TDI PD Engine: Power or Just Noise?

*d contact the webmaster again *

Hey everyone who loves diesels!

I bought a new VW Golf 4 about two months ago with a 96kW TDI-PD engine.
machine-made!
But now a few questions are troubling me:
- From what mileage is this part fully resistant to full throttle operation?
- After driving approximately 2500 kilometers, I also got a chip installed.
Let it be suspended by an org.bosch-tuner -> meanwhile, I have...
Another 6000 km on the odometer, and plenty of power, but my little [car/bike/etc.].
The heating oil-powered Ferrari is extremely powerful!!! (Only when given full throttle for a few seconds!)
What happened? Is it harmful to drive excessively at full throttle?
Is there anything I can do about this without having to undo something else? Or is it not necessary for me to do anything?
If the Russian doesn't bother me, am I breaking something by doing that?
Interestingly, it doesn't consume more power; in fact, it uses less!
According to the manufacturer's specifications, the average fuel consumption at low speeds is between 4.7 and 5.5 liters per 100 kilometers.
Fuel consumption: X liters per 100 km.
'Furthermore, I'm interested in knowing the top speed of a similarly powerful machine.'
'Without a chip, it runs at full throttle! Does anyone have some numbers for me?'

Sure, here's the translation:

'Thanks in advance!'
wetec

Is this too pointless, or why can't someone share their experiences with breaking in a new car and its Russian development?
'...I just want to be able to sleep peacefully again...'

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hi wetec,"

You're being impatient...

Since I don't know the specific PD, I can only give you a general answer /viewtopic.php?t=820.

"I'm sorry, I can't tell you more right now (just wait until tonight; most people tend to be online in the evenings)."

Okay, so I have a car with an ALH engine and 90 horsepower, and it runs at a real-world speed of 178 km/h (approximately 110 mph) in automatic mode without any tuning or modifications.
He experienced his first full-throttle experience on the highway at approximately 2500 kilometers (or miles).

but to answer your second post: the question is probably not trivial, but it's Tuesday and almost everyone is working. within just under 4 hours, you shouldn't expect any answers in a forum, especially if it's in the middle of the workday .

patience...

CU Gremlin.

Hello Wetec,

My Golf 4 with a 96 kW engine initially reached 205 km/h (1300 km) with 195 tires. After about 5000 km, it improved, and with a significant amount of acceleration (around 10 km), it reached 218 km/h. In the slipstream of a Mercedes E-Class, it even managed to reach almost 230 km/h. Going downhill, it also reached 230 km/h. With my 225 tires on 7.5-inch rims with an offset of 35, it runs at approximately 210-212 km/h. If it's brought up to 220 km/h going uphill, it maintains a speed of around 218 km/h.

Are you sure you have a chip and not a tuning box? With a proper, high-quality chip, the fuel consumption will be displayed accurately. A tuning box usually shows a lower value than the actual consumption. I experienced this with my G3 AFN as well; with a tuning box, the fuel consumption on the highway at normal speeds was 2.7 liters per 100 km.

It shouldn't produce excessive black smoke; if it does, request further adjustments.

Best regards,

Hi!

I have an Audi A6 Avant TDI with 96 kW (engine code 'AWX'), and it currently has 7,600 km on the odometer (and of course, it hasn't been tuned).

Läuft relativ schnell lt. Tacho 220, es waren auch schon mal knapp 235 (immer lt. Tacho, nicht lt. Climate.

Best regards, D.

Hello.


Okay, if I may summarize some of the threads here: Rust is essentially a result of fuel combustion in an environment with insufficient oxygen.

Or what?

However, the question arises: where does the boost pressure come from? When you press the accelerator, the amount of fuel injected must first be increased, which in turn increases the volume of exhaust gases that drive the turbine.

Or what?

On the other hand, stock parts rarely show any tuning modifications, while tuned parts almost always do. There was also a post mentioning that 'russen' parts only appear to be modified but aren't actually tuned.


'Everyone just has to do what they like, I guess. He probably doesn't understand.'

or??

Regards,

Heinz.

Hello,

wetec wrote:

Is that too pointless, or why can't someone share their experiences with breaking in the engine and Russian development with me!? ...I just want to be able to sleep peacefully again...

This forum is a free service. Do you expect people to be sitting here during regular working hours, waiting for you to post something?
Please be a little more patient.

Becker, Heinz wrote:

So, if I may summarize some of the threads here. Rust is actually a result of the combustion of fuel under conditions of oxygen deficiency.

That's correct; possible causes could also include poor fuel atomization or an incorrect injection timing.

Becker, Heinz wrote:

However, the question also arises: where does the boost pressure come from? When you press the accelerator, the amount of fuel must first be increased, which in turn increases the amount of exhaust gases that drive the turbine.

Also, this is also correct, but there shouldn't be much soot produced as long as the turbocharger is working properly and all air and exhaust lines are free of leaks.

Becker, Heinz wrote:

On the other hand, stock parts rarely cause issues, while tuned parts almost always do, and there was even a post suggesting that "russen" parts only misalign things, not actually tune them.

Yes, even a lot. However, an engine that is tuned and suffering from a lack of air will still produce more soot than an untuned engine, for example, due to a stuck EGR valve.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,

Please include this summary and the author "Heinz Becker" in the problem-solving database. Questions like these are, and have been, asked thousands of times. The paragraph about black smoke could also be supplemented (possibly).

Oops.
Wow, I've really stirred up a lot of dust with that!
Sorry, you're right about the working hours and all that. I'm just sitting here and wanted to check if I'm doing something wrong or damaging anything.

'So, according to the speedometer, mine (with 6000 km on the odometer) runs at 230 km/h without any problems, whether it's a slight incline or a straight stretch! I currently have 215/45/17 tires mounted... so it seems to be performing well compared to what I hear from others!'

The strong vibration only occurs when I briefly press the accelerator fully, and the vehicle suddenly pushes forward with considerable force at 2000 RPM. At 2300 RPM, the vibration disappears, and it continues to accelerate normally.

I actually had the engine control unit (ECU) tuned professionally -> no tuning box!

Do I now have to worry that I'm damaging or have damaged something, just because it makes a loud noise when I accelerate suddenly?
If I accelerate slowly and gradually, nothing happens.

Thank you again.
And I will practice being patient!

See you tonight!

Sorry.
I forgot about the consumption aspect.

So, if I really only drive normally and gently, it actually only consumes 4.7 to 5.5 liters per 100 km!
I've been calculating that with every fill-up.
He is indeed economical... and he also runs great at high speeds!
(Or are 230 km/h, according to the speedometer, not that much for a car with only 130 horsepower?)

You also need to factor in that the speedometer reading will be affected by approximately 215/45 tires, as they cover less ground per revolution than the standard tire size. The rolling circumference of these tires is smaller.
'Still, 230 is a good number; I'd guess that with the original tire size, it would be around 225. It can't really go much higher because the engine runs out of air at high RPMs.'

Sure.
You're right about the tires! If my calculations are correct, that's exactly 226.63 km/h (approximately 140.7 mph) with the standard tires!

So, nothing's broken, right?

What about changing the transmission?

I think I may have read something about this before.

If you only have the 6th gear changed during a remapping process, so that the engine runs at 240 km/h according to the speedometer at 4000 RPM!
What would happen if you didn't use this feature all the time, but only for a short period?
Does this line of reasoning actually work?
I know that the PD (generally a diesel engine) is running out of air at the top.
'But a tuned engine should have performance reserves, and even with the longer 6-speed gearbox, it should still be able to rev up to 4000 RPM – resulting in higher top speed!!!'

Hi,

Is he shifting into the last gear?
If not, then air resistance will limit your desire for a higher top speed, and a longer final gear ratio will actually result in *less* top speed!
Calculate how much power your car needs to overcome air resistance at its top speed (using the Ulsher drag equation).

I also wondered if it would have enough power!

but,
The engine revs up quickly to 4000 RPM in 6th gear.
He stays there for almost the entire time! I thought it might be related to the port injection system, which seems to lose a lot of power after 4000 RPM.

Therefore, change the gears to optimize power and torque up to 4000 RPM.
utilize.

My brother's 90 hp TDI engine obviously revs up to 4500 (and higher), but a common-rail diesel shouldn't be able to do that either, especially if the power is already delivered before 4000 rpm!

That's why I'm asking you.
Will the performance after chipping be sufficient to achieve a higher top speed?

I am also aware that a diesel engine is not known for its top speed.
but maybe we can make something out of it ...
IF YOU SAY THERE'S NOTHING REALLY RISKY INVOLVED (OTHER THAN THE MONEY), THEN I'LL HAVE ONE MADE FOR ME.