AVF TDI im Passat 3BG: Kaltstartproblem | Posts 48+

hello.

Try inserting the cable harness first with one end pointing downwards towards the transmission, and then pushing the other end upwards into the head.

I hope you understand what I mean.

"I understand what you mean, but I believe the splash guard is located directly in the middle, behind the connector. Therefore, the bending radius should be the same on the top and bottom. However, I'm not 100% sure. As I said, you can't bend the cable very much."

Greetings.

You can bend it quite a bit, but you have to be careful... it sounds silly, but it's true. Just loosen it and pull it inwards from the inside.

If you're still having starting problems, have you checked the starter motor speed?
If the starter motor isn't spinning fast enough, your engine won't start, or it will only start after a few rotations when it spins faster. Diesel engines are particularly stubborn and sensitive in this regard. Since you mentioned that it gets worse at lower temperatures, that's a crucial clue. Also, check the cables leading to the starter motor and the grounding connection!
You also wrote that it sounds like an old tractor, which is a good description! Before you replace everything, also check the starter motor.

Hi everyone.
So, the cable duct of the wiring harness is really difficult to bend without being afraid that it will break .

"The starter motor speed and wiring were already checked back then and deemed to be okay. However, the starter motor speed was, of course, measured while it was starting normally. I actually have a new starter motor at home, but I haven't had the time to install it yet, because the installation on the AVF engine is extremely complicated. The problem is that, in case of a fault, the starter motor actually spins quite quickly, but it's accompanied by a clicking sound. I'm not sure it's the starter motor anymore, but who knows? I've tried almost everything, and unfortunately, I haven't found the problem yet. Here's the list again:"

Coolant temperature sensor.
Fuel temperature sensor.
Intake manifold pressure sensor.
Crankshaft sensor.
Ignition switch.
Battery.
Spark plugs.
Fuel filter with a "Knackfrosch" (a type of noise dampener) attached to it.

What haven't I tried yet?
Relay for MSG (still not found)!!!!! Nobody can tell me!!!
Fuel shut-off valve (still haven't found it), and no one can tell me where it's actually located.
Starter.
LMM
Camshaft sensor.
MSG
Reciprocating pump.

I'm honestly at a loss for what to do next. Ultimately, I'll probably have to take the car to a in the winter, when the problem occurs more frequently, and have them look for the issue again. And that will cost money.

Regarding the brakes:
"It's working perfectly again, which is great. However, there's a minor issue that's annoying me. I cleaned the guides on the brake caliper perfectly and used a paste from ATU to lubricate them. I've always done it this way, and it's worked well. The workshop does it the same way, but with their own product. But regardless, what's the problem? The brake pads click in the caliper guides when braking forward for the first time. They don't click when reversing, only when braking forward. And that's annoying. So, what can be done about it? I'm grateful for any tips."

Greetings.

Are you sure you've installed the correct parts?
Did you reinsert the feathers (if there were any in it)?
Did you tighten the saddle?

Yes, definitely the right pads. And of course, everything was installed correctly. Nevertheless, they have a minimal amount of play. And that's where the clicking sound comes from, but it only happens when moving forward .
Hopefully, I didn't clean too thoroughly and remove too much material.

Greetings.

Mike3BG wrote:

Hi @all So, the cable duct of the wiring harness is really difficult to bend without being afraid that it will break .

Is it possible to increase the flexibility of the material, either with a warm engine or (to avoid burning your fingers on the hot engine) using a heat gun?
Or is that still not enough?

Munch.

Hi,

My gut feeling says, "It's not enough." But who knows? I'd like to find someone who has already done an AVF (Active Vibration Filter) installation in a Passat. If someone says, "It's possible," then I'll be brave enough to try it. If someone else has failed at it, then I don't need to start taking things apart. The old wiring harness wouldn't bother me; what I'm concerned about is the new one. I don't want to "disrespect" it in any way.

The issue with the pads is really frustrating. I'm not sure what to do. Should I complain about the pads? How do you even do that when you installed them yourself?

Greetings.

Mike3BG wrote:

Hi, The issue with the pads is really frustrating. I don't know what to do. Should I complain about the pads? How do you even do that when you installed them yourself? Greetings

If the abrasive pads are too small (please measure them), you can exchange them. However, don't blame your file if it doesn't work properly.
Please provide the part number so I can possibly find the dimensions.

Hi,

"These are the same pads that were installed before (part number 4B0 698 141N). The only difference is that they were Ferodo pads previously, and now they are Textar. Did I file them? I removed the dirt and rust with a large flathead screwdriver and the rest with a wire brush. That's all. This isn't the first set of brakes I've installed..."

Greetings.

Okay, I went to the , and he took a quick look at the issue. His comment was: "This happens from time to time." When removing the dirt, you always take away some material. There are also manufacturing tolerances in the pads. He recommended using the gray paste that they also use. He gave me a small container of it. He said it will become thick and bridge the gap between the pad and the brake caliper... usually .

Upon arriving home, I immediately disassembled the part and examined it very carefully. I still had the old linings, so I compared them. Therefore: the dimensions between the old and new linings are exactly the same. So, the dirt and rust were the reason why the old linings weren't "wobbling." The height difference is about 1mm, which isn't really much, I'd say. Then, I removed the inner lining from the piston again and re-bent the 3 clips --> more tension. After that, I applied a thick layer of the gray paste to the sliding surfaces and reassembled everything. So far, there have been no problems, but as I said, so far. I don't know how long the grease will last, especially after a wash with a pressure washer . If dirt, brake dust, and the like are added, it will certainly become a sticky mass that will last a long time, but I'm not quite ready to wash the rims yet .

What experiences have you had regarding the height clearance of the brake pads within the caliper bracket? Do your pads fit perfectly without any clearance, or do you have approximately 1mm of "space" when the pad is fully contacting the rotor on one side?

Here we go again with the starting problem. I'm really frustrated with the wiring harness and have my concerns. But surely, even VW wouldn't be that stupid to require the engine to be removed when you want to replace this wiring harness in the AVF engine.

Greetings.

I once had a problem with a Seat Arosa: a clicking sound at the front when braking.
Other coatings and Plastilube - OK!

The components shouldn't have any loose parts. They should fit snugly together and not rattle, but also shouldn't be too difficult to move.
Just wait a moment, but don't be afraid to clean the rims, because rust will also fill in the holes.

and it goes on...
The car is currently at the for a few days due to the damage from the break-in. Additionally, the four-link suspension on the front right side has been making a clattering noise for a few days. I'm curious which component has failed.
The said that regarding the PD cable harness, it must be deliberately heated with a hot air gun according to the specifications when installing it in the longitudinal AVF, and then it should be inserted from a slightly downward angle. He said that it's always interesting to do things like that during an AVF installation .

That's all for now. The brakes are still okay and aren't clicking (yet).
Regarding washing, my only concern was that the paste wouldn't be washed off immediately.

Greetings.

Quote:

That's all for now. The brakes are still O.K. and are (not yet) making any clicking noises.

Okay, just a little off-topic. Please stick to the subject next time, or start a new thread.