Hydraulic Jack: Manual Operation & Use

Hi.

I still think my engine mount is too soft, and that's why the engine can vibrate quite a bit up front.

Is it possible to manually compress the rear (larger) hydraulic mount on a Quer-1Z to the point where the engine visibly lowers (1-2 cm)?

If I reach behind the timing belt and grasp the motor mount (with my left hand) in a way that also allows me to touch the axle housing, and then apply pressure, the motor visibly moves downwards.

I'm not saying I have particularly strong hands, but the 202 Nm of the 1Z (or the 235 Nm of the AFN/ASV, which have the same bearings) should be somewhat stronger.

I'm actually bothered by the fact that...
My car is quieter when it's cold (although the body is stiffer, the engine mounts are also harder).
udn
2. Neither the steering gear nor the hydraulic accumulators have the heat shields described in document AKTE.

And it's true that:
soft engine mounts -> engine can bounce around -> rattles the body -> drone.

m;

similar question:

When I turn my Passat AFN to the left, there's a very loud booming sound.
This is transferred to the body.
'When I remove the hallway, the booming sound disappears.'
If I now accelerate again while steering to the left (without engaging a gear), it makes the same booming noise as before!
Is this also the engine mount?
ps.
When starting and stopping the car, it shakes quite a bit, certainly more than other AFN models I'm familiar with.

Okay, so, I might not have a very powerful engine, but I can barely squeeze the engine mount together with both hands, and I would say that I'm not exactly weak, because I've always had a good breakfast throughout my life.

So, if you're ever looking for a comparable model, feel free to reach out again. Although, I have to mention that my car only has 30,000 km on the odometer, as the front end was completely replaced after a 'collision with a wall.'

After that, you can decide whether you should stop using only powdered feed or whether you should consider looking into your engine mounting.

Best regards, BigB.

Hello,

I might have some information that could be helpful regarding your problem.

When I had the opportunity to write my thesis at Boge, there were many discussions about these very problems. This was particularly pronounced in Opel, Renault, and VW vehicles, because the affected series were equipped with an engine mount from Conti. And when I talk about the engine mount, I'm referring to the rear hydraulic mount, which suffers the most. This mount bears the brunt of the stress because, when the car accelerates, the reaction torque rotates the engine via the drive shafts and transmission, causing the front mount to relax while the rear mount is compressed. Furthermore, this stress occurs at high temperatures, which doesn't necessarily extend the lifespan of the mount.
At that time, the warehouses of the competitors were affected, which meant that Boge was overwhelmed with many orders. Boge's bearings are generally much tighter, which usually slightly reduces comfort, but is ultimately safer in the long run. Many tests were conducted under various conditions, and it was clear that the thermal insulation plates were absolutely necessary. Most of the affected manufacturers then switched to Boge bearings. I haven't heard much more about the problem, as I was also working on a motor mount for a B...W X 5 (confidentiality until 2006).

Dieselmartin, with your hand, you should normally not be able to compress the bearing by more than 1-2 cm, at most 2-4 mm.
A simple method for checking the entire inventory would be as follows:

Start the engine => engage the handbrake => an assistant constantly pushes the engine from the front, towards the back => engage 3rd gear and gently play with the clutch under load => the engine is rotated even further backwards due to the reaction torque, so that if the bearings are broken or outdated, the engine will hit the body and make a corresponding booming noise. (Caution: don't overdo it!!!)

When installed, it's likely the only way to tell, unless the bearing is wet and the damage is immediately visible.

When replacing the storage tank, it's a good idea to also install insulation panels at the same time, as this will benefit your wallet in the long run.

Wow.

Georg, what a detailed answer, thank you.

Regarding the (suspected) defect of the rear hydraulic mount, it's also relevant that my flexible pipe already had noticeable play at 130,000 km (I had it replaced / including the catalytic converter ((
Because if the motor makes too many movements, the small 1Z flexible pipe will quickly wear out.
http://people.freenet.de/golf-schrauber/getriebe.jpg

AFN and AHU engines have a longer flex pipe with an additional support (NEID), which should also fit on the 1Z engine (but the workshop doesn't know these things and installed the short one again *GR* - I only realized it too late).

I'm going to test the game out at the campsite.

I also take photos, because there are impressions of the rubber on the surfaces above and below the rubber (it looks like the bearing is unintentionally pressing through).

@ BigB
I'm talking about the REAR bearing - if you damage that in a crash, your engine is completely ruined!

The front hydraulic mount isn't pushed, but pulled. This creates a "plop" sound every time you start the car – I've already replaced one in a 1985 Golf 2.

I'll be in touch again...

Ash on my head.

I'm just going to quickly wash my eyes and clean my glasses.

Sorry!

@ Big

It's not that bad .

We noticed it early enough, before any major damage occurred .

m;

Are you only talking about engines that are installed transversely here? Like in Golf 3, Seat Ibiza, or Polo?
Because it's never specified what kind of car we're talking about.

With the A4, everything feels unfamiliar to me.
And so far, I haven't seen a single defective engine mount.

So, in my signature, you have 2 Golf models with 2 engine options to choose from.

I had to replace the front hydraulic bearing on the 85 JP -> it made a "plop" sound when starting.

And regarding my quer-1Z, I suspect the rear one might be planning to retire.

m;

Meanwhile, I've replaced the small hydraulic accumulator located behind the transmission.

A heat shield has been installed on the turbocharger.

m;

Meanwhile, I have replaced the small hydraulic reservoir behind the transmission.
And - any changes?
I left off the small part on the transmission back then. When it gets warmer again,
I'll probably have to go back to using the machine anyway, and I might want to 'de-moisturize' something.

Best regards,
Rudi

[Translating...]

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You're right...
I had also read that article back then (it was a very long time ago ).
Let's see how it looks. Ploppen still isn't doing anything, and Hauptdröhner is probably the main culprit anyway.
Damn exhaust.

ignore

Best regards,
Rudi

[edit]o.T.: Did you manage to land the MSA15 safely again? [/edit]

Hello everyone,

'Staffarn wrote that he had never seen a faulty hydraulic lifter on an A4. I have. My A4 AFN sometimes, especially at high outside temperatures and after city driving, experienced extreme resonance and shaking at idle. After a brief acceleration, it was usually okay again. After replacing the hydraulic lifters about two years ago, this has never happened again. The mileage was approximately 240,000 km.'

Regards,
Martha.

I just replaced a leaking hydraulic bearing (front-right) on my 4B. However, I later realized that the entire engine-transmission unit was under tension. Perhaps that was the cause.