wo kauft ihr euren zahnriemen? | Posts 16+

Hi Klaus,

Sorry, but I couldn't manage it any sooner.
Thank you very much for your detailed answer.

Ah, okay. I understood the statement that it's "coming" to mean that it will be announced during normal operation. I probably misinterpreted that.
Because in everyday use, I believe you need a good dose of luck or have to be so familiar with the subject matter that you can somehow classify any potentially unusual sound. Most people simply turn up the volume when they hear some kind of noise .

If, as an interested DIY enthusiast, you occasionally invest a little time to learn about the condition of the timing belt and what can be done without resorting to extreme measures, you might save yourself a lot of trouble and unnecessary costs. I completely agree with you .

Regarding my tensioner pulley defect (a tensioner pulley similar to the one mentioned in the "5-Part NW" post), a part of it had also broken off. I hadn't noticed it myself, but the mechanic told me about it. Fortunately, the tension seemed to improve abruptly at a certain speed, which manifested as the audible rattling suddenly stopping.
It really was like that. I have no idea how the tension could change towards a "good" feeling as the speed increases...

I now need to correct a small error in my previous post.
I accidentally wrote "within" the warranty period. However, it was outside of the warranty period. Sorry. Silly mistake. I must have been daydreaming somewhere else .


I've already got almost everything I need to do the timing belt replacement myself, and I just finished it. I used original parts because my supplier gets me good discounts. And if I ever need a tool (like a crankshaft holder) or a lift, I can go there. So, the parts can cost a little more than aftermarket ones, as long as it doesn't break the bank.
Sure, I always replace all the bearings, screws, nuts, bolts, and the water pump at the same time.


Früher, in den späten 80ern und in den 90ernhabe ich auch Contitech genommen. DIt was always excellent.

I wish everyone a pleasant evening.

Best regards,
Wool.

It's likely that the smoother belt load at a certain engine speed made the motor run better or quieter. I suspect this is because there are significant vibrational resonances there, which are also the reason for using a dual-mass flywheel (DMF) in some models.
"Broken tensioner rollers have only happened to me once, and that was due to inserting them too short and twisting them with the Allen wrench during the tightening process. I had to immediately replace it with a new roller before it would work properly."
Perhaps that's what happens when a crack forms during the tensioning process?
It's good for everyone that things turned out this way.
A belt that is too tightly tensioned will make a much louder noise.
I highly doubt that Dayco belts come from the same source.
As a tip for everyone, during the inspection, don't hesitate to remove the cover and look inside with a mirror. Also, run the machine and observe whether the belt is already almost touching something.
I believe it is also part of the VAG testing scope.

teileklaus wrote:

I believe it is also part of the VAG testing scope.

And measure the width! It's new at 30mm, and it needs to be replaced if it's 27mm or less. This is also part of the VAG testing scope for 1.9 PD engines.

Hello,

Defective tensioning or idler rollers can sometimes show signs of failure during operation.
However, you need a lot of luck to notice it in time. I was lucky: I stopped with the window open at intersection 400 meters from my home base and heard squeaking noises.

During normal driving on a country road, you would have virtually no chance.

Best regards, Rainer.

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

And I have a Contitech, and I can't hear anything different regarding the running noise. Everything rattles and clatters as it should . Honestly, what are you hearing? When the hood is open, my combustion noise pretty much drowns out all other sound sources.

My belt makes a whistling noise when the engine speed increases – even though the tension is correct between 3000 and 4000 RPM. It has already been checked by many workshops, and the belt tension is fine.

Okay, I'm going to install the VAG timing belt kit next, let's see if that improves things.

Ibiza1986 wrote:

The sound of burning is louder than almost all other sound sources. My belt makes a whistling noise when the engine speed reaches 3000-4000 RPM, even though the belt tension is correct (between 3000-4000 RPM). It has already been checked by many workshops, and they confirm that the belt tension is fine. I'm going to install the VAG timing belt kit next, let's see if it gets better with that.

The question you need to ask yourself when you've already replaced the timing belt several times is whether the timing belt pulley itself is worn out. If it is, the new belt won't fit properly and will likely make a whistling noise.
Well, good luck... I doubt that the noises are 100% dependent on the belt manufacturer.

Hello,

I recently acquired a G3 gasoline car (1.8L) with a newly replaced timing belt (done 5,000 km ago) by an independent workshop. Fortunately, I checked it shortly after, as I always perform an inspection when acquiring a new vehicle.

The timing belt was half gone!

I immediately replaced it. While doing so, I noticed that the independent workshop had used a set of parts from the aftermarket. When I placed the sets side by side, it was clear that the carrier for the tensioner pulley had only half the material thickness of the original. When tightened, this had slightly warped and caused the belt to be misaligned. As a result, it wore down unevenly on one side.

"In this life, I will only use genuine parts for any engine replacements. I can't be that cheap to risk my engine for just a few euros!"

That's relative.
The range of products available on the open market varies greatly, from very high quality to outright junk.
One has the freedom of choice.
If something is not cheap enough, you shouldn't be surprised by the quality.

In my belt kit from the internet, I should replace it with an original Conti set.
Unfortunately, I received the pulley from MAYLE.
Unfortunately, I don't know what kind of components they use in those devices.

Now, after 56,000 kilometers (approximately 35,000 miles), and shortly before the mandatory technical inspection (TÜV) and general safety check (ASU), I wanted to inspect the timing belt system and possibly adjust the tensioner pulley.

To my dismay, the pulley was stuck.
Probably only recently. According to the marks left by abrasion.

So, I was lucky!

Always buy branded products.

Hello.

Quote:

That is relative. The range of products available on the open market varies greatly, from very high quality to outright junk. One has the freedom of choice. If something isn't cheap enough, there's no need to be surprised.

The problem is that, as an occasional DIYer, I can't assess the quality, especially since I don't have an original part to compare it to.

Relying solely on price can also be misleading. There's expensive junk just as there's affordable quality.

So, as a non-professional, I'm left with the safe option. Or, I have to trust someone who has a financial interest in selling me an accessory (namely, the accessory dealer, who of course recommends that part). It might work out well in most cases, but it doesn't necessarily have to. And I bear all the risk myself.

@Kai, this is probably something different:
The parts dealer offers different quality levels at varying prices.
The manufacturer is responsible for defects in the product, while the installer is responsible for proper installation.
Der Hersteller befindet über die Altteileprüfung ob der Schaden durch sein Teil oder eben einen fehlerhaften unsachgemäßen Einbau ( auch loser Haltebolzen durch Überdrehen der Mutter ist ja denkbar) entstanden sein kann. LehnHe gave it up...
Then a specialist will decide, or possibly even sooner, if they have been commissioned to do so.
If a tensioning roller becomes misaligned, the installer might notice this while it's running without protection; if the roller jams, it will likely fail very quickly. In such cases, if the tension isn't too tight, the quality of the roller itself could be the cause.
"Even OEM parts, which are usually of very high quality, were defective within the warranty period."

kai_od wrote:

The problem is that, as an occasional DIYer, I can't assess the quality.

That's why we're talking about it.

The quality and origin of "original parts" are also relative. We used to have a brand new A3, which came with Ferodo brakes installed at the rear from the factory (which is a budget-friendly supplier). After 2 years, they had to be replaced because they were completely rusted.
I thought I was seeing things when I held the glasses in my hands.
Just recently, I removed a Difi (direct fuel injection) unit from our Sharan, which was manufactured in China. Of course, the original equipment (OE) part costs over 40 euros. The removal was necessary due to a leak in the fuel injector housing, not as part of routine maintenance. If you're buying OE parts for the full price, I don't know what you were thinking. There are also pump-injector units from Poland and wiring harnesses from Malaysia, and undoubtedly many other great products available.

Parts of these brands are available for sale at very low prices through regular channels. Just as an example.

Whether you choose OEM or aftermarket parts depends on your perspective and what you're looking for. I would say that using belts from Continental or Gates, and pulleys from INA, SKF, or Ruville is generally a safe bet.
Unless it's okay for something to cost nothing, then these brands should not be considered at this time.

Jarek wrote:

GET MAYLE. Hello

Their name is Meyle. They offer reinforced stabilizer links for the Sharan that are durable, and they're the only ones to make a 1.9 PD water pump with an impeller made of cast iron. Actually, what they produce seems well-made. Who knows what was used before.