Eberspächer D5WS Sharan Heizung Steuergerät reparieren | Posts 16+

Repair successfully completed; the heating system is working perfectly.

Image 1 shows the inside of the heating system. Image 2 shows the old control unit from the inside. The mass has the consistency of gelatin and already has cracks. The cables on the connector also don't look good anymore (Image 3). I'm very glad that I replaced this part. Thanks to Mulle for the support in this matter.
Image 4 shows the new part. The adhesive material is black this time and harder than it was in the old version. It's also noteworthy how it's distributed: Hella apparently manufactures this part and supplies it to Eberspächer, who then supply it to vehicle manufacturers, who in turn sell it to end consumers or workshops. If it's sold as an original part, three companies have already made a profit. .
@Dieselbear: Now you know why those things are so expensive.

Image 5 shows the new motor. If anyone needs to replace this motor: The actual manufacturer of this motor is not Eberspächer, but Bühler in Nuremberg. This motor has the part number 1.13.055.030 and costs around 30 euros from Bühler. From the heater manufacturer, it's sold as a combustion fan for 100 euros or more. There's also the black plastic housing attached, which you can reuse from the old motor. You can disconnect the two cables and resolder them, remove the cover, cut three M3 threads into the existing holes, put the cover back on, screw in the motor – and it's done. A significant saving.

I also replaced the flame arrestor screen. Surprisingly, it looked quite good. It was installed in February 2009. But since the heater is already being removed, I'm going to proactively eliminate this potential source of problems as well.

I ran the heater for one cycle and there were no error messages. The old motor didn't have any major issues, and the internal resistance was 2.3 ohms.
The heating system is much quieter now; it was definitely broken.

Aaaah, your control unit is a bit different from the one I had here. It was as hard as stone . Thank you for the pictures, very interesting.

"I know that the circuit board is attached to the casing with two Torx screws located underneath the gelatinous material. I've already tried using a light source to find their exact location, but so far I haven't been successful. However, I gave up for now because I wanted to make progress. But I will definitely try to locate them again soon."
I just went downstairs again and couldn't resist pressing the button one more time. It starts like a jet! It wasn't like that before... I am very satisfied.

Don't hit me for this, but I have an unconventional tip that has personally helped me twice with situations like this...

Why don't you go to a doctor and get that thing X-rayed, maybe they can even donate it to the coffee fund.

With an X-ray image, it's much safer and more confident to explore the black, dense mass .

Regarding the cables at the plug:

I recently acquired a D3WZ from a T4 that was declared to be defective.
The only defect was actually a severed positive/negative cable at the connector.

It seems it's not as rare as we thought.

That's correct, especially with older heating systems. It's a potential source of problems.