Kurbelwellenrad 1Z nach einem Monat wieder ausgeschlagen | Posts 16+

That sounds great! I'm a metalworker and I've learned to use files. Actually, the surface just needs to be smooth again, and you can achieve that with a file. One must not distort the area at all.

Do you have any more tips on this?

Greetings

Tobi

Quote:

Actually, the area just needs to be smooth again, and you can achieve that with a file. One must not round the edges at all.

It must not only be smooth, but also plan and right-angled to the KW.
Otherwise, the pulley will later wobble, which in turn will lead to premature failure.
To achieve this properly, it can easily take several hours.

Good morning everyone,

you are right. I have now carefully examined the crankshaft end again. It is anything but smooth. I think so too. In this case, it's difficult to create a flat and right-angled surface using a file.

I was wondering if anyone here on the forum has tools they could lend out? I really want to get the back of the car nicely smoothed out, because I'm quite worried that my beloved Golf will die because of this

But the 380,- € I saw for the tool online currently exceed my budget

I would, of course, like to pay a rental fee, provided it is not €380.

Maybe someone can help me???

Best regards

Tobi

Hello Tobi,
The main shaft should not be degreased, but should only be mounted in its original, unlubricated condition. verschandeln the thread on the KW stump thoroughly, ensuring it is free of oil.
Regarding planing, please take the advice of experienced colleagues regarding damaged KW stumps. I mounted the spur gear on the intact KW stump at that time.
To understand the fit between the spur gear and the KW (keyway), I would be interested in the dimensions along the axis at both the KW stub and the spur gear, as well as the clearance. I would have expected a hand-adjustable fit or even a slightly expandable transitional fit in the original condition. I just didn't want to check it on my engine .
hg
Herbert

It's not always the KW (quarter turn actuator), a faulty ZMS (zero-speed motor) can also cause vibrations.
bring the shock absorber back to normal!

Def. ZWS not only softens the transmission, but also works on the control side!

When I installed rigid suspension systems in the cars, I noticed significant wear and tear on the shock absorbers, gearbox, and tensioner.

I hope you can understand this.

Hi there,

Good morning,

@ Herbert:

Currently, I also consider planning to be essential. Especially because the crankshaft end now looks a bit worn out in the second instance. "Unfortunately, obtaining the necessary tool is not as easy as it seems."

You're right about the fit. It's a fitting that's just barely possible. However, my crank wheel now moves a bit back and forth. About 1°. I mean, it wasn't like that the first time. The dimensions are such that the crank wheel will definitely press against the front face. So, that a friction fit is created. Would you also like precise measurements?

As the connection is intended to work, I haven't quite grasped it yet. I learned during my studies that there are either a flush connection or a friction connection, and that neither should be used simultaneously. It is certain that the flat crank shaft surface is important for maintaining the pre-load forces on the screw. However, I can only imagine that the torques cannot be transmitted solely through this friction connection? Especially since friction-fitted connections are usually designed as tapered joints (such as in the camshaft gear) due to the higher normal forces, and often when a smooth adjustment is desired. I am, of course, not a motor designer either, it's just basic knowledge

I'm just wondering if I need to somehow prevent the described twisting, otherwise the wheel will move again after each load change, and then the clamping force will also decrease. So, what can be done? Reinforcing and applying welds both have their advantages and disadvantages. I was thinking about fitting a small "wedge" at the spot where the weld would normally be, which could be made from a small piece of sheet metal. What do you think?

@JSPatrick

That's correct. Good suggestion. However, the crankshaft screw was definitely too low after one month, and I need to do something about it. But I will also consider your idea.

Best regards

Tobi

Hi Tobi,
is this the new bevel gear, originally made by VW? And how does the handle of the KW stump look, especially the transition between flat and round?
I am bothered by the game you are reporting on.
Regarding the fit, the developers refer to a specific form-fitting element, see: Chapter 4.2 (Figure 16) in the Appendix there:
/viewtopic.php?p=189150#189150
The presented screw grade is outdated!
As a connection with a friction fit via the screw, it should not actually be designed for load changes.
hg
Herbert

The new gear is from FEBI!

The shaft appears to be okay. Specifically, the flattened part is not warped or rounded, and the edges are still clean. Even when I lay a ruler on it, I can't detect any real rounding. I just looked at it again. I can rotate the wheel on the outer radius by about 1 mm. However, the old crank wheel that I removed can be rotated by almost 4 mm. That explains my extreme starting problems.

The article is very interesting. I definitely need to read it carefully. It's becoming quite clear how critical this connection is at the 1st floor. If it's definitely a form closure, then I have to reduce the game.

What do you think of the methods posted here? Specifically, the "sweat point" or "stiffening" methods? What do you think of my method using a wedge? Since the inserted sheet must also be very thin.

Best regards,
Tobi

Hi,
I have also stated quite openly that I don't have a solution that I can be 100% certain about.
With the reinforcement, I'm confident that by drilling into the KW, you'll actually create the exact problem that VW solved by removing the slot in the long run.
Perhaps a leaf placed flat between the KW (crank) and the spur gear (from a leaf spring theory)?
hg
Herbert

Exactly, that's what I meant about the wedge. I could use a leaf from the "Leaf of Fitting" that provides a fitting that can be easily created by hand. I don't see any disadvantages or problems that could arise? Unlike stiffening and welding, neither the structure is changed nor are notches introduced into the component. The only potential drawback could be that the leaf might not be strong enough and could be completely flattened?

I am grateful for the suggestions...

Look, see if 0.05 even fits in there.
hg
Herbert

I will try. But only on one side of the curve!?

Every good mechanic has a planer, and you don't even need to remove the engine to plan. A friend did it just yesterday, and it only took 10 minutes. What part of the country do you come from?

New Stump + New KW Screw + New Pulley = Peace

I know that once you have the drill, it's no longer a problem. And it looks so wonderfully new, just like in the picture

I come from Brilon in the Sauerland. If you don't know it, it's very close to Willingen, and Paderborn is also nearby!

Greetings

Tobi

Yes, it really looks like the picture, almost even better.

Ask them here:

http://www.gt-motorencenter.de/impressum.html

In exchange for a deposit, they will safely give you the item!

HI

Found the following while browsing an auction house:

The price seems good, I don't know if it's worth anything, maybe someone already has one!

Article number: 280647558502

Hi Lorenz