Re: Spare parts acquired. | Posts 16+

m.w. wrote:

Consequently, the new wheel would then need to "grip" due to the clamping pressure.

Okay.

I finally took some photos of the Kw Stumpf:

It looks like this is what happens when the gear rotates a few degrees. (Of course, I forgot to take a picture of the other side, but there, it's flattened by about 2mm.)
In any case, it seems to me that the surface hasn't been re-machined yet (the crankshaft bolt broke at 27,000 km and was repaired by VW).
I'll ask VW about the tool tomorrow.

Does anyone have any other techniques for determining the exact OT (Over-The-Road) position? I've found that using a copper welding wire helps me identify an area on the KW (likely referring to a specific part of a vehicle) that definitely doesn't have any markings. The only possibility would be a hole in the clutch pack, located approximately where the manually determined TDC (Top Dead Center) is, based on the marking protrusion.

I'm also looking for a way to lock the camshaft. I used the old timing belt to loosen it, and I'm still looking for a method to tighten it that won't immediately put stress on the new timing belt. A hole to push a thorn through, etc., is not present, and the method of using a crowbar/screwdriver in the teeth is probably not a good idea either.
ciao, Marcus

m.w. wrote:

I finally took some photos of the Kw Stumpf.

Hi,

I screwed a French wrench onto a radial strut of the camshaft gear to tighten the bolts on the camshaft gear.
The crankshaft bolt should be easily tightened with the help of another person: put the car in 5th gear, apply the brakes, and the other person tightens the bolt. Normally, the timing mark on the crankshaft has a notch that can be seen through the hole in the transmission housing.
Otherwise, off-topic from the first post. Determine the cylinder bore size by inserting a straw or plastic rod into the spark plug hole.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello,

To hold the camshaft sprocket in place, I built a holder: I bent a piece of steel into a horseshoe shape, welded a piece of round steel perpendicularly to each end, and then added a lever. That's it. Everything else is a makeshift solution, because either the locking gauge is overloaded, or, if no gauge is used, the timing belt may be overloaded .

Design the counter-holder so that it can also hold the intermediate shaft, as the intermediate shaft seal must be replaced every time the timing belt is changed.

To counteract the KW (suspension component), www.matra.de offers the tool VW3099 for 50 euros. Attention: Replace the two screws of the tool with 12.9 grade screws . I'm not sure if the 5th-gear method puts too much strain on the engine components, because the tightening torque (90-degree rotation) is extremely high ( a proper lever is required ).

Hi,
Wouldn't the clutch slip then?

Hey, check out how much torque your engine produces; even the early 90 hp TDIs achieve over 200 Nm...
The clutch might start to slip around 300 Nm, but the KW screw might already be loose at that point.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hm, could someone show me a crankshaft stub that's in good condition? I can't tell what's wrong with it.

Best regards, WarLord.

Rainer K. wrote:

Hey, check out how much torque your engine produces; even the early 90 hp TDIs achieve over 200 Nm... The clutch might start slipping around 300 Nm, but perhaps the KW screw will already be loose at that point.

Hi Rainer,

Although I'm not good at estimating, 300 Nm is definitely necessary for the 90-degree . So, a driveshaft screw is nothing compared to that, and on my old Passat, it had to be tightened to 230 Nm . I personally had to use a 3/4" breaker bar plus an extension, applying force with both arms, just to get it to 90 degrees with a lot of effort.

Hi,
For the 2.4L naturally aspirated diesel engine, there is only one torque peak without needing to rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees further, and that torque is 450 Nm!
I could calculate the theoretical torque of the other engines - it's just been a long time .

Okay, so I borrowed the tool from VW today and then worked on the KW suspension. It was anything but straightforward! I lay on the cold floor for almost an hour, turning the cutter around the shaft.
The wheel hub was installed with Loctite, and the screw was tightened. When I turned it a quarter of a rotation, my torque wrench (the longest one I have) indicated that its range, up to 210 Nm, was clearly too small. At some point, it also bent the 10cm extension (okay, it came from a cheap, noisy case). I managed to get the broken screws out of my counterweight, which was probably not securely attached, using my fingers . Well, let's see how well that goes...
So, just to practice, I temporarily installed the old timing belt. Let me tell you, it was difficult. The tensioner doesn't have that much play.
Okay, I then checked the valve timing roughly: the engine speed was at KW OT (which point should I use there?). Left or right? (Rotated up - there are definitely a few millimeters difference) clearly off.
Okay, I'll go ahead and install the new timing belt tomorrow and see if I can get the timing correct. Then I'll turn it over a few times by hand, and hopefully, I'll have a running engine (or have to buy a new one ).
and sometimes connect a laptop to it.
I'm quite curious to see how this turns out. Finally, my first timing belt.
Hi Marcus,

WarLord wrote:

Hm, could someone show me a healthy crankshaft stub? I can't tell what's wrong with it.

Take a look at the potholes in the surface. She must be completely honest!

Hi Marcus,

If you've already taken everything apart down there, then you might as well install a new timing belt, tensioner, and intermediate shaft seal . Who knows how much stress the old one was put under by the loose crankshaft pulley ? You shouldn't skimp on those few euros .

If your engine hasn't been making any knocking sounds (from the valves or pistons) before, then it looks very good. Don't worry... the engine is probably fine.

Okay, here are some photos of the VW tools and the damage they can cause.

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First of all, let's talk about the tool itself.

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Then, the application: screw in the Dorn and turn it.

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Initial successes... and keep going...
You can only see how wavy the stump can be.
To the naked eye, it looked fine, but the digital camera revealed the problems, and with the right tools, you can see them clearly.
I replaced the crankshaft and camshaft seals, and I'm also putting in a new timing belt (I just wanted to try running with the old one for a while; if it breaks or stretches, it doesn't matter much, but with a new one, the failure pattern should be more predictable).
I held the crankshaft in place using an old pulley to which I welded a kickstand (which then rests on the floor).
Hi Marcus,http://m.w.-.bei.t-online.de/pic/kw7.jpg{MARKER}http://m.w.-.bei.t-online.de/pic/kw8.jpg{MARKER}http://m.w.-.bei.t-online.de/pic/kw9.jpg{MARKER}

Okay, the engine is running! It started without any problems after three attempts.
BUT: the camshaft sprocket is wobbling. And I installed the key, as described in the VW manual, but it's still wobbling. In the VW Bus forum, someone already commented: "That wedge needs to come out; it doesn't belong there."
I just looked up the part number: N 012 708 2 (spring = €0.3.
Freshly delivered from VW, and it's also registered in VW's system.
Besides the fact that it's currently snowing and I really don't feel like lying under the car in the dark to fix something again, I'm just annoyed by this. What kind of wedge is this, and where does it go?
Hi Marcus,

Hi,

The shim is used to ensure the correct positioning of the camshaft gear on the camshaft.
However, this is only 'easy' to do with gasoline engines.

On your 1Z engine, the camshaft is locked on the opposite side when installing the timing belt. Tighten the timing belt and then secure the camshaft pulley with the specified torque.
The wedge will not be installed.

Do you not have a 'Do it yourself' book or something like that?
Could I send you a timing belt replacement guide that used to be available online (I unfortunately can't find the link anymore)? If you are interested, please send me an email.

Best regards, Andy.

Yep, thanks!
I just realized that the VW Compi diagram shows TWO camshafts. One has a cone and groove, but NO spring, and the other is solid AND has a spring. The latter is probably from the gasoline engine. I'm not entirely sure what that has to do with the image of the TDI cylinder head.
I just assumed: Since the nut was loose in the NKW (presumably a specific vehicle model), the wedge must have fallen out. So, I got the parts for the TDI (presumably a diesel engine) and the matching spring (although it was intended for a gasoline engine, which is annoying). Then I installed them.
The work remains, but at least I know what went wrong .
The spring pin is also not included in the Ezold. But even 10 years after the end of production, VW still doesn't list the T3 VW Bus in its online catalogs.
Hi Marcus,