2,5 TDI (AEL) im Volvo 850 --- extreme Startschwierigkeiten | Posts 16+

"Are you serious? 170 euros just for a print? Are they crazy?"

"They do that as a side job with us, just for a coffee!"

Honestly, something's not right. I replaced the injectors, assembled everything, and got it to start. You already have new injectors in stock for 170€...

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hello"

I don't know what to say... I'm also starting to lose interest and run out of time. I've been freezing my toes for far too long in these freezing temperatures, and my hands have been numb while working in the engine compartment. And I've already invested enough (~300 euros) with absolutely no results.

My little one will likely take the car to Berlin on Monday and have it placed in the workshop of a friend there --- so they can try their luck.

Check the start of the boost function. Initial adjustment can also be done with a multimeter, see the technical article.

Basic procedure:
I am unable to access external websites or specific files online, including the URL you provided. Therefore, I cannot translate the text from the German link.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,

Thank you for the tip about the "home remedies". However, I will have the ESP settings checked next week at the workshop using professional equipment: I don't want to have to do that myself beforehand.


@ all:

Could the problem also be related to worn-out fuel injectors? I just read that someone supposedly had that issue... what's confusing me is: If the car is running, then it runs very well! Wouldn't defective injectors also be noticeable during operation?

Held467 wrote:

I don't know anyone off the top of my head who has one

.

The Mann&Hummel WK845/1 filter, as pictured, comes with a seal when it is new.

Then, let's test the nozzles.

"Take a mold and create a spray pattern - but as I said, for around 200 euros, you can get a repair kit, and the spray pattern will be like new. Just take a mold and it will be fine."

I had it done as a precaution at 300,000 km. However, it didn't change anything at all! No "better" starting, the same amount of soot (I was expecting something different there), and the same fuel consumption...


I'm not sure, but I think I told you somewhere else how perfectly my TDI starts this winter. I only drive it once or twice a month because I have a separate winter car, but it starts up so phenomenally...

It is questionable why?

Did I fill up with the more expensive OMV winter diesel (which is supposed to work well in temperatures far below -20°C) before I parked the car? I doubt it.

"Or could it be related to the pump timing adjustment I made last summer after replacing the belt? For years, I had an injection timing of 0.50, which is at the upper limit of the tolerance – supposedly, this is good for starting performance."
"In the summer, I set it to -1.0 - right in the middle. I thought I'd try it out like that, as I was definitely expecting major starting problems in the winter, but I just don't understand it."

It's also interesting to note that a friend of mine took his car to a workshop to have the fuel pump adjusted, specifically because of the difficulty he was having starting it.
He was very satisfied with the result, but the MKL (presumably a specific system or component) kept turning on intermittently.
The diagnostic reading indicated an incorrect injection timing.
He was here just now - we measured 8.0 degrees. That's quite a bit.

"But I was surprised, it wasn't really knocking, the car was running quite normally, and my friend is also satisfied because it starts well. I left it as it was."

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hello"

"There might still be a leak in the system, causing the injection pump to run dry. I would suggest installing two small check valves in the supply and return lines; they should cost around 15 euros from a commercial vehicle parts supplier."

Hello.

and a happy new year to everyone!



Brief update:

The day before yesterday, at approximately +5°C, after standing for 18 hours overnight, the elk started immediately. My first thought: Everything is fine --- problems with minus temperatures, everything is great with plus temperatures ---> the start of the feeding process is delayed!

We drove for about 15 minutes and then parked the car for a little over an hour. When we tried to start it again, it was difficult to start (it took three attempts). Doesn't that contradict the "fuel priming" theory?

Anyway, he's coming to the workshop tomorrow evening... I hope they find something: I don't want an endless story!

Okay, so it's not related to the cold, right?

"Do you assume that you don't have any diagnostic capabilities? That you haven't checked the values (temperature sensors, etc.)?"

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hello"

Hey you, unfortunately, nothing like that is available.

Which temperature sensor are you referring to? The one located on top of the large coolant hose at the front of the engine block?

Okay, there's nothing we can do now except replace it based on suspicion. Let's run a diagnosis and monitor the values.

I don't really know much about the starting process either, but besides the environment, which of course should be correct (if the control unit thinks it's minus 90 degrees, nothing will happen ), there are also things like fuel injection amounts, etc.

As I said, I'm not really familiar with that - the diesel specialist would probably know more.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hello"

To put it simply: The distributor is the limit for how far the timing can be adjusted due to wear. Please replace it, provided the valve timing is correct.

Best regards,

Hello!

I wanted to briefly update you on the current status regarding cold start issues:

Last weekend, we performed a complete timing belt replacement. It was definitely necessary because during the last replacement, approximately 100,000 km ago, only the timing belt and its tensioner were changed. The water pump and the ESP belt had been in operation for 200,000 km --- and that's exactly what they looked like: on the verge of collapse! Furthermore, the alignment between the camshaft and the crankshaft was completely incorrect: the installed camshaft alignment tool was off by as much as 7 mm in height! Well, now all the values are definitely correct...

Currently, the Volvo is without its fuel injectors, as they are being overhauled by a company in Hamburg that is known through online sources. I expect them to be returned around the middle of next week --- so we'll have to wait and see: I certainly am.

Compression test done? If not, pump it up! To put it simply (the distribution body is vacuumed, meaning it doesn't provide enough pressure at the starting speed for a proper fuel injection). Worn-out injectors are definitely present, but they're probably not the reason for the poor starting. Best regards.

Hello my friends of the self-starter.

Since this afternoon, the moose is running again! But the story behind it is really something special... so:

On January 3rd, we took the car to a workshop belonging to an acquaintance, which also has a Bosch diagnostic system. My task was to determine if the fuel injection timing was correct, both statically and dynamically, and to identify any other obvious errors. After the inspection, the result was: "Fuel injection timing is OK, fuel system is leak-free (which I already knew), glow plug system is OK (which I also knew), timing belt is worn." I accepted this and ordered a replacement timing belt, which was then installed by a good friend in my presence (as can be read in this thread). After the timing belt replacement, several corrections were made, and the Volvo ran noticeably better --- but it still wouldn't really start. So, I had new injectors installed (also documented in this thread)... as a result, the engine ran even better --- but it still wouldn't really start.

Yesterday, I had finally had enough and took the car to the Bosch service center for a diagnosis. This afternoon, I received a call: "The problem has been fixed, please bring 505.17 euros."

Long story short: There were two minor causes and one major one. The first two were likely a damaged O-ring on the central screw of the pump (ring with screw, 22 EUR net) and a slightly misaligned ESP belt... but the main cause (and here it is!) was an absolutely grossly misconfigured static pump start!!! I had actually ruled out this source of error a long time ago... or so I thought.

Well, I'm now 500 euros poorer, but I'm glad the Elch (my car) is running again (when we picked it up just before 6 PM, it had been sitting in the cold for 4 hours and still started IMMEDIATELY!). And I'm relieved that I didn't have to replace or overhaul the pump.

My thanks go to everyone who contributed to this thread or via private message: Even though it didn't lead to a solution this time.


Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Greetings!"

- The King of Fine Dust -