How long does a timing belt actually last?

Hello,

Drive a GIV TDI PD with 74kw, manufactured in 2002.

Ride Profile:

Careful warm-up without full load with engine speeds <1800/min.

Daily 100km to the factory (50km each way), with 90-95% on the highway at speeds <1900-2000/min. The remaining 5-10% is in the city at the same speeds. The car has rarely experienced high speeds.
The car has the first brake pads, and they seem to be working okay so far.

Mileage approximately 65,000 km.

All inspections have been completed on time so far.

ZR Replacement at 90,000 km? What else supports it, besides the checkbook?

Bitte keine 'nach 90tkm muss ZR gewechselt werden, denn sonst hat man gleich einen Motorschaden bei 90001km' oder 'Erst Auto kaufen und jetzt nicht warten wollen' oder ähnliche Diskussionen.

What can happen to the engine due to a ZR crack is well-known.

How much reserve does the ZR have empirically, when it reaches 90,000 km? Does anyone know more about this?

Greetings

RT

Hello RT,

I am not aware of any empirical studies on durability. However, if we are already talking about statistics, I also assume that 90,000 km is certainly the lower limit (for safety reasons). As for how much the interval should be extended, I also don't know. For my part, I have a similar driving profile, but there are sometimes "fast" stages. Since the belt's lifespan is limited by the stresses caused by driving and also by the climate changes (hot and cold), it is difficult to make a prediction. This is certainly also dangerous. I have so far driven less than 50,000 km, and I occasionally check the belt (i.e., really rarely, about 9 times). I check the tension and visually inspect it. Unfortunately, the water pump is also driven, and the quality of the belt cannot be fully assessed from above.

My plan is to replace the timing belt, water pump, and possibly the tensioner, even if the car still looks good at 90,000 km, because I wouldn't be able to forgive myself if it broke down at 96,000 km.

So, weder ein Rat noch eine Empfehlung für dich, sondern meine Perspektive. Okay, here's the translation, keeping all exactly as they are:

Da musst du selber durch!!!

For example, I had a leadership role after ~60,000 miles, and when it started to rattle, I had to act quickly before the belt broke. Just as a thought.

RT,

How long do you want to keep driving the car?

If you also experience the second service interval in your hands, then you will have saved 77 euros per 10,000 km of mileage (assuming service costs of 700 euros).

Since you are already aware of the consequences of the belt failure: A new motor costs > 5 k€. If you believe that 77 euros is a reasonable ratio to the risk of 5k€, then confidently extend the timeframe ...

I always change the oil at 100,000 km!

There, the timing belts still look almost new. I now have over 280,000 km on it. This time, I'll be changing it earlier because I need to re-adjust the diesel pump, and then I'll do everything at once.

I mean, the most important thing is to really inspect the belts and guide/drive rollers during every service, and also to listen carefully for any unusual noises, and to immediately investigate the cause if you hear anything unusual.
My last belt looked like new even after 90,000 km, but I won't be replacing it just yet. By doing the belt replacement yourself, you only save on partial material costs, and it doesn't necessarily prevent the belt from breaking.

Hello, Rainer

Also, please include this here:

http://www.contitech.de/ct/contitech/themen/kommunikation/presse/texte/040909e_m_automechanika_d.doc

Bye for now

So, ich weiß nur, dass diese neuen Riemen für die 4-Zylinder TDI-Motoren geeignet sind.
For VAG engines, the recommended interval is 120,000 km.
I think your PD motor will also manage. However, no one can guarantee that it will actually work.
It would be too risky for me, and I would have to constantly drive with someone who is sober.

The timing belts themselves are usually not the problem.
Often, the engine fails because the guide, tension, and steering rollers (bearings) seize up, and as a direct result, the ZR.
And that's something no one can predict!
Therefore, it is important: Use original parts, preferably have them renewed by a professional with a warranty.
My opinion: Cheaply replacing the ZR engine won't work, it's more of a risk increase! Then, it's better to keep the old one, at least it's proven.

Hello,

Therefore, it is advisable to adhere to the prescribed replacement intervals.
1000 km more to drive doesn't actually cause any problems. But where is the point if you still want to drive the car for a while?
Of course, it won't last at 90,001 km. The 100,000 km will likely also be inherited.
But how long it lasts also depends on many other factors. For example, whether the car is always parked outdoors, how much sun exposure it gets, etc. All these factors affect the lifespan of the material. However, it is very difficult, if not impossible, to estimate this.

Only the designer/engineer of the manufacturer knows exactly how much safety the belts provide.

One should plan and implement the change already at the specified 90,000.

I drive myself every day, 260km. The car is definitely overdue because I don't have time.
If I need to postpone the maintenance by a week, then 1300 km is definitely too much.

Thank you for your opinions.

Greetings

RT

Hello,

you would need to ask how long my timing belt lasts.

You certainly wouldn't be the only one who experiences this: the belt holds up what it promises, while the pulleys or tension/guide rollers give way, leading to a fatal engine damage.

If you contact your trusted VW dealer, you will find that they usually need to perform an online check for different belt intervals, as these are constantly being updated. Due to complaints or resulting engine damage!

Similarly, the timing belt division on the crankshaft in PD engines is not uniform , and the teeth are 'further apart' at the beginning of compression because the timing belt stretches here, and it would not properly engage if the teeth were at a normal spacing!!
That's all there is to say about the stress!

'Just replacing the timing belt and leaving the water pump or pulleys in place is a mistake. The bearings of these components have been running for 90,000 km with a certain level of stress, and now the full stress is being applied again.' If you don't believe me, try it yourself and please let me know how many kilometers you were able to cover and what it cost you.

Conclusion: Maintain the belt interval (possibly inquire with the dealer, as it may also be reduced). Remove all rolls and the pump and replace with the original part – this will only cost a few extra euros, if anything!

I have 230,000 km on the first water pump...
bad??

Hello,

I replaced the first timing belt in my 1Z at 180,000 km. The tensioner remained in place. I only replaced the battery.
But only out of ignorance. I wouldn't do that anymore either.
The water pump is still the first. So, jetzt sind 330.000 km gefahren, aber es wird bei der nächsten Wartung ersetzt.

@AfnFahrer:
@golf3schrauber:

At 1Z and AFN, the water pump is not from the ZR,

...but driven by V-belt!

Therefore, no pump replacement is necessary during the ZR change!

Hello Georg - TDI

So, bei meinem AFN (97er A4) wird die Wasserpumpe durch den Zahnriemen angetrieben. Genauer gesagt, die Wasserpumpe wird von der Rückseite des Zahnriemens angetrieben, im Gegensatz zu den VAG-5-Zylindern (wie z.B. NF), bei denen die Wasserpumpe gleichzeitig durch den Zahnriemen gespannt wurde.

Greetings
Thomas