2.0TDI BKD mit 10km und 7Jahren Standz. - Kolbenfest feiern? | Posts 16+

I've already checked it. It looks bad, unless you destroy the plastic and buy a new one. The problem will likely be with the front wheel and the NWS (Neutral Wheel Speed) sensor.

The gentlemen were right . Pulleys removed, head removed - the cold dread on 4 cylinders. Number 3 is completely dead, the rest looks better, but not great. By chance, the online store currently has a new set of Nural pistons from Federal Mogul Nuremberg for the BKD with 2 over-size (80.97mm) for a total of €155, at least something ^^.

Damn it - I paid for this whole mess! Experience teaches you things, and all I can do now is take it in stride, what else can I do? But at least my head looks good.

I first flooded the third cylinder with penetrating oil and then put the head back on.

[img]/download.php?id=6614[/img]

It was to be expected. There's a reason why certain things should be considered when storing something. Also, there's a reason why you shouldn't just leave a vehicle parked for a long time without occasionally starting and running it.

My condolences (regarding the bad investment)! It certainly looked appealing from the outside.
"Don't judge a book by its cover!"
haithamina

Hello God!

I don't quite understand your Eblay action regarding the pistons in this context.
Even if you get checked/reconditioned PDUs (Power Distribution Units), they won't do you any good if the chassis itself is beyond repair.
If you want to install the pistons, you logically have to bore the cylinders to an oversized dimension, which pushes the cost very close to the profitability limit of the engine.

Ultimately, in my opinion, there are only two reasonable options:
1.) Motorkauf (inkl. neuer Kolben ) als Lehrgeld abschreiben und fertig. Or.
2.) Reinstall the cylinder head with the old gaskets/bolts, tightening them to the specified torque with a second pass. Fill all cylinders through the piston dome openings with 0W30 LL oil, and pump in about 1-2 liters of oil through the ATL oil pressure line into the engine. Repeat this process every month, and set the BKD engine aside for about half a year. If it then turns freely, you can further inspect the cylinder walls and decide what to do. If it's still stuck, I would recommend option 1.

Best regards from Munich!

Quote:

If you want to install the pistons, you logically have to have the cylinders bored (oversized), which comes very close to the profitability limit of the engine in terms of cost.

I would start by removing all four pistons. If the remaining three cylinders/pistons are okay,

Is there a possibility to bore out the defective cylinder to maintain the standard size?

The grinding and honing process, with an oversized bore, costs me a total of €180 if I bring in the bare engine block, and the guys I take it to have been doing nothing but rebuilding cylinder heads and engine blocks for 40 years. You can consider the piston work as a good deal at €155. If the connecting rod bearings and main bearings are in good condition, the "new" crankshaft assembly will cost around €350.

I can say this because I don't have a problem with it - the entire engine with the DSG transmission cost 1500€. Since I still have a BKD engine, just the cylinder head and the injectors would be worth the price if they work. "Dieselbär" is right, of course; those tested injectors wouldn't be useful for THAT engine. However, I hadn't taken the cylinder head off yet when I wrote that; I just suspected it, which is why I impulsively bought the pistons. When do you ever find new BKD pistons with a 2.0 oversize? And since a single piston usually costs over 200€, I don't feel guilty about it.

The pistons are all coming out, but I'm not really keen on using a full set of new bushings. Would it be a problem to use the second oversize size? Could it be that the cylinder bores have a Nikasil coating from the factory?

I first filled the most problematic cylinder with penetrating oil, but I think I'm going to build a plate that I can use to apply proper pressure, i.e., a plate and an air compressor connection for each cylinder. The goal is "just" (HAHA!) to get the rings unstuck from the cylinder wall. If I get the feeling that something is moving, I'll remove the crankshaft and tap the piston with a piece of soft wood, trying to loosen it up.

I can't really tell yet whether it's just that one person who's involved, or if the rest are also implicated.

Hi again!

Okay... 1,500 EUR is already quite a lot for that .
Does the deadline for the return policy apply, or what's the objection to giving him a full six months of peaceful recovery time?
While lubricating oil might not be entirely bad, it will never be able to remove the corrosion that has built up over nearly a decade in just a few minutes, of course.
It also evaporates quite quickly and loses its effectiveness fairly rapidly. I would really try it here with MÖL and time.

As you mentioned, the condition of the various storage containers is also questionable. I rotated one twice, and it definitely seems like it's going to break.

There's power in stillness!

Best regards from Munich!

Is there any kind of nuclear rust remover suitable for this purpose?

But you're right. Remove "KW" beforehand if possible, and yes, he can stay.

Deus Violentia wrote:

Is there any kind of nuclear rust remover for such purposes? ...

Sure: TNT, hammer and chisel, pneumatic screwdriver (connected to compressed air), angle grinder, ...

I wouldn't remove anything from the project; instead, I would rather stop or revise other planned initiatives.
Try using it every six months with 0W30LL oil.
The more energy you put in up to this point, and the more it ultimately turns out to be for nothing, or should turn out to be for nothing, the more it will stink for you.

Best regards from Munich!

Okay, now all the unnecessary stuff is removed, only the oil pan including the attached components remains.
Now I can finally move and turn the block around on my own, without the need for a crane or other equipment, which makes the work much easier. The hope that the blockage might be related to the DSG (presumably a specific system or regulation) has not been confirmed.

But the evil cylinder is already consuming some of the creeping oil .

Based on my gut feeling, I would also recommend removing the crankshaft. The way the dead cylinder looks suggests that one or more bearings might be in a similar condition. They won't improve if you leave them in place. You can use a wooden block to remove the dead piston just as easily as you can with the attached crankshaft.

Best regards.
Christian.

chris11 wrote:

Just as the dead cylinder looks, so too can one or more bearings look.

He's right! All the pistons are out, which is half as bad as I thought. Second oversize and good to go ^^