Golf 3 Tdi 90Ps etwas lau | Posts 16+

Sorry for the late reply! Just a quick note about the valve.

I'm referring to the EGR valve - the one with three vacuum hose connections and a 2-pin connector.

It looks exactly like the boost pressure limiting valve, except the cap is black, not white.

and I paid about 75 euros for it. Was that too much, or do you have a different valve?

Regards,
arne

Hello,

It is also possible for the monolith to become detached within the catalytic converter. This will cause a blockage. If this happens, your catalytic converter may produce slight rattling noises.

I've experienced many instances where the catalytic converter has been removed. Simply detach the exhaust pipe from the turbocharger, or better yet, unscrew it completely (leaving the exhaust pipe hanging), and drive. It's not that loud.

Hello,

I reached 182 km/h when the car was warm.
I came home from work, stopped briefly at VW, and 5 minutes later I had managed to install the valve. Then, it took another 10 minutes to drive through the city to the highway.
and then full throttle .

What can I do to make mine run at 200 [units/speed/etc.] as well? If I hit the catalytic converter, I don't hear anything. I'll try taking things apart.

Okay, don't feel too restricted by the 200-word limit!
To achieve that, my own must also be able to roll very freely – with a long distance and little headwind.
The Golf 3 has a drag coefficient (Cw value) that's as bad as a wall.
That's why even Passat models with the same engine and age often have a higher top speed listed in their registration documents (3 or 4 km/h more).
According to the speedometer, it should easily reach 190 km/h, even without going downhill or being towed by a Porsche.

Common issues like a severely clogged air filter or a blocked diesel filter are likely not the cause.
You probably already checked it yourself.
It would certainly be a point to check if the previous owner didn't have the car 'maintained according to the service booklet,' as they say.

Markus.

The car has a complete service history.
I installed a new air filter and a diesel filter.
I once disassembled the intake manifold, and I noticed that the area where air enters the engine was oily.
So, it's the pipe where the hose from the mass airflow sensor connects.
It's not completely full of oil or anything, but if you wipe it with your finger, your finger gets greasy. Is that normal?

As far as I can see, everything appears to be clean in the front of the air duct.

I can get a brand new LMM (likely referring to a Lambda sensor or similar component) for €110. Do you think it's worth the investment, even if it's a bit of a gamble?

The exhaust (including the mid and end sections) is new.

Today, I disconnected all the connectors and treated them with contact cleaner.

I also replaced that other valve, which is located below the solenoid valve.

So far, I've only been working with cheap, small parts, but I guess I'll have to start dealing with the bigger components soon.

Today, an older mechanic at ATU told me that the fifth gear is an overdrive, and that the car goes faster in fourth gear.
*pondering*

The "economy mode" doesn't apply to the TDI engines. They already reach their maximum RPM in 5th gear at top speed, so how would it work in 4th gear? If you rev the engine to 4500 RPM in 4th gear, that's still well below the maximum speed.

"In the past, there were actually gearboxes like that, but unfortunately, they are rare these days (I would find a 6th gear as an overdrive really great, allowing you to drive at 180 km/h with a comfortable 3000 rpm; the TDI should have enough power for that)."

Best regards,

Jan.

Hello!

Well, I'm certainly not a true TDI expert – I've just been driving one for 7 years and know a little bit about them.

But as far as I've gathered from this forum, a little oil in the intake manifold is already normal - so DON'T worry!
It's probably also because the crankcase ventilation system connects to the intake manifold via a hose. If some oil is 'vented' along with the gases, it ends up in the intake manifold. Well, that's roughly what it is...

Before you start replacing expensive parts, however:
Question: Are you now satisfied with the acceleration at higher speeds (140-150)? Has the original problem been resolved?
So, is the problem 'just' the lack of 8-10 km/h to reach the maximum speed?
If the latter is the case:
Then I would probably try a different autobahn for testing.
Sometimes, slight inclines or declines are barely noticeable, but they can affect the maximum speed.
We have the A46 highway near Neuss here. This is another example. It looks perfectly flat. But in one direction, I can only reach about 185 km/h, while in the other direction, I can always reach 200 km/h.
In level driving conditions, a speed of 195 km/h is realistic.
Perhaps your problem is actually caused by something very simple.
Perhaps your speedometer is simply less accurate.

Markus.

Hi.

Quote:

Today, I disconnected all the plugs and treated them with contact spray.

Hopefully, this won't lead to a nasty surprise later on: Some contact cleaners (especially those that advertise their "cleaning power") are chemically aggressive and can cause corrosion in the medium term!

I once used some kind of cleaning product on the rotary switch of a multimeter. It worked for a few weeks, but then it started malfunctioning even worse than before.
Re-treated, the same thing happened... then it was unscrewed, and the contact surfaces were examined: they were corroded .

Since then, I've been using spray oil with the addition "does not attack most materials," which works just as well as the contact spray at the beginning, but hasn't caused me any problems .

G3-TDI wrote:

I can get a brand new Lmm for €110, do you think the investment is worth it? Just like that, without any guarantees?

Hello, if your name is Gustav Gans, then
Otherwise, I would first check the mass airflow sensor (MAF) values using a diagnostic tool.
Have you cleaned and checked your EGR valve for leaks yet?
Your engine code should be 1Z, which indicates the 90 horsepower TDI engine with a wastegate turbocharger.
See the error database, Michael's post /viewtopic.php?t=327.

Best regards, Rainer.

I've already replaced the mass airflow sensor, but did it actually make a difference?

'Feeling-mäßig scheint es jetzt etwas besser zu sein, aber es könnte auch Einbildung sein. Wenn jemand dieses Teil heimlich eingebaut hätte, hätte ich wahrscheinlich keinen Unterschied bemerkt. '

At what RPM does the turbo typically engage?
The tips for buying a used car mention a price of 1500, but mine is closer to 1900. (You can already notice a slight difference starting around 1800).

Hi,

Again, here's the reference to my diagram . I notice it starting around 1300 revolutions, and it really starts happening around 1500.

Best regards,

Jan.

Okay, I was just out delivering something, and on the way back, I did that 2000-4000 test in third gear. It took an average of 9.4 seconds across three attempts.
According to this ULF table, I should be getting a result of 7 seconds, if my calculations are correct.
I used the following values for my 1Z:

Engine power, original, at 4000 rpm: 66 kW.
Torque around 2000 rpm: 200 Nm (I don't know the exact value).
Maximum speed (Vmax): 178.
Engine power at maximum speed: 66 kW.
speed at 2000 rpm: 50.

I left the rest as is.

I finally received confirmation of the performance deficit .
'By the way, it takes me about 4.3 seconds to reach 2000-4000 RPM in second gear.'

G3-TDI wrote:

According to this ULF table, I should be getting a result of 7 seconds, if my calculations are correct. I used the following values for my 1Z: Bitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. I finally received confirmation of the performance deficit .

Hi.

I believe you haven't corrected the yellow torque column; you've transferred the calculated values from the column next to it.
Then you'll get a result of approximately 8.5 seconds.

But your 9.4 still seems a bit low to me...

Hello,

@ Ulf

My G3 (estate/wagon) weighs 1400kg (actually weighed!), and that results in a time of 9.9 seconds!

@all

Without any modifications, I achieve a 0-100 km/h time of 9.1 seconds, and with a weight of 1400 kg (including fluids and ready to drive), that already represents an 8% increase in performance (~97 horsepower). With a (recalibrated) engine control unit, I achieve a time of 8.0 seconds (~107 horsepower).
So, I wouldn't be particularly upset with a 9.4-second time – just weigh the car; you'll be amazed.

Hello.

The curb weight of the Golf is 1120, plus my 70, and maybe another 10 for the subwoofer .

Unfortunately, my scale here only goes up to 160 kg .
Where can I find larger ones?


I've only had the car for about a month.
I just called the previous owner. The car had been sitting for the past six months before I got it, because he was in the hospital.

I'm going to try that thing with the doctor's syringe and the can tomorrow.
It might be stuck.


@Ulf: Thanks for double-checking. I'll get Excel and install it on the correct computer.