Polo 1.4 TDI PD Pleullager kaputt ?? | Posts 16+

@Silverseraph:

According to the repair manual, only part number 50501 is approved for use with the AMF. Part number 50300+50600 is only suitable for TDI engines without a pump injector (PD) system (with the exception of the Lupo 3L TDI models with ANY/AYZ engines).

It could possibly be related to your damage.

Oops... yes, I thought the vehicle was compatible with longlife oil. On my Castrol SLX Longlife 2, it states "50601" and "50600".

'This isn't about the oil; it's about the damage. And back then, the three-cylinder and four-cylinder engines used the same connecting rods. In case of damage, it rattles and has poor compression; it should still be misfiring at idle. Fuchs 5-40 pump-injector engine oil is sufficient.'

It's about rectifying the damage caused, and if the workshop may have filled the wrong type of oil, they should be held responsible for it, in my opinion.

By the way, the 50501 oils are very often 5W-40, including the Fuchs oil. So there's no contradiction.

Hello,

What surprises me is that an oil pan can be removed so quickly. If they already have the engine head off, it's a piece of cake – it would take at most half an hour to have the piston, connecting rod, and bearings on the workbench.

Best regards,
Christian.

@roli752001
Okay, I don't want to start any arguments here, but first of all, the AJT is probably not a 4-cylinder engine, but a 5-cylinder engine , and secondly, the connecting rods from AMF were only used in Lupo and Polo vehicles. The part number is 045198401A. Therefore, as I already mentioned, I would be cautious about making such claims. And I don't think that 1.4 TDI engines are running around with connecting rods from the VW bus...

Dirk.

Hello again.

On November 29th, the decision will be made regarding whether or not Volkswagen will participate.

Based on your posts, I believe I understand that I should ask more specific questions about what is broken and whether it might be possible to simply repair it instead of replacing the entire engine.

Well, I hope the decision tomorrow will be in favor of my car and not for Volkswagen.

Thanks again for your posts, and I'll let you know tomorrow how it turns out.

'Scrambled letters, excuse me. My Passat PD with 85 kW had this problem, and a Ford Galaxy with a 90 hp PD engine also experienced it. That's why I'm making the comparison. I'm just a simple mechanic with a lot of experience, and I don't know all the VAG engine codes by heart.'

Evening!
Whatever oil was in there, and whether it contributed to the damage, needs to be investigated. First, locate the source of the damage, then weigh the damaged components against any remaining residue found (easily visible in the pan, but more difficult to find in the filter). Based on this assessment, a decision can be made about further action. Since the head and pan are already removed, I'll also remove the oil pump and flush/blow out all accessible oil passages. Before reassembly, check all accessible seals to ensure they are properly oriented and not damaged by debris.

Best regards, Robert.

Just to clarify things regarding oil: 50501 is the only oil approved for the AMF (you definitely won't find it at VW for 10 euros, although you can find it elsewhere). It wouldn't be the first AMF to fail due to incorrect oil (this can happen within a few thousand kilometers). From what I've heard, with incorrect oil, the turbocharger seems to be the component that fails first! However, I don't have any personal experience with this, as I've always used the correct oil...
I also experienced a similar speed-dependent clicking noise during the winter at around 95,000 km. I attributed it to a problem in the valve train and simply continued driving, and eventually, the issue disappeared... Therefore, I can't say for sure what it was.

Regards,

Olaf.

Hello everyone,

So, the last possible chance to hope for a goodwill gesture has passed. Now it's up to me; I can still call Volkswagen myself and submit a request for a warranty claim.

Okay, a different question: The engine that's currently in my car is going to be removed and replaced with a replacement engine. Will I get any money for the old engine? It's actually in great condition overall, except for a damaged connecting rod bearing.

Best regards to everyone.

With an AT engine exchange, the core charge is already factored in. You MUST return the old part; otherwise, it will be more expensive.

What about the oil standard? What does your workshop say about it?
You might be able to make them subject to a claim for reimbursement; in cases of goodwill, you will always retain a portion of the cost, but not in cases where there is a right of recourse .

Hello,

I'll check again and get back to you about the oil.

If you remember Dirk Reuper: ATU had put the wrong oil in his car. He eventually got them to finance the new engine after some pressure. Of course, VW is a much tougher company to deal with...

Regards,

Olaf.

@Olaf

My workshop is 95% certain that the problem is a damaged connecting rod bearing, and it wouldn't be worth further disassembly because, at best, only a new engine would make economic sense due to the costs involved.

But let's wait and see. I should receive a response from the mail or my workshop within the next 14 days, and then I'll know whether they will contribute or not.



Hello everyone .

Okay, well, I'm curious to see what happens, although I don't understand why there would be a new engine. I wouldn't buy a new car just because it has a flat tire. I guess it must be a really bad connecting rod bearing problem, and if they can only locate the defect 95% of the time... I wouldn't leave that shop until I saw the defective part myself.