ASZ and clutch worn out after only 28,000 km?

'Since yesterday, when accelerating in higher gears in my Ibiza ASZ, the clutch has been slipping, even though the car is usually driven very carefully.' Just for comparison: The clutch in our heavily used G4 1.6 has already lasted 130,000 km.
Is it really just my Speedbuster tuning box that's causing this?
I simply can't imagine that it's right for a clutch to fail after less than 30,000 kilometers, unless it's in a driving school car.

Has anyone else experienced a similar issue, and does anyone know what the warranty policy is for clutches with VAG (Volkswagen Group) vehicles?

Hi,

According to unconfirmed rumors, the clutches can handle 350 Nm (there are several threads discussing this). The ASZ engine normally produces 310 Nm, and most often, the actual output is higher. With Box, you're likely to be in the 350-400 range, and if you occasionally use that power, it will definitely affect the wear and tear.

You're unlikely to receive any leniency from them, except perhaps from the boxing equipment manufacturer. VW can't be blamed for the fact that you're overstressing the clutch beyond its intended limits.

The comparison to a 1.6-liter gasoline engine is irrelevant; check how much torque it has – it's probably under 150 Nm.

Best regards,

Jan.

Yes, you've already given the answer yourself. Of course, it's probably due to the tuning; maybe the new part wasn't the best quality. But I've also rarely heard of driving school cars needing a new clutch at 30,000 km.
You could try asking for a discount, especially if the car is relatively new. I can imagine that you won't get very far with that, as Jan already mentioned.

PS: The clutch in your tuned engine doesn't suffer significantly more wear during initial acceleration compared to a stock engine. However, when the torque curve peaks at higher RPMs, the clutch experiences considerable forces. It's likely the weakest component in the system. And if you frequently use the "boost" function, it will tend to cause the parts to slip slightly, which you might not notice, but this relative movement between the parts will quickly lead to excessive wear.
If it's truly broken and not just a faulty seal that's leaking oil, then I wouldn't install another original part. Instead, I'd look for aftermarket options. But first, check to see if there's any oil leakage. I know it's a lot of work, but the transmission has to be removed anyway, and it might just be a defective seal, which shouldn't happen with such a low power output. If that's the case, it might be possible to get it fixed under warranty or a similar arrangement.

There are studies in gearbox development that attempt to simulate the function of a dual-mass flywheel (DMF) using a continuously slipping clutch. A controlled clutch engagement is intended to prevent 100% grip. Studies have shown that only insignificant wear occurs with small differences in rotational speed.

Short clutch theory:
When starting: The only factor that determines how much torque the clutch transmits is the pressure applied (pedal position), assuming the engine has the requested torque available. So, if you're holding a car on a hill using the clutch, just enough to prevent it from rolling forward or backward, and you change the engine speed, nothing will change.
But one thing does change: the temperature in the clutch. This means wear and tear. High engagement speeds are of no benefit to the clutch, only causing wear. So, always engage the clutch at the lowest possible RPM. You can therefore achieve extremely different levels of wear with the same clutch engagement time and the same output torque. With my AFN, I engage the clutch at idle speed. That's almost a 1000 rpm difference in speed.
If the clutch slips due to the tuning, resulting in a speed of 30 rpm, it won't even get properly hot.

Of course, wear and tear can sometimes be caused by modifications or tuning. But small relative rotational speeds are not directly fatal!

Please check very carefully to make sure all the sealing rings are tight. Perhaps you may have had a fuel spill in the engine compartment at some point. For example, damage caused by RME (biodiesel). Often, clutches fail not only due to classic wear and tear, but also due to lubricants.

Before you replace them: Really push them hard. Hold the car at 3000 rpm on a slight incline for about 5 seconds. This should cause the lubricants in the top layer to carbonize. Then, see if they still slip. Most likely, the slipping will reappear. Then, let them grind again... It's sad, but she was already finished anyway...

I once drove it for 5000 km, and then it started having problems again. I experienced an RME (Rechtliche Mehrheit Erklärung) issue...

...or the crankshaft seal is leaking oil... -> Check if there's any oil leakage around the bottom of the clutch bell.

Best regards, Rainer.

The ASZ also uses the BQ350 or MQ350.
...it is not specified for anything more... End.

No one can afford to ignore an additional safety factor greater than 1 anymore.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'cu smith2'

Quote:

If, due to the tuning, the clutch slips at a speed of 30 rpm, then it will not even get properly hot.

Isn't it also true that static friction only accounts for a fraction of the frictional force? In other words, once it starts to slip, it really slips! That's why I doubt that the 30 rpm difference will be maintained. And I also doubt that, with that much pressure, it won't get hot at 30 rpm.

Well, I went to the friendly repair shop today, and you won't believe it, but since the master technician was inside, nothing has been moving. So, I looked up from below the stage – and wouldn't you know it, nothing is oily either. They probably think I'm crazy now.

What should I do now? Should I keep driving? If the error cannot be located or fixed, then I have the guarantee that it will reappear.

If the clutch has slipped that noticeably, it will happen again, definitely and quickly.
Because, in general, slipping does not extend their lifespan.

If you had gone to the dealer without your 'tuning,' the result would have been predictable.
If you were there with 'Tuning,' then this is once again the demo effect.

'Really work that clutch hard! I mean it. Have him take a quick look. Let him ride along – for at least half an hour. Try to bring the clutch up to temperature by using frequent 'slipping' downshifts and large differences in engine speed. Always operate within the maximum [rpm/speed].' Torque range!
That doesn't work on stage in the AH!

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'cu smith2'

Keep going! What could possibly happen? I wouldn't want to put unnecessary strain on the clutch if it's already worn out!!! That would just cause unnecessary wear and tear. I would only heat it up if it was already slipping, in order to burn off any foreign substances.

Or are you worried about the warranty? No, right? Definitely not when it comes to tuning. It doesn't matter how hard you push it to avoid the workshop master... You don't have to prove anything to him.

Hi,

'I'm familiar with the problem. In February, I also bought an Ibiza with 40,000 km on the odometer. However, it had a chip tuning modification. The dealer sold it to me with the chip installed, and it's all officially registered. The slipping occurred in my car whenever it was really cold. You could clearly see the tachometer needle jump from 2000 to 4000 RPM. I also went to the dealer, but that was in the afternoon, so it was warmer. He couldn't detect anything then. Then I drove there in the morning, and, sure enough, he was able to reproduce the problem. My advantage was that I bought the car including the tuning. As a result, I got a new clutch and a new flywheel from Seat at their expense.' And if my clutch wears out again after 40,000 miles, I will go back to the dealer because I still have a warranty.

According to the chip manufacturer, it now has 117 kW and 381 Nm of torque.

Let's see how long this clutch lasts .

Hello.
I've also been experiencing this problem since it got really cold.
When I press the accelerator pedal firmly in higher gears, everything starts to hum.
Sometimes the car starts to make a clunking noise, and it feels like something is rattling around.
My Golf has now covered 22,000 km, and it started "chipping" (modifying the engine) after 19,000 km. It now has 164 horsepower and 386 Nm of torque.
ULF's DZR.
Could it be the clutch that's making that rumbling noise for a short time?

Okay, you have to admit that the description is quite general. If I give it a lot of gas at low RPM, it doesn't sound great, and a distinct humming frequency can be heard. Everything is original in my ASZ, and I plan to keep it that way. If the clutch is slipping, you can observe it quite accurately with the tachometer. If it happens, quickly ease off the gas, and the tachometer needle should drop (more than would be expected from the decrease in speed). That indicates clutch slippage. You can really tell quite clearly when the clutch is slipping.

P.S.: I think that "high torque at low RPM" shouldn't be used too often, especially with chipped engines, as I imagine it could significantly reduce their lifespan.

Nothing's going to change. I've already noticed that.

It rumbles and sputters briefly. I've read about that humming frequency before in a different context; it probably has something to do with the (higher) boost pressures!


Regards,
Climate96.