Die ATU Horrorstory ! Darf soviel kaputt sein, oder Abzocke | Posts 16+

Which control arm bushings are you referring to? Is that the big one in the middle?
"The same thing happened to me; it was completely broken, and you could basically move each front wheel independently of the other."
The repair cost €280, including a new control arm because the old one had to be cut out.

The rumor that you can leave the shock absorbers in if they're not bouncing excessively is also just a myth. This "pressure test" on the fender, where you see what the car does, is only useful for determining that the shock absorbers are completely worn out. But that's all.

The car is not a total loss. Tires are wear items, and you'll have to replace them even if you buy a used car. They usually don't have such great tires anymore either.
Buying a used car, even a relatively new one, still involves certain risks.

But I think 2100 euros is quite a lot. "It's better to find an independent workshop."

@the last three

Thank you for your statement.

After consulting with a friend who is an expert in the field, I have found that...
and the master of a workshop, who could barely manage to...
Dealing with regular customers is similar.

The strut mount doesn't necessarily need to be removed, but the shock absorbers should be.
still be usable (power is being transferred/brake is engaged, car is swaying).
(It doesn't wear out quickly and also provides good grip even when wet.)

Of course, tires manufactured in 1999 with a tread depth of 4mm are still roadworthy.
'Tire tracks can also be identified even if the tires are worn unevenly (which is not the case here).'
perfectly adjusted. A tolerance of 5 minutes is already included.

The neutral master has a reasonable attitude and inspires my trust.
and double-checks everything (shock absorbers, control arms, etc.) - I'll let you know how it goes.

ATU in Munich really messed up.

The expensive offer also includes hub-centric adapters and the expensive Conti Sport Contact 2 tires.

By the way, the neutral opinion is that the Golf's chassis (Ql, SS) is overwhelmed by the tire size, and therefore it's realistic that the parts are worn out.

Thank you again for your statements.

Hi,

When tires are 99 years old, the rubber gradually becomes hard and brittle. The grip decreases. If you know that and adjust your following distance accordingly, that's fine.
You could try doing a full stop on a dry road before the tires are completely worn out and need to be replaced. Then, do the same thing with the new tires: you'll be amazed at the difference. But, as I said: If you maintain a safe distance from the car in front...

Regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Micha"

That's true, it could probably be better.

but I assume my Golf has the corresponding feature. The braking system and old wide tires still provide better deceleration than a comparable Golf CL with new 165 tires and its braking system.

Therefore...

As a matter of principle, I don't tailgate, even if I'm cursing the car in front of me.

Hi,

'These are definitely not repairs that would necessarily lead to an immediate sale of the car. Let the mentioned mechanic take a look and give you a detailed quote. Otherwise, please send me a price for the car.' Just as he is standing there now.

Regards,
arne

That's true, there's probably more that could be done.

but I assume my Golf has the corresponding feature. The braking system and old wide tires still provide better deceleration than a comparable Golf CL with new 165 tires and its braking system.

Therefore...

I refuse to tailgate, even if I curse the car in front of me. It may be true that an old Golf brakes worse, oh, nonsense... it will definitely brake, with reasonable certainty...

I think it's inappropriate to draw that comparison, because it's always a good idea to get the maximum safety you can at a relatively low cost; tires (even good ones) don't actually cost that much. I wouldn't want to have to drive with five-year-old tires that only have 4mm of tread left; fortunately, that doesn't happen to me, as I drive enough to avoid that problem.

The same applies to the shock absorbers; unfortunately, you don't really notice it because they gradually degrade, but since I already know that they're not the best anymore...

The situation with the car in front and the increased following distance is just as problematic. While you can theoretically prepare for that, what do you do when a child runs into the street from behind a car? Do you also maintain a greater distance in that case? Sometimes, every centimeter matters; I would have a problem if I had saved money in the wrong place.

Hello forum members.

Oh no! The thread is going in a direction it shouldn't.
That wasn't up for discussion.

Basically, I can agree with everything you're saying, without any reservations.

Nevertheless, a quality control engineer would not approve it for release if it didn't meet the required standards. There's a limit, as there is everywhere, and a tolerance range around it. I haven't reached either of those limits yet, as far as I can tell.

Always adhering to the highest possible level of safety would mean essentially avoiding the use of private cars. Pork, sports, beer, cigarettes, etc., included.

I wanted to discuss whether some workshops are planning to install new tires and shock absorbers as standard. Seriously, 70,000 km for shock absorbers? They showed me a different graph, the one that comes standard from the computer, for Category B customers (which is ridiculous).

Hmm... Nevertheless.
Do you know, or perhaps someone else knows, of a good address in Munich, either physical or online, for quality tires? Shock absorbers?

Best regards,

Do you know, or perhaps someone else knows, of a good address in Munich, either physical or online, for quality tires? Shock absorbers?

Reifen.com is located on Frankfurter Ring (at the corner of Ingolstädter Straße, if I remember correctly). Where Bosch used to be written on the outside.

Well... I didn't really start it... I didn't want to initiate such a discussion.

Just have the dampers checked somewhere else; then you'll know more. Ideally, a proper test can only be done with the dampers removed. The results you get from test benches where you drive the car onto them are really just estimates. 70,000 km is definitely a mileage where a damper could be worn out. The old 'press down on the fender and see what happens' test is only useful for identifying completely broken shock absorbers, which should have been replaced a long time ago anyway.

You can also check out www.reifendirekt.de for tires.

Hello ObenBeiMutti!
I unfortunately discovered your thread a bit late. It's really awful! But it's precisely ATU's business practices that are the reason why I preferred to search for a job as a master mechanic for half a year or even longer, rather than working for them for even one more day...

Regarding your problems: Uneven tire wear vs. wheel alignment... a standard argument used by mechanics. Forget about it! I can't imagine that the tires on the rear axle are also unevenly worn; at most, they might have cupping, and that's not something that affects the wheel alignment process at all. So, just implement it, but if it turns out to be too uncomfortable, you can always revert back to the original setup after taking measurements.

'Strut mounts... what I couldn't determine from the thread is whether it refers to the ball joints or the rubber bushings on the subframe? If it's the ball joints, then it's definitely not a simple job, with 3 bolts for the standard version and 4 for the plus suspension. If it's the rubber bushings, then ATU (a German auto repair chain) has a really great specialized tool that they use to make a lot of money – the universal hydraulic press 'Paschke' set. They'll coldly charge you for the entire set, which is designed to completely remove the entire control arm, 'misuse' it on the standing press, and reinstall it. However, they only remove it partially and squeeze the parts in while they're still attached (the same applies to the rubber bushings in the rear axle, as the tool obviously fits there too!).' That's why the Red Coats offer it even at the slightest tear! However, it's worth comparing with the accessories. A Meyle or TRW control arm is at least as good as an original part, but with a bit of luck (for example, at WHR in MUC), it might be cheaper than the entire process with Unger.

Tie rods... If they are in a playful mood, then it doesn't help, but even then, there's accessories!

'Domlager... if someone has given you this diagnosis, there might be something to it.' Unfortunately, the 'old' VW suspension systems are often used... (that reminds me, I also have one that's mushy, as I discovered recently... ).

Shock absorber test at ATU... go to a fortune teller at a fair; they're likely to have a higher accuracy rate than this amazing testing machine. If you really want a 'proper' shock absorber test, only the roadside assistance services with their equipment can help. But seriously: are the shock absorbers leaking? Does your car bounce more than necessary? If any of that is true, then the shock absorbers definitely need to be replaced. If not, then just keep driving. If the shock absorbers are really bad, then it's time to compare them! On Egay, complete kits (shocks and springs) for the III model are offered for under 200 euros, including a 2-year warranty.

All in all, I can offer you a great deal .

Come to my workshop; I'll send you the address via private message. Then I can take a look at your car and, as a master mechanic in an independent workshop that doesn't just focus on commissions, I can tell you what your car really needs and what it doesn't. By the way, we also have affordable tires. We don't really advertise it much, otherwise we (the three of us in the workshop) would be so busy during peak times that we wouldn't be able to do anything else.


Regards,

Dominique.

Hello,

I just read the creepy story.

I've been driving a Golf myself for years because it's simply economical, especially when something breaks down. You just have to approach it the right way. "I just paid 120 euros for four tires, and I've already driven 40,000 km on them. They're not bad at all!"

"And 25 years ago, I started working on cars. I've gathered the necessary tools for many things. But now I only do it as a hobby, and I always try to keep costs down. The entire family's fleet of vehicles only goes to a workshop in emergencies." I prefer to invest in equipment and tools.

By the way, I think it should be possible to achieve this for about a quarter of the cost. If you don't need to get everything out and you're not afraid of getting your fingers dirty.

Best regards, Rudi.

@D. Short and Isar 12.

Thank you for your statement.
It helps me to see things objectively.

I actually enjoy getting my hands dirty as a way to relax.
Ultimately, my self-esteem benefits from successful DIY projects.

Basically, I'm just afraid of working without an experienced supervisor.
Working on cars yourself can be more expensive and time-consuming than you might think.
can be fixed, and I need the car.
Especially when it comes to safety-related components, you shouldn't 'tinker' or modify them.
but should actually be able to 'tinker' or 'fix' things.
I might need to get back to you, Dominique, and I'm looking forward to it.
Thank you for your offer.

Best regards,

The Red Devils...

Short update.

The car was at the mechanic I trust.
Shock absorbers sealed and at 72-76%!!

Lower control arm bushings: OK, no issues found.

Lowering spring mount in good condition, no findings.

The mechanic said I should just use the tires I have for the season; he said they're fine.
(That's what I had planned too.)

The rear axle bearings are slightly corroded, but it's not critical.

etc. etc.

Only the right tie rod had a little play and needs to be replaced, while only the boot needs to be replaced on the left side.


The expert couldn't believe it at first, and couldn't understand it. Was I being tested somehow???

That's all there is to it.

That can't be true! Congratulations on saving up for your vacation money, or whatever it is.

However, I've heard similar things more often in the Munich area, especially from women. People who don't have any knowledge are bound to believe what the "experts" say is correct. Even if it's expensive, people generally don't like to compromise on their own safety. I've already experienced situations where the repair costs far exceeded the vehicle's value.

On the other hand, workshops don't make a living by giving good advice; that's something you have to understand. And as experts, they are responsible if they don't explicitly point out the defective parts. And yes, there are actually workshop testers, and they usually come from the company itself. And then they charge the workshop for everything they didn't find. I once received a letter asking if I would be willing to provide my car for a workshop test. Of course, all costs would be covered, and any defects found would be repaired.

Regarding doing your own repairs, I'd like to add that, with a supervisor like you call it, one should definitely work with someone when lacking experience and expertise. However, in most cases, this would likely lead to illegal, undeclared work. When working with a professional who has specialized tools, every step is usually done correctly, and you're just getting in the way. It's wonderful to have good friends; help without payment is, to my knowledge, still legal.

Have a nice weekend.

Rudi.

Hmm, that's true...

What I hadn't considered was that ATU employees also work on commission, and that when they achieve a high volume of sales – not just any sales, but good ones – they receive fantastic bonuses from management, such as a week in Ballermann.

Definitely, a big thank you to everyone here who offers advice and shares their experience; I truly feel well taken care of.

Beautiful WoE.