Zahnriemenriss am T4 AAB - (doch kein Umbau auf ABL) | Posts 16+

Good decision.

Yes, I think so too.
That's a better approach, installing a suitable engine.

Steffen G wrote:

It's better to install a suitable engine.

No, that's just simpler.
It is better not to install an ABL.

SO.

The "new" AAB is installed and running.

Now, there are still some finishing touches to be done, such as...
- Neatly arrange the cables.
- Reinstall fuel lines to original configuration (after PÖL waiver ).
- AGR and Oxicat.

m;

Here's a brief analysis of what likely happened:

The idler pulley of the ZR shows excessive play.
That probably led us to use too high a Z-ray voltage.

This causes the camshaft to move downwards.
The first layer effectively transfers heat and friction to the head.
The bridge will suffer damage at the second location.

The bridge and the cam before it are broken.

The ZR was nothing but crumbs.

m;

Evening.
Even with a lot of play, I can't imagine that the timing belt would experience significantly more tension.
"For that higher tension to develop, it would need to have more than 10mm of play in one direction."
There are no visible marks on the CV joint boot indicating whether anything foreign has entered.
Would you rule out simple material fatigue as a cause?
Best regards,

Well...

The engine had 330,000 kilometers on it, but the cylinder head only had 80,000.
Furthermore, the engine has been consistently operated at high power levels since it came to "us" with 251,000 km - its primary area of use is "the Alps."

He also had a whining sound (which was probably the recirculation valve), but as far as I remember, that only started after the last timing belt replacement.

"Definitely, the 'new' one, with its 200,000 km, runs much smoother and is more agile. The old ESP system was probably just a shadow of its former self, and even with 100% diesel, it wasn't really willing to release the fuel properly."
Vmax was good, but a sudden press of the accelerator pedal was ignored without enthusiasm.
The new one runs smoothly when you press the accelerator, almost like a 5E feeling.

Sure, here's the translation:

"One more question:"
Can someone identify the two wire colors of the two oil pressure switches?

Greetings.
m;

Yellow is coming to the bottom.