OM 605.960 2,5 L 5 Zylinder Turbo 20 Ventiler marinesieren | Posts 112+

Thermodynamically, a cooled turbine housing is not ideal. Heat, and thus usable exhaust energy, is lost. Even if it can be dissipated well in the water. That's why V6 TDI engines even have double-walled exhaust manifolds. The purpose of the cooling in a boat is primarily fire protection, not to extend the lifespan of the turbocharger.

christians wrote:

Thermodynamically, a cooled turbine housing is not exactly ideal. Heat, and thus usable exhaust energy, is lost. Even if it can be dissipated well in the water. That's why V6-TDI engines even have double-walled exhaust manifolds. The purpose of the cooling in the boat is primarily fire protection, not to extend the lifespan of the turbocharger.

Hello Christian,
That was also my first option.
The exhaust manifold should be water-cooled.
I was advised against it due to thermodynamic losses.
I would actually prefer to build the exhaust manifold with water cooling.
Can these losses be expressed as percentages?
I think I can live with 5-10%.

wolfgang b. wrote:

christians wrote: Thermodynamically, a cooled turbine housing is not exactly ideal. Heat, and thus usable exhaust energy, is lost. Even if it can be dissipated well in the water. That's why V6 TDI engines even have double-walled exhaust manifolds. The purpose of the cooling in the boat is primarily fire protection, not to extend the lifespan of the turbocharger. Hello Christian, That was also my first option. The exhaust manifold should be water-cooled. I was advised against it due to thermodynamic losses. I would actually prefer to build the exhaust manifold with water cooling. Can these losses be expressed as percentages? Let's talk about 5-10%, I think I can live with that.

Hello Wolfgang,
Why don't you use existing marine conversion kits? The Mercedes engine has already been successfully converted for marine use by several suppliers. Take a look at how they have done it and simply replicate that (with some individual optimizations).
Why do you want to reinvent the wheel?

I think you're worrying too much.
Install and carefully test it out. Learn by doing.

tdi on water wrote:

Hello Wolfgang, Why don't you use existing marine conversion kits? The Mercedes engine has already been successfully converted for marine use by several providers. Take a look at how they did it and simply replicate that (with some individual optimizations). Why do you want to reinvent the wheel? I think you're worrying too much. Install and carefully test it. Learning by doing.

I think we've talked about this before.
I couldn't find anything about the 4-valve engine.
For the two-stroke engine, everything is there, but the cylinder head is completely different.
I couldn't find a water-cooled exhaust manifold.

wolfgang b. wrote:

For the two-stroke engine, everything is there, but the cylinder head is completely different. I haven't found a water-cooled exhaust manifold.

Then take a look at the design of the two-valve version and use it as inspiration when recreating it, adapting it for your engine.
Your photos of the ladder, clearly demonstrate that you have experience working with metal, including stainless steel.
Or would you prefer to buy a pre-built system and just add your own components?

As a helpful guide:
http://www.umruestteile.de/umruestteile.html

Or http://www.dmv-bootsdiesel.de/ The company is located in Rastede (roughly in the direction of Wilhelmshaven).
A visit is definitely worthwhile for you; however, please allow a little more time during your visit. The manager can be very detailed in his explanations, but he will certainly be able to help you.
It's all just a matter of price. And the story has a positive ending.
Don't let yourself be ripped off.

tdi on water wrote:

wolfgang b. wrote: For the two-stroke engine, everything is there, but the cylinder head is completely different. I haven't found a water-cooled exhaust manifold. Then take a look at the design of the two-valve version and use it as inspiration when recreating it, adapting it for your engine. Your photos of the ladder, clearly demonstrate that you have experience working with metal, including stainless steel. Or would you prefer to buy a pre-built system and just add your own components? As a helpful guide: http://www.umruestteile.de/umruestteile.html Or http://www.dmv-bootsdiesel.de/ The company is located in Rastede (roughly in the direction of Wilhelmshaven). A visit is definitely worthwhile for you; however, please allow a little more time during your visit. The manager can be very detailed in his explanations. It will certainly be able to help you. It's all just a matter of price. And the story has a positive ending. But don't let yourself be ripped off. I remember him from the time when I was initially trying to adapt two Mercedes engines (5 or 6 cylinders, something with a lot of power) for marine use. However, I eventually decided to go with the AUDI TDI models.

I was already at the DMV a year ago.
War ein netter Nachmittag. And that's it.

I am familiar with Marinetechnik Hagen and I also purchase products from them.
The prices are good, and in my opinion, Mr. Moll is more competent than the CEO of DMV. In my view, this is a significant issue.

I actually wanted to build everything myself, but I've run into a time constraint. That's why I would also like to buy certain components.
In step 1, I will be using the original Mercedes-Benz exhaust manifold.
What I'm interested in is whether the effect of a water-cooled exhaust manifold is really significant enough to noticeably improve performance.

tdi on water wrote:

Did he also tell you the story about the high-revving engine running without a load, which is why it has a special diesel injection pump – something he told you himself? Then we would be three.

Yes, he did. For €1800 plus the cost of the pump, he would also be willing to modify one for me like that.

tdi on water wrote:

Using the original exhaust manifold, you won't enjoy it in the boat. The manifold will glow red at high RPMs; because there is no cooling airflow. With a water-cooled exhaust manifold, it should be possible to control the flow rate (bypass). The exhaust gases need to remain hot and "expanded." My last water-cooled exhaust manifold didn't give the impression that it was losing a significant amount of power. Of course, energy is lost due to the laws of physics. I hope I was able to help you a little bit.

That's why the turbocharger is water-cooled in the exhaust area.
The idea was to have the cylinder head and turbo water-cooled, with a non-cooled exhaust manifold in between that would transfer its heat to the cylinder head and turbo.

Did you pay attention to the flow characteristics when building your water-cooled manifold, or is it just a thick pipe with 4 or 5 outlets attached to the side?

Wolfgang,

Please provide the dimensions or distances of your exhaust studs (starting after the turbocharger).
Is the exhaust manifold located on the left or right side when facing forward?
If the distances from the exhaust ports were identical (which sometimes happens by chance), then it would fit.

Hello Tdi on Water,

I'm still in Berlin and haven't been able to take any measurements yet.
The manifold is located on the right side.
Here are the pictures of the cylinder head.
and here are the pictures from Krümmer.
Does that sound familiar?

wolfgang b. wrote:

Hello Tdi on Water, I'm still in Berlin and haven't been able to take any measurements yet. The manifold is located on the right side. Does that have any resemblance?

Hello Wolfgang,

You don't need to measure anything. Your exhaust manifold has 6 studs for attaching the manifold. My exhaust manifold is not compatible with your engine.

tdi on water wrote:

wolfgang b. wrote: Hello Tdi on Water, I'm still in Berlin and haven't been able to take any measurements yet. The manifold is located on the right side. Does that have any resemblance? Hello Wolfgang, You don't need to measure; your exhaust manifold has 6 studs for attaching the manifold. My exhaust manifold does not fit your engine.

I can still add some more in between.
Wie viele Stehbolzen hast Du? And.
Do you have 5 or 10 exhaust openings?
Two openings are always joined together to form an oval opening.

wolfgang b. wrote:

I can still add some more in between. Wie viele Stehbolzen hast Du? And. Do you have 5 or 10 exhaust openings? In my case, two outlet openings are always joined together to form an oval opening.

Currently, I don't see any similarities.

I'll be back in touch after the summer boating season.
After a little over a week, the water-cooled manifold for the turbocharger of the OM 352 engine is finished.
More pictures will be available on my website shortly.

It's time.
The flange of the turbo manifold was milled flat.
Tomorrow will be his first time running.
Unfortunately, I didn't have enough coolant at home.
sonst hätte er schon gestern Abend das 1. Went for a run.
The wire goes to the emergency stop lever.
The transparent tube is filled with seawater, and the short end draws it in.
The turbocharger's oil and water circuits are still short-circuited.
The thermometer is still missing; I hope it arrives on Monday.
After the initial run, the manifold is covered and fitted with water cooling channels.

It ran for the first time and reached an operating temperature of 80°C.



After the initial attempt, he encountered some difficulties and then started.

I've redone everything from scratch.
Also, the diesel pre-filter as well.
I took it out of the original Mercedes box and installed it.

The fuel injection pump is supposed to be self-priming.
It didn't work, though.
So, I installed a small hand-operated gasoline pump from an outboard motor into the diesel fuel line and was trying to use it to bleed the air out of the system.
It suddenly sprayed out of the pre-filter in a large arc.
So, let's break it down.
The sealing ring is missing.
Luckily, I kept the old filter.
Install the O-ring on the new filter.
Everything was bled using a manual pump.
Since the starter motor was still very hot, and the engine didn't start on the first attempt, I used some starting fluid to help it along.
After a few attempts with some starting fluid, it started up and ran normally after a short time.


"Another small problem: the housing for the coolant thermostat is leaking."

While I was looking for a 70-degree thermostat at Mercedes, and we couldn't find one, I asked the mechanic if I could continue using the rubber gasket or if it should be replaced.

Answer:
The poetry is still good.
It probably wasn't that good after all!

My third small problem is...
I think he's being quite blunt.
It's like a hydraulic lifter isn't working properly.

By the way, there's something a bit strange about it.
The charging indicator light only came on recently.
Then, after about 5 minutes of running, it turned off.

Then I started the engine several more times.
The charging indicator light would immediately turn off.