Polo 9N3 (1,4l TDI PD) springt schlecht an, nach Standzeit | Posts 128+

Here's one more quick question for you:
Does the crankshaft seal *absolutely* need to be replaced when removing and reinstalling the camshaft?

stolley wrote:

One more quick question for you: Must the crankshaft seal be replaced if you remove and install the camshaft?

It depends on whether it leaks afterward. You can't really say for sure; of course, a new one is safer.

Best regards, Rainer.

dieselschrauber wrote:

stolley wrote: One more quick question for you: Must the crankshaft seal be replaced if you remove and install the camshaft? It depends on whether it will leak afterward. You can't really say for sure; a new one is naturally safer. Best regards, Rainer

Thank you!
I just ordered one – actually, two, just to be sure!

Dear fellow assemblers ,

I would like to ask for your opinion or assistance.

I'm in the process of removing the timing belt, and I took the opportunity to examine the camshaft more closely because I knew from the previous PDE seal replacement that at least one cam lobe showed signs of wear.

Nun sind mir zwei Nocken aufgefallen, die ich Euch mal fotografiert habe. Außerdem habe ich versucht, einen Tassenstößel abzulichten. Jetzt meine Frage an Euch: würdet ihr bei derartigen Verschleißerscheinungen und bei der sich gerade bietenden Gelegenheit die Nockenwelle einschl. TassReplace the piston?

Then I have another question about locking the camshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC).
I have properly secured the crankshaft with the crankshaft locking tool. The camshaft wheel is aligned so that the tooth segment points upwards. However, the "nose" on the camshaft hub's sensor disc does not point to the "3Z" marking (presumably for a three-cylinder engine), but rather to "4Z". If I rotate the crankshaft one revolution further, none of the markings align with the noses on the sensor disc. I have also attached some photos related to this issue.

Could it be that I installed the sensor wheel incorrectly 150,000 km ago? But how could the engine have run then? Or is the sensor wheel not that important? I don't even know what it does.

Thank you in advance!

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"LG" can be translated as "Best regards" or "Sincerely". It is a common abbreviation for "Liebe Grüße", which means "Warm greetings" in English.

Hi there,

Regarding wear and tear: if you plan to drive the car for a longer period, I would recommend replacing those parts.

2. Regarding the crankshaft position (Nockenwelle): Does the mark on the flywheel align correctly? The crankshaft stop may be inaccurate.

Regards,
Adrian.

jarobaldu wrote:

Hi, Regarding wear and tear: if you plan to drive the car for a longer period, I would recommend replacing those parts. 2. Regarding the crankshaft position (Nockenwelle): Does the mark on the flywheel align correctly? The crankshaft stop may be inaccurate. Regards, Adrian

Hi!

"Thank you for your assessment regarding wear and tear. I'll probably replace the camshaft as well. But I'm already dreading taking out the tandem pump... those screws are so difficult to access."

2. Marking on the swing? Hmm, I'll have to check that out! Thanks for the tip!

I have now removed the timing belt and taken the camshaft out.
After seeing the mark on the pendulum, I honestly didn't search any further.

However, I'm still curious about the mystery of the marking on the distributor rotor: does anyone have an explanation for why it ended up at the "4Z" position on my 3-cylinder engine?

Just for your information:

I reassembled everything according to the assembly instructions, and indeed, the encoder disc is now aligned with the mark at "4Z." Perhaps the wrong encoder disc was installed previously?

stolley wrote:

Could it be that I installed the sensor wheel incorrectly 150,000 km ago? But how could the engine have run then? Or is the sensor wheel not that important? I don't even know what it does.

It only results in a faster start because it detects cylinder 1 at top dead center (TDC) more quickly than just using the crankshaft sensor. The cars also run without the camshaft sensor.

And regarding your question 4Z:
I'm not surprised that VW uses parts like this. The 1.4 TDI is essentially a shortened version of the 1.9 TDI, and they tend to use whatever components are readily available. For example, in the engines found in the 3BG Passat (BGW 2.0 TDI) or A4 B7 (BPW 2.0 TDI), people are often just relieved if the engine has the correct displacement. Often, 1.9 TDI blocks were installed without balance shafts and with a smaller cylinder bore size than expected for a 1.9 TDI.
Since I've seen this on two engines marked with "2.0 TDI BGW/BPW," I don't believe in anything anymore.

Blackfrosch wrote:

stolley wrote: Could it be that I installed the sensor wheel incorrectly 150,000 km ago? But how could the engine have run then? Or is the sensor wheel not that important? I don't even know what it does. It only results in a faster start because it detects cylinder 1 at top dead center (TDC) more quickly than using just the crankshaft sensor. The cars also run without the camshaft sensor. And regarding your question 4Z: I'm not surprised at all that VW uses parts like this. The 1.4 TDI is essentially a shortened version of the 1.9 TDI, and they just use whatever parts are available. For example, with the engines in the 3BG Passat (BGW 2.0 TDI) or A4 B7 (BPW 2.0 TDI), you're lucky if the engine actually has the correct displacement. Often, 1.9 TDI blocks were installed without balance shafts and with a smaller 1.9 TDI cylinder bore... Since I've seen it on two engines marked with "

" and "", I don't believe in anything anymore.

Hi!

Thank you very much for the explanation regarding the NW sensor! Again, I've learned something new!

I will simply accept the 4Z marking! }