komische startprobleme | Posts 16+

23 bar - 16 bar - 17 bar - 24 bar

Someone messed with the engine, but who and how... In terms of performance, I thought the engine was doing pretty well for 110 horsepower. Around 200 would be something else, though. But as mentioned above, it really lost power going uphill, which I'm attributing to the ESP. I haven't driven it hard since the fuel pump change. And just now, it started really poorly again, cranking for about 10 seconds.

In my opinion, incomplete combustion occurs in the lower load range (idle, low RPM range), which causes fuel to enter the oil. Julian mentioned something similar recently. I've experienced this with my old A4. If you spend a lot of time driving in the low load range, the oil consumption can increase significantly, and this is due to incomplete combustion.

Sure, here's the translation:

'Hi there,'

My tips on this:

Sometimes, the timing belt pulley on the crankshaft can come loose. If you use a VAG-COM (TDI timing checker) and it shows that the reading is outside the normal range, it could be a problem with the pulley on the crankshaft. You mentioned that it initially worked again with the new ESP, and that's because the installation of the ESP corrected the error by adjusting its position (angle). If the wheel is loose on the crankshaft, the whole thing will...
The timing is misaligned, and the engine is difficult to start or doesn't start at all. The wheel or coupling on the shaft is slipping, causing the wheel to have play on the crankshaft.

Otherwise, I would use VAG-COM to check all the temperature sensors on a completely cold engine, without starting the engine, because they should all display roughly the same values. If one sensor shows a different reading, it indicates a faulty temperature sensor, and that's likely the cause. Incorrect calculation of fuel injection.

See you then... Best regards, Gunnar.

joergs wrote:

23bar-16bar-17bar-24bar

That actually fits surprisingly well with the hopping times of 6.5, 5.3, 5.4, and 6.7 seconds, even though the differences in compression are relatively larger than the differences in time.

According to this, the "Hoppel" test can actually lead to the right track.

If you get another chance, you could try it on a steeper hill (or in a higher gear).
In my attempts, I aim for a duration of 3-4 seconds, which is short enough that the car doesn't continuously bounce from compression to compression.

At approximately 6 seconds , it is possible that engine friction could contribute a "unnecessarily" high proportion of the braking force, thereby leveling out the differences.

Or, the engine might have worn valve seals, which would allow pressure to leak out only in the top dead center (TDC) area, resulting in a consistent time requirement everywhere except just before TDC. Unfortunately, this uniform time allocation cannot be consistently hidden everywhere...

Quote:

Someone has messed with the engine. But who, and what...?

Possibly. Piston seizure damage from previous over-the-top (10c-) tuning by a previous owner...? 70,000 km is too early for normal wear and tear of this magnitude.

"Ulf, wasn't there talk of 300,000 km, or am I misunderstanding? I think the diesel contamination in the engine oil only occurs in the exclusive low-load range. If a longer distance is driven with consistently high engine oil temperatures, the diesel content should have completely evaporated, since its boiling point is significantly lower than, for example, engine oil." "When I occasionally drive on the highway (approximately 500 km), I notice that I always use a little less engine oil, which seems to support that theory. This happens at least once every two months."

Hi there,

My tips on this:

Sometimes, the timing belt pulley on the crankshaft comes loose. Can you determine... with VAG-COM (TDI Timing Checker)?

Thanks for the tips, but everything has already been checked and was all within the acceptable range... those were actually my ideas. If the timing wasn't correct, I certainly wouldn't have installed a pump that weighs 1000 stones.

To initially address the problem of difficult starting, the following has helped in both my Golf II and my current Golf IV.
Play the organ briefly, and then play it again.
This saves you from having to use the "7" key repeatedly and playing long, sustained notes.
It works quite well in my car, and it doesn't cost anything to try.

Regards,
I'm sorry, I don't understand. Could you please rephrase your request?

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Wasn't there talk of 300,000 km, Ulf, or am I misunderstanding something.

Besides this.

Jörg wrote:

I honestly can't believe that the ESP is broken after only 70,000 km

.
I can't find anything about the mileage in this thread...

Quote:

When I drive on the highway (approximately 500 km), which happens at least once every two months, I also notice that I use a little less engine oil, which supports this theory.

Hmm, your observations naturally lead to the conclusion that, possibly... Water from the blow-by gases in the crankcase condenses.

Nevertheless, I can't quite grasp the idea that diesel droplets from the nozzle can make their way through the "combustion zone" to the cylinder wall without being burned.
If someone could explain to me how that's possible...?

...
I spoke to the person who owns the car. He has had the car since January and bought it used. So, we went through the history of the three previous owners. The result is that the car should have approximately 300,000 kilometers.



Finding a suitable engine is proving very difficult. I contacted some repair shops in Thuringia today. Unfortunately, you feel like you're begging there, and you're treated accordingly, quite rudely. It's probably because their order books are so full that they don't bother to repair older, less profitable engines. And even when they gave me a price, I was already put off. The prices ranged from 2400 to 3800 euros for the engine block alone, without injectors, pump, or any attachments. That's quite a bit more than I had anticipated. Motor-Köln has the part for 1800 euros plus taxes, but even there, the service was very unfriendly. Does anyone know of another source? The scrap yard in Suhl, near me, no longer has any.'At the workplace, far from home, the only vehicle available was an old car with 200,000 km on the odometer, priced at €1500.'

joergs wrote:

result: the car should have approximately 300,000 kilometers (or miles).

I just wanted to help, Ulf!

Okay, here's a small update: The ESP is really in a bad state. I went to Boschens today and had them check it on their test bench. At the starting speed, it doesn't even come close to reaching the injector opening pressure. They said that around 600 RPM (revolutions per minute), the pressure is almost normal, and that would be the case throughout the entire speed range. According to the pump specialist, the cause is wear in the high-pressure section, which is likely due to high mileage or poor fuel. The pump is repairable. However, he couldn't give me any information about the cost, as he needs to see what parts are needed once the pump is opened.

The Audi was in the local mechanic's yard today. The standard procedure would have been to replace the starter and then the fuel pump. So, everyone was surprised to find a new, correctly adjusted fuel pump. In their opinion, the compression is the problem. The estimated cost from the VAG dealership for the engine block and replacement is well over €5000 . I think I've found an engine, and I would replace it if I'm allowed! My price would be half that. The price and the confirmed quality of my work should hopefully be the deciding factors against the Audi dealership.

joergs wrote:

that it does not even remotely reach the nozzle opening pressure. It was said that around 600 RPM (revolutions per minute of the engine), the pressure would be almost normal.

The cause, according to the pump specialist, is wear in the high-pressure section, which is attributed to high mileage or poor fuel.
Well, how certain are we that the broken pump is related to the 70,000 km mileage?

If they are sure, it might be insightful for the forum to read something about the typical sources of information that drivers rely on.
But the fact that these (hopefully original and intact?) diesel filters are still letting through so much dirt, to the point of damaging the pump within 70,000 km, also gives me pause...

'70,000 km is not necessarily a safe mileage. 300,000 km is more likely to be reliable. However, even with that mileage, it shouldn't cause such a pump failure. There are other cars out there, TDI models in particular, that have exceeded 400,000 km with their original fuel pump. Regarding fuel habits, I can only say that the current owner has only used Shell or Aral gas stations; he doesn't use independent gas stations. As for the previous owners, I can't vouch for them. The first owner, according to the vehicle registration, lived near the Polish and Czech borders.'

The pump will definitely remain in my possession for the time being, for research purposes. Perhaps it will help in the discovery of new insights...

so dala:

The engine has been removed since Saturday. It's quite a job to take out a longitudinally mounted engine. Hats off to the VAG engineers. They really thought that through...

Okay, here's the translation:

so, now here's the next thing. A refurbished engine block has been at home since Monday. However, when I removed it, I noticed that the starter ring gear on the flywheel is in very bad condition. About several teeth are missing, covering roughly 90 degrees. Some have been missing for a long time, and a few are new. According to the documentation, the flywheel has the part number 028 105 266 A. Based on the price, it should be a dual-mass flywheel. I've contacted several recyclers and repair shops yesterday and today. No one has a matching flywheel. This can't be right, can it? Who can help? Does anyone know a source that might have one? Could the flywheel 026 105 269 from the 90 horsepower models also work?

I'm at my wit's end. I was hoping the car might be drivable again by Sunday...

ah yes: vag could deliver, but at that price, it must be made of pure gold .

Sure, I'll translate the text for you. Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.



I have had good experiences with them... http://www.schneider-autoteile.de/ However, for inquiries, it's best to call directly, as it's more effective!

Great! Thanks!!! I'll be calling them a lot tomorrow.

ps: Unfortunately, the Schindelar didn't have anything, and neither did the r-a-r, etc.