ESP im Eimer?? | Posts 16+

haehnlein wrote:

Hi, Our pump specialist is going on vacation *whine*

.
Hello,
That's not entirely correct! There are many more people here who have considerably more knowledge about pumps than I do (Diesel.Gustav, Bertil, Gremlin... and anyone else I've forgotten, please don't cut off my head ).

Okay, bye for now.

Hi,

@ Ulf: Well, I hope you have a wonderful vacation.

The values come from a measurement, and nothing was changed on the vehicle. (For example, the lights were on or off, etc.). Not even one person has been in the car. Time period < 1 minute.

In group 01, all values except the cooling temperature are changing.
And I certainly didn't mess around with the pump. If I had, I would know what was wrong and could fix it myself.
Unfortunately, I can't say what the previous owner did with the . What's certain is that the car has never run properly. But now it's really getting bad. It doesn't maintain its RPM, it constantly jerks at low speeds. It's like riding a horse. And it will certainly get even worse.

@ haehnlein: I'm going to get a laptop with a COM port now, so I can actually work properly. Unfortunately, my current laptop doesn't have one anymore. (Yes, yes, progress.)
Carrying my second computer and monitor around with me all the time is really annoying.

Wenn ich dich richtig verstanden habe steht die Pumpe zu fett. (Je kleiner der Wert) Und durch zu fette Einstellung neigt die Möhre zu ruckeln. Sure, I'm ready. Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.
With the pump head, I can adjust the amount of fuel injected by adjusting the quantity setting. (By moving the pump head). Is that correct? How does this affect the idle speed?

You've probably done this before. Another question: Did you also experience fluctuations in the fuel injection amount? Did you also have fluctuations in the engine speed?

Last question: Will adjusting the upper part of the pump (where a higher value means a leaner mixture) stop the fuel injection amount from fluctuating??? (Although I think I already know the answer. But I'm still hoping }).

Okay, I have another one: Could all this trouble be caused by, or exacerbated by, misadjusted valve timing?

Please don't stone me for asking silly questions.

Thank you very much, and see you then.
Markus.

Hi Markus,

zocker100 wrote:

Wenn ich dich richtig verstanden habe steht die Pumpe zu fett. (Je kleiner der Wert) Und durch zu fette Einstellung neigt die Möhre zu ruckeln. Correct??

Okay... and how. Especially in the lower RPM ranges (e.g., 50 in 5th gear). However, the engine also has plenty of power due to a generous tuning.

zocker100 wrote:

With the pump head, I can change the injection amount by adjusting the quantity setting. (Move the pump head). Is that correct?? How does the idle speed relate to this?

Absolutely. The larger the fuel injection amount, the higher the engine speed.

zocker100 wrote:

You've done this before too. Rude question: Did you also experience fluctuations in the fuel injection amount? Did you also have fluctuations in the engine speed??

Someone had previously messed with the ESP system in my car, and the fuel injection was way too rich. The car was jerking, and the EDC (Electronic Diesel Control) couldn't maintain a stable idle speed (especially after short bursts of acceleration): you could hear it as a "whirring" sound, and the needle on the tachometer was fluctuating between 900 and 1100 rpm.

zocker100 wrote:

Last question: Will adjusting the upper part of the pump (where a higher value means a leaner mixture) stop the fuel injection amount from fluctuating??? (Although I think I already know the answer. But I'm still hoping )

Unfortunately, I don't know if the fuel injection volume also fluctuated back then. When trying to adjust the idle speed using the EDC system, there were errors everywhere with VAG-COM.

zocker100 wrote:

Well, I have another one: Could all this trouble be caused or exacerbated by misadjusted valve timing???

I would definitely investigate that. In my case, it was a combination of a delayed start to the fuel injection and a fuel pump that was too powerful. First, check the fuel injection timing using VAG-COM (see the technical article). If that's correct, the valve timing is most likely also okay.

zocker100 wrote:

Please don't stone me for asking a silly question.

We all started with a hardware store screwdriver, didn't we?

Haehnlein, I could kiss you.
You're giving me real hope.

I just got myself a new sleep tracker. However, I won't be able to use it until Sunday. Then I'll take a close look at all the data it provides.

What still makes me a little uncertain is your statement that the "Möhre" (presumably a component or setting) produces a lot of steam when the setting is too high. --> Mine is working nicely, though.
"And the higher the idle speed, the more powerful it feels. However, mine seems to be running closer to the lower limit. The idle speed fluctuates between 819 and 880 RPM."

By the way, this "wrumwrumwrum" sounds very familiar to me.

Thanks again, and see you then.
Markus.

Hi Markus,

zocker100 wrote:

Haehnlein, I could kiss you.

is actually a warm-up exercise to get a handle on the 1z for this forum.

zocker100 wrote:

What still makes me a little uncertain is your statement that the carrot produces a lot of steam when the setting is too high.

Mine, however, seems to be working nicely.

at least within the speed range up to 2000 rpm. Perhaps things will change if the pump is too rich

zocker100 wrote:

.

And the higher the idle speed, the fatter it gets. Mine, however, tends to fluctuate around the lower limit. The idle speed fluctuates between 819 and 880 revolutions.

To be honest, I'm not entirely sure if the engine speed exceeded 1000 rpm back then }.

Mark } the location of the pump's upper part with a pin and simply shift it a mere 0.1 mm in the CORRECT direction (-> use your eye, the worst that can happen is that the car can only go 80 km/h). It's important that you shift it in the right direction } (see the technical article). Simply file the nut to shape according to my instructions -> it takes 10 minutes.

Hi haehnlein,

I just performed an adaptation of channel 1 using VAG-Com.
And lo, I have the impression that things have improved. Unfortunately, the software doesn't offer enough flexibility to completely resolve the problem.
It seems to be a lot better now.
I'll try it again more precisely tomorrow and observe it for now. It's already dark now, unfortunately. But I think this is the right direction.
And so, I suppose I will have to go to the doctor.
When the time comes, I will take pictures of the pump beforehand (and show them to you). That way, I can be sure I haven't moved anything incorrectly.

See you then.
Markus.

Okay.

Hello Markus,

I hope the electronics experts won't tear my head off, but in a 1994 1Z, the crankshaft bolt syndrome can also cause similar effects: jerking, uneven idle, weak performance, and smoke. More information on the topic can be found here: http://home.arcor.de/sgrafen/salatoel/kw_schraube/kw_schraube.html.
If this applies to you, I wouldn't drive the car even a short distance until the problem is fixed. The mating surface of the crankshaft pulley will also be damaged, so simply installing a new pulley with a new bolt won't be enough; the surface needs to be cleaned (which can also be done with some skill and a good file).
By the way: "Pöl" is vegetable oil.

Best regards, Uli (with corrected KWS syndrome at AAZ).

Hi Uli,

Is that link from you??? I've already promoted it a few times in the forum .

Regarding the keyword: Markus is not experiencing any starting problems, which most likely rules him out.

@Markus:

Just to be on the safe side, run the following test:

- Jack up the front of the vehicle on one side.
- Shift into 5th gear.
- Rotate the crankshaft to the top dead center (TDC) position by turning it (e.g., using a socket wrench).
- Remove the timing belt cover (top).

If the KW (keyword) is located on the OT (outer tooth), a suitably sized mandrel/tube (maximum diameter 15.45 mm) or a long socket must be able to pass through the corresponding hole in the ESP (electric submersible pump) impeller, as well as the hole in the bracket behind it.

Basically, you can also read out the start of the subsidy period using VAG-COM (see the technical article).

Please translate the following text from German to English, keeping all exactly as they are. Provide ONLY the translation, no explanations.

Hello Christian,

>Is that link from you?

The link already , but the page is not . It belongs to Sönke, a colleague. Through his page, I entered this scene about 2 years ago...

I've already advertised a few times in the forum.

Yes, the key points are summarized clearly (although some of the information may no longer be up-to-date).

>regarding the keyword: Markus is not experiencing any startup issues, which most likely rules that out.

My girlfriend's Passat didn't have that problem either. It starts up perfectly (with 100% fuel), but then the problems begin: it idles like a stubborn horse, has no power, and smokes...

>If the KW (keyword) is on the OT (output terminal), a suitably sized pin/tube (maximum diameter 15.45 mm) or a long socket must be able to pass through the corresponding hole in the ESP (electric submersible pump) impeller, plus the hole in the bracket behind it.

Unfortunately, that's not enough information for a diagnosis. You can still easily insert the pin even with a worn-out pulley.

>In principle, it is also possible to read out the start of the boost using VAG-COM (see the technical article).

If the Facebook button is blinking on and off, then the diagnosis is likely confirmed.



Best regards, Uli.

Hello everyone,

Well, what can I say? I think I got my hopes up too soon. While the idle speed is now better, everything else seems to have gotten significantly worse.
"The car is shaking more violently, and the maximum speed is now only 140 km/h (downhill), and 100 km/h (uphill). Basically, it's a mess. I would even say that the car is becoming practically undrivable at this speed."
I then went back to a Bosch service center to get their opinion. They advised me to first have the injectors checked (due to the mileage). They also suggested performing a compression test at the same time. The cost would be around 50 euros. I think I'll probably have them do it.

Let's get back to the kilowatt-hour (kWh) meter. Of course, I had that in mind too. I already have the new meter with the raised section installed. You can definitely feel it. So, it must have been done sometime before my time. But what if the old meter was broken and someone just replaced it with a new one?
It seems like the two pulleys that the belts for the power steering, water pump, and alternator run on are "wobbling." In other words, they seem to have a lateral movement. I mentioned this to the workshop, but I didn't get a response (just a strange look). So, I didn't push the issue further.
What's worth mentioning is that the engine doesn't produce any smoke or soot. At least, I don't see anything through the rear window.

Question regarding VAG-Com diagnostics: The manual states: "To do this, start the engine and first select the 'Basic Settings' function on the diagnostic tool."
and then ad group 000 "However, I don't see the "Basic Settings" option. I only see it under "Advanced Features."
Or does it mean: Basic Settings -> Measurement Block -> Display Group 000 -> Basic Setting?

Sorry guys, but I'm completely lost.

"Update: Just now, while fiddling around, I noticed that the software coding on the control unit is set to 00000. Shouldn't there be a different value there?"
I can't access ad group 000, so that's no longer an issue.

Thank you very much, and see you then.
Markus.

Deleted upon request.

Hello.

Okay, since the car has been acting up again this morning, and I'm starting to get worried about the drivetrain, I decided to skip the Bosch service appointment and just went straight to the workshop.
I have the impression that the problem is getting worse every 10 kilometers. Since adapting channel 1 seems to be making things worse, I don't have much hope that moving the upper part will be successful. Not to mention the anxiety I experience just by seeing it.
The bottom line: the pump will be replaced. At least they will replace it with a new one if the problem isn't fixed.

I will keep you updated on how it turns out.

See you then.
Markus.

Uli S. wrote:

the link already , but the page is not .

I mean it, don't I?

I haven't received another notification email about this topic (stupid web.de ).

zocker100 wrote:

But what if the old screw was already broken and someone just simply replaced it with a new one??

"That's the crux of the matter. The previous owner only installed a stronger bolt and a new pulley, but didn't address the recessed machined surface. After a few thousand kilometers in our possession, the problem reappeared. When I disassembled it, I saw the issue and machined the recessed surface flat before installing the new pulley. If this isn't done properly, the wheel only makes contact with the machined surface at two points, which then wear down during operation, and the bolt loses its preload, causing the connection to loosen and the groove to become even more worn."

Quote:

It seems to me that the two pulleys on which the belts for the servo, water pump, and alternator run are "wobbling."

In other words, as if they have a lateral movement.

Breaststroke suggests a constricted surface area .

Quote:

I also mentioned it to the workshop.

I didn't get an answer, though. (Just a strange look.) So, I didn't bother them any further. [/quote]

I hate doctors and mechanics. They think they know everything, but they don't actually know anything... }

Best regards, Uli}

zocker100 wrote:

It seems to me that the two pulleys on which the belts for the servo, water pump, and alternator run are "wobbling."

In other words, they seem to have a lateral movement.

Hi Markus,

It might sound like a crankshaft bolt.

zocker100 wrote:

Question regarding examination using VAG-Com: The manual states: "To do this, start the engine and, using the diagnostic tool, first select the function 'Basic Settings / Grundeinstellung'." and then ad group 000 "However, I don't see the "Basic Settings" option. I only see it under "Advanced Features." Or does it mean: Basic Settings -> Measurement Block -> Display Group 000 -> Basic Setting ????

Basic Settings -> Measurement Block -> Group 000, then proceed!