Stromaufnahme Golf 4 TDI Bj 02 | Posts 16+

Hi, what does a clamp meter look like? Maybe I can borrow one.

I'll post some photos here tomorrow of my ammeter and how I took the measurements. Maybe it will be helpful.

Sure, here's the translation:

"MFG" is an abbreviation for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which translates to "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English.

pa-mm6 wrote:

Hi, what does a clamp meter look like? Maybe I can borrow one

.

I am sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the content of the PDF document you linked.

The most likely scenario is:
I am sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online, including the PDF you linked. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

However, very few devices measure with sufficient accuracy in the DC range to reliably determine mA values. To achieve this, you need a relatively high-quality device (e.g., Hioki or Fluke) and it must be calibrated to zero before taking measurements.

For comparative measurements, it is sufficient to pull each fuse individually to check for leakage currents.

Okay.

This morning, I checked the current draw again, and it turns out my vehicle is constantly drawing 0.5 amps, which is definitely too much. I went through each fuse one by one. Fuse 35, supposedly for the trailer socket (I don't even have a trailer hitch, it's a 30A fuse), is drawing 100mA. The second culprit I found was fuse 44 (15A), which is for the seat heaters. After removing it, the current draw dropped to about 100mA. After waiting a bit longer, I noticed that as soon as the vehicle symbol on the dashboard disappears, the current draw drops to around 30-40mA, which would actually be acceptable.

I then continued searching, and I found that if I disconnect the red connector located at the bottom of the seat and leave the fuse in place, the power also cuts off. The seat memory function will also no longer work .
As far as I know, several power cables run through here, including those for the seat heating.

I would now like to know what devices or circuits are connected to fuse 35. I experimented a bit, but I couldn't find any disadvantages when the fuse was removed.


"Because of fuse 44, I also removed the switches, but that didn't change anything. Does anyone have any ideas about how this might manifest itself, or what could be responsible for the current draw of the seat heater when it's supposed to be off?"


You're very welcome for the tips.

Sure, here's the translation:

"MFG" is an abbreviation for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which translates to "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English.

According to the wiring diagram, fuse 35 powers the trailer socket and the 12V socket in the trunk.

Sure, Maxx.

Hi.

Thank you, that helps me a lot. Fuse 44, here was a wire from the seat memory system that should have been connected to terminal 75. The first error has already been fixed.

It turned out that a PDC (Parking Distance Control) module was connected here. According to VW, it only needs a ground connection, a constant positive voltage, and a signal from the reverse gear. So, back then, I connected the device directly to the wiring of the socket. It still draws 100mA and won't shut down. "Could anyone of you perhaps tell me how much power a PD STG is allowed to consume, or what the power consumption is for your STGs?"

I suspect it might be defective, although it seems to be working fine so far .

As soon as I plug this in, the current drops to an acceptable 30mA.

I'm still considering connecting it to the ignition positive terminal, so that it will also turn on then.
to be closed

Sure, here's the translation:

"MFG" is an abbreviation for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which translates to "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English.

"Wouldn't it be possible to combine the '+' symbol and the reverse gear indicator and attach them to the reversing light?"
The PDC only needs to be powered when reversing.

Sure, Maxx.

Hi.

I've now connected the PDC (Parking Distance Control) to fuse 7, as indicated in the VW wiring diagram. The quiescent current is currently around 30-80mA, which I think should be acceptable. Let's see when the battery will be empty next time.

Okay, I installed a new battery, drove about 30 km, and then it stopped working again. It turned out that the battery was faulty; one of the cells was completely dead. Battery replaced, and everything is working perfectly again.

Thank you for your help .