VW Golf 3 TDI: Cold Start Problems?

HI,
'For the past three weeks, I've been having a problem where my car needs to be cranked for about 4 seconds (with the accelerator pedal pressed) before it starts when the engine is cold (i.e., at ambient temperature), and then another 4 seconds for all the cylinders to run smoothly (it sputters slightly... or however you would describe that).'
Then everything is okay, and I have full power. And on a second start (if it's warmed up), it acts like nothing happened and starts right up like a charm.
Before I installed the new glow plugs, I had to wait longer (I was hoping that the new glow plugs would give me the desired result ) .
The only thing that had been done to the car just before this problem occurred was replacing the exhaust system (which was necessary after almost 260,000 miles).

I hope you can help me!
Thank you!!

Regards,
Dave.

Don't be mad, Dave.

But the search function is your best friend and advisor.

Certainly someone will help you; it's a common problem and has been addressed many times before.

Es kann ganze Menge zu deinem Problem beitragen, z. B:

Glow plug, temperature sensor, injectors, EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation), air bubbles in the line, injection timing, compression, starter motor, etc.
Try to familiarize yourself with the problem first. Then, tell us what you have already checked and replaced, and provide us with more information (engine code, year of manufacture, etc.).

Welcome to the forum!

Best regards, Georg.

I'm having trouble finding anything that really fits my situation.
I'm not an expert, but I'll try to express myself as precisely as possible.

MKB? I don't know.
Manufactured in 1995.

Probably the same car as mine: a Volkswagen Golf III 1.9 TDI (AHU) --> could it be?

Unfortunately, I don't have a diagnostic tool. I saw that you can buy one for around 60 euros, but I don't need it every day.
So, as I said, since the new spark plugs were installed, it starts quickly, but then it shakes for about 4 seconds (and smokes heavily at that moment) --> after that, everything is okay.

So, as I said, it started happening after the exhaust system was replaced, although of course I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
This only happens when the engine is cold!

Perhaps you can help me so that I can tell you everything you need to know.

Thank you!!
Dave.

I can at least help you find the MKV file.
Three options:

1. Stickers on the plastic timing belt cover.
2. Sticker inside the trunk compartment with all type data.
3. The same sticker should be placed in the service booklet.

But please try using the forum search function, as this problem has been discussed many times before, and a fresh start would likely be helpful for you. However, it's frustrating for everyone else when the same questions are asked repeatedly. Please take Georg's advice, check for known issues, and if you can rule those out, then we can continue the discussion here.

Okay, then I'll search again *glückauf*.

Hello Dave,

Given that it's a 1995 vehicle, it's likely to be a 1Z engine, which is the predecessor to the AHU, especially if it has 90 horsepower.

I doubt the problem is related to the exhaust replacement; unless something was damaged in the engine compartment during the work.

Did you do everything correctly when changing the spark plugs? Is power reaching each plug?
Normally, a healthy TDI engine should start even in cold weather without preheating, although it might run a bit rough initially.

Even if the glow plug system is working correctly, a sputtering start and failure to run smoothly on all cylinders could be due to a very late static injection timing, which is possible given your vehicle's 260,000 km mileage and the fact that it's the third engine replacement with 80,000 km.
Another possible and often correct cause is air trapped in the fuel line after it has been sitting for a long time (e.g., overnight). To check this, you should observe the transparent fuel line between the diesel filter and the pump while an assistant starts the engine.

You should be able to find and locate all of this information yourself; our forum (with articles and posts) is full of such solutions and possible causes.

Best regards, Georg.


P.S.:
Have your engine's fault memory read and have the injection timing checked.
If you don't want to invest in a diagnostic adapter, you have to take your car to the workshop. However, after just a few visits to the workshop, a diagnostic adapter would pay for itself; it's definitely worth considering.

The 1995 TDI is a 1Z.

The AFN arrived in early 1996, and the AHU didn't arrive until the summer of 1996.

Is the issue related to the start of spraying or the condition of the nozzles?

It's very easy to have the smoke emissions tested (at VW), and injectors are likely not in the best condition after 280,000 km anyway.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Hello,

Please check the dynamic start-up function (see search function: "White smoke"). Also, please try searching for "crankshaft bolt"! Good luck.

Thanks in advance for all your helpful tips.

I had the glow plugs replaced at Bosch, but it still starts without pre-heating (it only needs to crank for up to 4 seconds). After that, it stutters for about 4 seconds, and then everything is fine.

The idea about the diagnostic adapter is a super idea, but my wife broke my laptop .

Then I probably need to take it to a workshop that can read the error codes and provide the fuel injection timing .

The third timing belt is installed.

What I still do myself right now:
-I'll check later to see if I can get the MKB out!
-and because of the air in the diesel flow.

Sure, no problem!

Hi,
Okay, so MKB is: 1Z.
Yesterday, I had the diesel filter replaced with a new one that includes a return valve, and they also read the error codes. The code indicated an 'implausible signal' at the generator terminal for the diesel filter, which is a sporadic error... but I think I've actually had this problem for a while now.
This morning, it didn't start much better either; it started a little, but not by much.

Do you think it's related to the fuel injection system?
I think I'll check again later today or tomorrow to see if there's still any fuel left in the fuel system.

Well, it was suspected that it was a 1Z.
I think you should follow Martin's advice.

Well, the pre-glow is called "pre-glow" because it should happen before the engine starts. Let it glow for a few seconds, and then it usually starts without any misfires.

Okay, I'll look into those nozzles... but only after I'm no longer unemployed... This money is terrible.

As I said, the initial injection check should even be free of charge.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

If the organ's operating time and the duration of each cycle are gradually increasing, then there is likely a problem with the crankshaft gear. They often wear out; in some cases, a screw with a strength rating of 10 was used instead of the required 12.
Usually, the only thing that helps is gluing a new screw in place. Volkswagen charges around 300 euros for this repair...

I had the same problem!

When it was cold, my car, a Volkswagen Golf 3 TDI with 90 horsepower, manufactured in 1994, started very poorly (starter motor).
(and kept spinning endlessly). Only after a few seconds (sometimes several), would it stop.
Smoke came out of the exhaust pipe, and then it didn't run smoothly for several seconds.
then it ran normally.

I then had all the glow plugs replaced at the workshop, which is something that's often done with this type of problem.
It was supposed to be the standard, but it was free of charge.

Whether the engine was warm or the outside temperature was warm, it started without any problems.
After some measurements, I discovered that there were no...
There was tension as the preheating process began.

Solution at my place:
In the fuse box located under the steering wheel, you can see all sorts of fuses.
There is a 50A fuse hidden in the upper right corner, behind relay 21 (it's not easily visible).
actually, only if you detach the fuse box from its mounting and then...
bisschen dreht). This one was broken.
The whole thing had also quite confused me, as it was located in the engine compartment, below the center.
both windshield wipers, and the glow plug control unit is located there as well.
Fuse is.

Perhaps this will help you.

Das ganze hatte mich auch ziemlich verwirrt, da ja im Motorraum unterhalb der Mitte
beider Scheibenwischer, wo auch das Steuergerät zum Vorglühen ist eh noch eine
Sicherung ist.

That's only for the glow plug heater.


I once had all the glow plugs replaced at the workshop, which is something that can be done for this type of problem.
The standard was, but it was for free.

Well, I'd say that's a great workshop. Just replacing parts without checking for any underlying issues beforehand – fantastic.

I would never go back there again. Troubleshooting should be done differently.

HI,
'For the past three weeks, I've been having a problem where my car needs to crank for about 4 seconds (with the accelerator pedal pressed) before it starts when the engine is cold (i.e., at ambient temperature), and then another 4 seconds for all the cylinders to run smoothly (it sputters slightly... or whatever you want to call it).'
Then everything is okay, and I have full power, and on a second start (if it's then warmed up), it acts like nothing happened and starts up like a '1'.

It was the same with mine.
And what? Everyone gets three chances to guess.
Okay!
KW screw loose, KW wheel detached/broken off.