Intercooler stuck?

Hello everyone,

A few days ago, I crashed my Golf into a guardrail, which caused the fender and bumper to become 'deformed' . Yesterday, I removed the bumper and discovered that one of the mounting points for the license plate holder had broken off. Now there is a hole that is approximately 1.5 cm long and 0.4 cm wide...

<Addendum>
The hole is in the plastic, not in the aluminum!
</Nachtag>

What should I do? Should I buy a new one, or look for a used one on eBay? Or should I try to glue it back together? If so, with what? Two-component adhesive, or would it be better to screw a patch onto it?

I hope someone knows the answer...

polcor

What kind of golf is it?

Now don't say it's a TDI .

Although, "Leitplanke" sounds like G4 because it has the LLK (left lane marker) on the left.

(Nonsense, the G4 is on the right, the G3 is on the left - I mixed up the directions.)

I've already glued a few things onto the car, using "UHU permanent 300" and some fiberglass resin.

While it takes a very long time to dry and tends to run quite a bit, the product adheres very, very well.

I'm not very familiar with the G4, but on the G3, the intercooler pipes are only connected to the intercooler and the turbo – so it should hold up pretty well.

m;

Yep, it's a Golf 3 TDI , and the intercooler is also located on the left side. Hmm, I wonder if the adhesive will withstand the pressure inside the cooler?

Fiber optics would still be a good option, I hope I can find something quickly.

I guess I'll have to improvise a way to reattach this thing myself, as it probably flew off right after the crash. Maybe I can use some tape to hold it in place, since the actual bracket is located at the bottom.

polcor

Also Jungs, will Euch ja nicht von der Philosophie abhalten, aber der Golf4 hat den LLK auf der Beifahrerseite. Definitely.
To the left, you'll only find the double fan and the temperature sensor for the MFA/Climatronic system.

So, you tore the plastic part at the top, and the top retaining loop is attached to it.

Do you still have all the parts needed to seal the radiator?

Then I would try gluing it (the new LLK costs 225 EUR).

I bought the fiberglass mesh at the hardware store (0.8 square meters for a few euros).

You'll only know if it works when you try it.

It's unfortunate that the motor primarily swings forward and backward in the direction of travel, and that this movement is intended to be transferred to the LLK (likely referring to a cooling system) via the LD tubes. The only real support is the upper mounting point with the rubber bushing (which, as you know, has broken off).

But for 225 euros, you can definitely do a little bit of tinkering, right?

m;

Sure.

I agree. For 225 euros, I'll give it a try; it can't get much worse. Besides, no one can see behind the bumper anyway, so I'm going to head to the hardware store now to see if I can find everything.

polcor

Hi,

I glued the sleeve for my LDA to the pressure tube near the original pressure sensor using 2K adhesive (Stabilit from Pattex, which is likely similar to Endfest 300). It's holding very securely and won't be blown out by the 1.3 bar pressure of the overpressure system.

So, it shouldn't fail because of that.

Best regards,

Jan.

Hi,
"Stabilit is polyester-based, UHU+ is epoxy-based. Often, either one will work. If you want to be absolutely sure, look for the material marking on the plastic, for example, "PP" for polypropylene (a bad example, difficult to bond). Then, search on Google for a suitable adhesive based on that material."
Uhu+ must be "durable" or "long-lasting," while the rest of the products stick less well.

Hello.

I completely agree with Christians - First of all, do a adhesion test, and don't forget: everything must be clean and roughened.
It might work.

1. Stability.
2. Body Repair Polyester.
3. UHU Endfest (Epoxy - Toxic and potentially carcinogenic!)

'Endfest' can also be processed while preheated, which will cause it to cure faster. If necessary, it can cure within 10 minutes, but it will then be as liquid as water. In any case, it must be tempered overnight at 50 degrees Celsius in the oven; only then is it fully cured.

If everything else fails, you can also use silicone sealant, and apply a generous amount along with fiberglass mesh! It works on everything! Thick silicone can take days to cure!
It looks particularly ugly, but whatever...

I wouldn't use fiberglass mat; I would use a (or several) thin sheets of fiberglass.
It's stiff and not very flexible.

You can find fiber mats at the hobby shop!

Good luck.

Deleted upon request.

Hello everyone,

I've been under a lot of exam stress lately, but I still owe you all an explanation of how things went.

So, I went to the hardware store and got some fiber optic cable and Uhu Endfest 300 glue, and then I immediately got to work. It was quite a messy job, but here's how it went...

Since the mounting tab broke off during the accident, I had to find another solution. I tried to create a 'patch' made of fiberglass, which sits over the hole and seals it as well as possible. The purpose of this was to prevent the adhesive from running into the radiator.
I worked in several layers to allow the adhesive to dry. Then, on the packaging, I found the note that the 300 kg/cm² strength is only achieved when it cures at a temperature of 180°C. 180°C is no problem, what's the point of having ovens if not? But can the radiator handle that? It's better not to rely on that; 120°C should probably be enough. So, oven on to 120°C, and let's do this.
BUT they should have mentioned that the adhesive, even if it's already partially dried, becomes liquid at this temperature, and only solidifies after the liquid phase. It becomes so solid that I had to break the adhesive out of the oven with a hammer and chisel.

'I then used a hairdryer to harden the glue, which allowed me to control the result much better. After sealing the hole, I applied a second layer of fiberglass over it and filled it with glue again. Since the glue wouldn't run this time, I tried baking it again in the oven, and this time it worked...'

Here's the finished result, and it's already covered 2000 km.

http://www.polcor.de/Bilder/LLK.JPG

Best regards,

polcor

Hi,

I think I'm speaking for everyone when I say: Thank you for the feedback!

Best regards,

Jan.

Also, thank you for the feedback and the photo - you can see that you already had some practice the second time .

It was clear that it would become liquid, which is why I mentioned 50 degrees Celsius; that would have been sufficient over a longer period.

Well done.

Great, I'm glad that worked out.

With "endfest 300" and fiberglass, you can seal everything except relationships .

I just installed the usual Golf 3 front indicator assembly this weekend - it's holding up (so far).

But what exactly is this "maschdrahtzaun" thing?

I meant "tile" when I said "Flies," like this:

Yes, I know the non-woven fabric didn't go as planned, but since I was at my parents' place and the town only has a tiny hardware store, I had to use this masonry crack filler. It should hold... (at least for now).

Fortunately, the hole is right behind the headlight, so I can easily access it for 'maintenance' purposes...

polcor