Drehmomentbrummen am AHF / BLS | Posts 16+

Take a look and see what quantities he's offering in this area.

It could also be problematic if there is enrichment (essentially, 'fatting'), for example, through water temperature / intake air or '2MSR protection' against suffocation. There are also the funniest things . If it's always similar in the autumn/winter, it seems there is indeed a temperature-related cause.

Due to excessively cold engine oil, a bearing may be subjected to increased stress.

mullemaus wrote:

Take a look and see what quantities he's offering in this area. It could also be problematic if there is enrichment (essentially, "fatting"), for example, through water temperature / intake air or "2MSR protection" against suffocation. There are also the funniest things . If it's always similar in the autumn/winter, it seems there is indeed a temperature-related cause.

I haven't been able to log the data yet - I always drive the car under pressure.

But if it drones, it drones even with a light accelerator pedal, for example, when it consistently moves in a straight line - not only under "load" (and therefore, suspected high fuel flow rates).

m;

Hello,

"Some plastic part" bends awkwardly in the cold and can then vibrate more/less.

Radiator covers are securely fastened, water tank cover is okay?

In my old A3 AHF, there was a piece of foam between the air filter box and ???, because the box, along with the flexible intake hose, also tended to make noise.

Best regards, Rainer

I have an idea:

I warm up the torque converter (using warm water) and then perform a cold start.

If the storage area down there is available, it should run much more quietly.

If not, it's something else.

m;

Analysis:

A promising, very plausible candidate:
Coolant inlet from the expansion tank to the engine.
It floats 2mm above the front screw of the motor bearing and has exactly above it a protective cap, this thickening.
When the BLS vibrates (and it vibrates a lot), the tip can beautifully drum against the screw.

-> high-rise
-> No changes ((

Break down further:
The air filter box has a noticeable amount of play in the middle, internal "compartment".

That should really go well with the humming/rumbling. Unfortunately, it's only available in single units for over 100 EUR

In combination with the used LuFiKa, I noticed that the motor mount under the battery is very soft and allows for a lot of movement.

However, since it has slotted rubber buffers, it seems normal.

Now get the ramps and then carefully examine the torque support, because my forward and backward movement in 6th gear. The engine pops and rattles, moving forward and backward instead of (as expected) moving smoothly back and forth.


################ Been crafting and back to the PC ############

Partial Success:

The wintery, extreme buzzing is less. EDIT: but not much less
I have wrapped the battery terminal with 3-4 layers of electrical Isoband tape. This means the LuFiKa is now sitting snugly in place.
Additionally, the two half-shells of the intake air duct are separated from each other using Isoband.
He cut deeply into his finger.

Conclusion:
- The BLS is very strict when it comes to vibrations.
- After 150,000 km, the rubber suspension in the LuFiKa is worn out.
- Because he has spilled, the entire box needs to be replaced.
- The anti-squirrel pipe ensures that the case must itself withstand all the forces exerted on it by the engine, in the direction of the LMM. There is not, like with the rigid pipe, a kind of support in the direction of the door frame.
This will ensure that the rubber buffer is consumed even faster.

The reason for the temperature dependence is certainly the shrinking and hardening of the rubber layer in cold temperatures.
Does the engine radiate heat to the cone and thus the rubber, making it softer and causing the rubber to fit more firmly onto the cone?

Possibly, you can place something ON TOP of the cone, so that the rubber bearing presses FIRMLY downwards onto the cone.
Or, even better, a fitting "cape" over the cone.

m;
go wash hands and take care of...

Funny,

+5 degrees and it's already better.

As in
/viewtopic.php?t=27438
detected, the gearbox bearing will likely need to be replaced.

Let's see how the humming changes then.

m;

Okay

I am of the opinion that the engine mounts are complete.

As was previously identified in this forum as "too mobile" under the battery,

The lower torque support seems to be constantly "at its limit" - the outer pins are hitting.

So, it's best to remove the side supports and install the MJ09 bearings.

m;

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

I have been trying for ages to find out if the MJ09 bearing can be used as a replacement.

It's a genuine replacement, the old stock is no longer available

m;

Today, I replaced these shocks on the Passat 3C. The car is making a rumbling noise when accelerating. The upper rubber part was torn. However, I don't believe that the noise is gone, because the bearing is essentially so soft that it will always be at its limit under load.

I have completely disassembled the axle housing. I have detached the steering knuckles, stabilizer bar, and exhaust hangers from the axle housing and secured them to the vehicle. I have detached the control arms from the sides of the wheels, or these remain attached to the axle housing along with the rear bearings. So, I was able to accurately mark the position of the axle body before - This means that surveying can be omitted, as the wheel track dimensions will remain unchanged with respect to the overall track.

The bearings are made of plastic on the outside and each has a cutout for the pivot. The bearing can be removed very quickly - simply destroy the bearing retaining ring with a flathead screwdriver. The 2nd The Lager can then simply be transplanted.
I managed to do it without any special tools. However, for the next action, I will either get it or borrow it from .

Tomorrow, once the crossbeam is reinstalled, it will become clear - I will then edit the results here. I think, however, the real cause is different.

Hi

I have some immediate questions?

(0) Can't I also use the arm of the pivot instead of special tools?
As I understand it, the main focus is to ensure that the two half-shells are inserted symmetrically and with a straight alignment.

(1) Did the 3C already have the new type of bearing with the V-shaped arms?
The spare parts warehouse is now always the new one.

(2)

Quote:

However, I think the real cause is different.

and which?

(3)
I still have the gearbox-side bearing for the Golf here.
Let's see when I get around to it.
Do you have any experience with the length of the lever that is needed for "60 Nm + 90°"?

Hello
m;

Quote:

(0) Can I also use the arm of the pivot instead of special tools? As I understand it, the main focus is to ensure that the two half shells are inserted symmetrically and with perfect alignment.

The problem isn't the centering, but rather the impression on the bushes. When they are half way through, they become uneven above the recess, so that they cannot be pushed further in.
To prevent this, you would need a piece of pipe that fits perfectly over the fitting, so that it maintains its round shape when pressed in.

Quote:

(1) Did the 3C already have the new type of bearing with the V-shaped arms? The spare parts warehouse is now always the new one.

It's possible that the older ones were also V-shaped (Year: 04.2007, BKP).
however, your BMR from the ET-number has different components installed.

Quote:

(2) Quote: I think, however, the real cause is different. and which?

If I find the error, I'll let you know First, let's put it back together...
When assessing the car, it's possible that almost 1/2 million KM could be the case. However, if you look at the car closely, you might estimate the mileage to be around 180-200,000 KM based on the wear and tear. For the first 2.5 years, he drove approximately 11,000 km per month, solely between Munich and Nuremberg.
I haven't been able to identify any real defects so far. The vehicle has a complete service history. Until 360,000 km, VW always performed all necessary repairs. Troubleshooting can sometimes be more difficult with these types of vehicles, as one has to consider all possibilities.

Quote:

(3) I still have the gearbox-side bearing for the Golf here. Do you have any experience with the length of the lever that needs to be used for "60 Nm + 90°"?

A torque wrench will suffice based on its length. I estimate it to be around 120 - 160 Nm, but not more than that.

Quote:

It's possible that the older ones were also V-shaped (Year: 2007, BKP), however, your BMR from the ET number has different components installed.

2007 is definitely still the old one.
Yes, the BMR has slightly more V than the BLS - and its storage actually has arms.

But nothing compared to the new ones:
http://reichhard-motorsport.com/catalog/images/ebay/PFF85-704a.jpg

I didn't admit to the problem with the press.
The PRessrohr, which you were missing, should therefore have the diameter of the bearing and press evenly on the outer edge?
But doesn't that also create an area (a board)?

I need to take a closer look at the special tool again....


Hello
m;

No, he means that the pipe should fit the bearing exactly (inner diameter of the pipe = outer diameter of the bearing, which is inserted into the pipe and sits inside, being pressed in. This way, it cannot be deformed in width when pressed in). That's how I understand it.
haithamina

Quote:

No, he means that the pipe should fit the bearing exactly (inner diameter of the pipe = outer diameter of the bearing, which is inserted into the pipe and sits inside, being pressed in). This prevents it from being warped when pressed in this way.

Exakt

By the way, the change of location was not meaningful from a noise perspective. Everything was exactly the same as before. As long as the edge of the rubber is not worn away and the pendulum support is still nicely centered, it's not a problem.

Quote:

By the way, the change of location was not meaningful from a noise perspective.

And it was really old version against new version?

Thank you.
m;