Mengenstellwerk: Definition & Applications | Posts 32+

Hi gamers!

PÖL => Vegetable oil, in its original state, meaning pure rapeseed oil (like the kind sold at Aldi or similar stores). Using too much of this in a fuel pump that's too cold can damage the pump.

Adjusting the measuring device: Forget about adjusting the measuring device by even a tiny amount (like the width of your thumb).

I have opened my pump approximately 30 times.

After the twentieth attempt, I built a measuring device using a micrometer screw and adjusted it in increments of 0.2 millimeters until the motor electronics stopped giving errors. (I didn't try using VAG-Com, as I didn't have that back then.)

With this, I was able to adjust the electronic spark advance (ES) so that it injected approximately 16% more fuel without causing any misfires. (This works well, contrary to an article here on the forum, if it's done correctly.) But be careful not to lose the setting.

If you set it too rich, the idle will cut out, just as you described. However, at that point, it was already producing a lot of soot. It wasn't a problem to make it produce soot even at 1.5 bar of boost, but that put me in a range that could damage the engine.

Der langen Story kurzer Sinn : Bewegt sich der Schieber leicht, so würd ich es mit einstellen versuchen, klemmt er im Leeraufbereich, schraub das ganze Mengenstellwerk ab, und schau ob du was machen kannst. Wenn nicht .... Bad luck.

Does your injection timing actually adjust, or is it stable?

The countersunk screw is slightly recessed, as you can see - I also cut the slot a little bit into the recess.


Another question: How much did the performance measurement cost?

Hello everyone,

Okay, the new pump is installed. The jerking is gone, and the car is running better than ever.
I have the impression that it pulls much better now. Also, on the test drive, we immediately reached 160 km/h (the car has never gone faster than 160 before). It pulls really well going uphill. I have the impression that it's a bit louder when idling. The fuel injection amount is only fluctuating by about 0.1mg, and that's happening relatively slowly.
The only downside is the price. (1180 euros)

"@garth: I was actually planning to adjust the fuel pump cover slightly (I quickly dismissed the idea of using a quantity adjustment device). However, I abandoned that plan after not making much progress with the adaptation of channel 1. After the adaptation, the idle was definitely smoother, and the fuel injection volume didn't fluctuate as much ("only" about 2mg), but the car started to jerk more noticeably. Generally, the pump seems to have been deteriorating significantly over the past week."
I couldn't observe the injection timing because I couldn't access block 000.
In the other block (I don't remember the number now), he was swaying slightly.
I have never put plant oil in the tank. Maybe the previous owner did. Biodiesel was sometimes used, but it won't be used anymore. I didn't want to have a performance test done.
A jet test combined with a compression test was being discussed. It would have cost approximately 50 euros.

I'm going to take a closer look at the LMM (lambda sensor). I read somewhere that some parts from Pierburg had a defect. And the company then re-tested all the ones that went to Audi and marked them with a blue dot.
Meiner hat so einen blauen Punkt. Würde ja dann heissen das das noch der erste ist. Currently at approximately 220,000 km.

Abschliessend möchte ich mich bei Euch allen für Eure Hilfe bedanken. Die war/ist wirklich super. Meight more like this.

See you then.
Markus.

zocker100 wrote:

I was unable to observe the injection timing because I couldn't access Block 000.

Hi Markus,

"Were there any errors or red numbers in the blocks? Can you now read the block? If it works now, it might indicate that the subsidy started too late before the repair (this was the case for me once -> nothing worked in 000). Just for fun, check if the kilowatt-hour screw is brand new."

'I'm sorry if I'm hijacking this thread, but I'm having a problem with my 1Z: It vibrates strongly when idling, which causes some additional symptoms (like rattling from the exhaust system). If I give it a little gas, so the idle speed increases only slightly, then the vibration disappears, and the engine runs smoothly. What could be the cause? Unfortunately, I don't have a VAG-COM or any other program, nor do I have an adapter to read the values. It can't be the KW screw, because the car starts without any problems (even when cold).'

Best regards, WarLord.