sehr krasse Geschichte - nicht lachen, bitte um Meinungen | Posts 16+

I once emailed a process engineer at the Salzgitter plant and asked a few questions about the belts used and the crankshaft pulley attachment. Let's see what (and if!) he replies.

I'm not familiar with this engine, but could someone explain the relationships and connections to me?

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I once emailed a process engineer at the Salzgitter plant and asked a few questions about the belts used and the crankshaft pulley attachment. Let's see what (and if!) he writes back.

Ask him why they're sticking with this awful solution for so long.

Well, I suppose that if there's a response at all, it will probably be uninformative.

Wear and tear on timing belts in AFN engines typically occurs between 90,000 km and 180,000 km. Brand: Power Grip.

@BM: The good man won't be back in the office until August 2nd, 2010, so in the meantime, the email will just sit there on the server.

Hello,

goettmann wrote:

For a reasonably clean installation of the KW wheel, the KW must be absolutely securely and rigidly locked on the opposite side. To achieve this, at least the transmission needs to be removed... !!

"I don't understand that. You can lock the crankshaft using the access hole in the starter motor gear. Any remaining play would then be due to the radial clearance of the main bearings, and I can't comprehend how that could possibly affect the screw at the other end."

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Then, you can try using a screw and a rigid wrench to align the wheel perfectly straight with the KW. Make sure to use smooth, even movements. Avoid stopping abruptly, as this can cause distortion.

How can you manage to mount the wheel crookedly onto the shaft? The flat surfaces of the wheel and the shaft don't allow for a crooked mounting. The only thing that could be uneven is the eccentricity of the screw. However, even with the utmost care, the screw will always be slightly off-center because, when tightening it by 90 degrees, you inevitably apply a radial force to the screw, which pushes it out of the center. This could be avoided if you used a "two-armed" wrench, but that's obviously not possible due to space constraints.

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The assembly process in the factory takes place in a partially automated process. Therefore, there is a machine that guarantees a consistent tightening. Whether the KW (presumably a component) is already installed in the KW housing or not depends entirely on the local processes. Both options are possible. In any case, the KW is completely fixed in place via the opposite side for screwing. I cannot say

how it was with that particular engine.

This can only be done when the assembly is already in place, because the sealing ring flange must first be placed on the shaft. With the mounted wheel, the flange cannot be moved axially far enough, so that the guide sleeves on the flange come into contact with the engine block when the shaft is inserted. Or, to put it another way, there is not enough space between the engine block and the pulley for the flange and sleeves.

Best regards, Uli.

I always tighten the main screws with an impact wrench at 16 bar. That eliminates the problem of misalignment. The manufacturer's specifications are 1650 Nm at 6 bar.

They probably don't do it any differently in the factory (not necessarily with an impact wrench, but definitely not with a socket, T-piece, and extension).

Hello Mr. .......,

Just contact a certified repair shop.
Unfortunately, I am not knowledgeable about this topic either.


Sincerely,

Uwe Sxxxxxxxxxxx

Please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English.

Great... GERMANY!