Drehzahlreserven der TDI-Lader für dreckigen LuFi? | Posts 16+

Okay, when I replace the timing belt, I also change the water pump and the bolts. Also, my timing belt has already run for about 100,000 km.

Unfortunately, all the speculation doesn't change anything. A car like this *could* last 250,000 km, but it doesn't necessarily have to. A component like that *could* last forever, but it doesn't have to.

As you can see, it's either up to each individual or simply a result of caution and foresight. If the cheapest component in the transmission fails, the likelihood of noticing it immediately is low to non-existent, while the resulting damage can be immense. Therefore, I consciously replace the entire assembly. It might be that it's always too early, but I'd rather err on that side than the other .


So, the crystal ball can stay in the closet.

@Matthias
I now know that it's better to replace that part. However, I hadn't given the pin much thought before because it doesn't appear on any list as part of the timing belt system. I didn't realize that the part was attached to the engine block and I thought it had already been replaced along with the vibration damper. But then my memory reminded me that it wasn't.

The question is simply whether I should wait until the next scheduled maintenance to replace the timing belt, or whether I should replace it now.

It seems that one must do this when it turns out that nearly all 60000 series AMF engines that have never had their PIN replaced fail between 200,000 and 300,000 miles, or that almost all timing chain failures in that engine are due to this.

Best regards,

Okay, when I replace the timing belt, I also change the water pump and the bolts. Also, my timing belt has already run for about 100,000 km.

Unfortunately, all the speculation doesn't change anything. A car like this *could* last 250,000 km, but it doesn't necessarily have to. A bolt *could* last forever, but it doesn't have to.

As you can see, it's either up to each individual or simply a result of caution and foresight. If the cheapest component in the transmission fails, the probability of noticing it immediately is low to non-existent, while the resulting damage can be immense. Therefore, I consciously replace the entire assembly. It might be that it's always too early, but I'd rather err on that side than the other .


So, the crystal ball can stay in the closet.

For the sake of completeness, regarding the turbocharger boost issue on my AMF 1.4 TDI (wastegate turbocharger):
When driving at a constant speed of approximately 2100 RPM, the control unit expects a pressure of 1600 mbar, but only 1200 mbar is delivered.

The air-fuel ratio of the N75 turbocharger remains fixed at 25% under partial load, just like at idle.

Under full load, there is no boost pressure increase until just below 1800 RPM. Then, at 2300 RPM, the full boost pressure is reached.

"Does anyone have the target boost pressure values that the car should achieve in its standard configuration? The values from my chip are quite optimistic anyway..."



Best regards,

Quote:

The control unit expects 1600 mbar, but only 1200 mbar are delivered.

= Emergency program, meaning your chip is unfortunately completely damaged.

Please provide your complete VAG part number from the control unit.

Best regards, Rainer.

045 906 019 L 1.4l R3 EDC, "0000SG 1039"

Thank you.

It really makes you wonder whether I should switch out the charger now, or if it would be better to make some changes to the software instead.

Normally, the following target values apply for the boost pressure:
- 1250 mbar at an injection quantity of 20 mg per injector and 1600 rpm.
- 1380 mbar at an injection quantity of 20 mg per injector and 2000 rpm.
- 1550 mbar at an injection quantity of 30 mg per injection and 1800 rpm.

Best regards, Rainer.

"Thank you. Based on my understanding of the fuel injection amounts, I would also risk the system going into emergency mode with the standard software if the deviation exceeds 200 mbar for an extended period."

I'll double-check that more carefully.

I'm wondering if there's a cheap or easy way to get the software customized without having to spend another 400-500 euros.
Possibly also via private message.

It seems that S*N will likely only want to downgrade to using standard software.
"Pure software-based solutions would be suboptimal, as the 5th gear is moderately extended from 0.70 to 0.75 (similar to the Audi A2 1.4 TDI with 90 hp)."

For general information:

I replaced the charger, and the problem is fixed. The engine is running like new.

Visually, there's nothing to indicate any issues with the old loader. For the untrained eye, the shaft is just as easy to turn as it is on a new loader, and there's no more play. At most, if you push the shaft towards the compressor with considerable force, the resistance to turning is only slightly higher than that of a new part.

The process of changing things in the Lupo was quite annoying for the average person, as everything was very tightly packed.