Polo 1.4 TDI PD Pleullager kaputt ?? | Posts 48+

To my knowledge, the BAY version was the new 66 kW variant from the A2 series with a VTG turbocharger.

Hello,

is from another forum, but it's an interesting thread about oil http://www.motor-talk.de/showthread.php?s=bcac1a9211c699c4&forumid=62&threadid=230315&perpage=15&pagenumber=10.

A little further down, there's information about codes 506 01 and 505 01. It's also worth reading in general.

Best regards,
Christian.

@roger and Olaf

"Definitely, the AMF engine (which means 'Atmospheric Multi-Fuel' and was produced with a 6n2 designation) is used in the Polo 9n BAY models, and it's the 55kW version! I've personally worked on many of them!"

Dirk.

P.S.: Errors in VW vehicles are not really a rarity, or are they ?!

What is the name of the 66kW 1.4 TDI engine (just out of curiosity)?

Thank you again for your efforts.

I called my mechanic again, and they told me that I'm using the correct oil. They confirmed it. I'll go back and show them the container of oil I used, and then we'll see what happens.

You are right; the correct oil with the VW specification 50601 must be used for that vehicle.


I'll get back to you when I know more. You've been a great help.


Thank you.

I'm completely lost now.
Didn't everyone here think that 5W40 (specifically, the 50501 specification) should be used in the 2000s-era AMF engines? I'm kind of speechless right now...

Yes, we agreed on that, and we still agree: absolutely NO 506 01 oil should be used!
What are they saying then? Does he have the right oil in it? At most, if you look at it from his perspective regarding the engine damage and compensation.

Again: DO NOT INCLUDE 506 01!

No matter what the workshop claims.
And be honest, showing the packaging? What's the point of that? It would just display '506 01' on it. But that information is already there (albeit encrypted as 'PD 0W30') on the invoice...

I don't understand Silverseraph anymore...

Hello, I feel like I'm the only one who is suspicious of this workshop. Or maybe what's happening there isn't being properly reported.

"Diagnosed a crankshaft bearing failure by listening and then contacting Volkswagen."
"To be 95% certain that the connecting rod bearing is faulty after disassembling the cylinder head."
3. No knowledge of oil standards.

So, either you're taking this too lightly, or they might end up suing someone and involving legal counsel. They would never do that with me.
I would never accept a new engine just because of a faulty bearing, but that's just a side note.

What actually causes a connecting rod bearing failure?
Is it possible to make a mistake there through certain driving techniques?


P.S. I also have an AMF in my 9N!

@joohn: Are you sure about that?! Does the engine code really appear on the stickers in the service booklet??? If I may ask, what year is it? And is it a re-import or something like that? I've never found it in a 9n before, even after checking with the dealer... interesting!

EDIT: The 66kW 3-cylinder TDI engine in the A2 should be the ATL.

Hello,

"Typical connecting rod bearing damage occurs due to insufficient oil film lubrication within the bearings. This can be caused by either too low oil pressure during operation, whether it's due to a critically low oil level or a faulty oil pump, or by an oil passage in the crankshaft becoming blocked."
Furthermore, incorrect oil viscosity in certain operating conditions can lead to insufficient oil pressure buildup. The oil film in the bearing must prevent contact between the bearing shell and the crankshaft journal. If the bearing area is dry, friction occurs, and at the high pressures involved, the bearing can quickly be damaged. The hardening of the crankshaft journal is usually only very superficial. When a seized crankshaft is ground down, this surface layer is removed. Re-hardening the crankshaft journal is very difficult, and it is rarely possible to achieve a usable service life. In such cases, replacing the entire crankshaft is typically required, which can be expensive.

The best insurance against a crankshaft bearing failure is:

Always ensure sufficient oil level and use high-quality oil of the correct specification.
Do not apply load to the bearings (do not rev up the engine) until sufficient oil pressure has been established.

I've only experienced two connecting rod bearing failures in my driving life.
1 x vintage Toyota Celica, poorly maintained by the previous owner.
1 x S62 BMW engine with 150,000 km mileage, despite the use of high-performance oil Castrol TWS 10W60.

Best regards,
Christian.

@Chris11:

The bearing shells of the connecting rods are usually softer than the material of the crankshaft, so when a bearing fails, it often leaves a layer of material on the crankshaft that can be removed with reasonable effort. Then you can install a new connecting rod bearing and it should be good. It's at least worth trying.

Hello,

If you catch it early enough and the hardening of the crankshaft journals due to localized overheating of the bearing surface hasn't yet occurred, then you might try it. However, I wouldn't have relied on that for my S62 engine.

Best regards,
Christian.

Okay, I'll agree with Matthias to some extent, because the workshop doesn't seem significantly more knowledgeable than the customer. Sorry, this isn't meant personally, but it needs to be said.
On the other hand, as chris11 already mentioned, the diagnosed damage is consistent with the use of incorrect oil. Therefore, for tactical reasons, I wouldn't question the diagnosis too much anymore and would proceed with the necessary repairs.
However, even with this seemingly straightforward case, I have my doubts whether the client will get his money back, given the customer's careless approach. I also cannot recommend consulting a lawyer in good conscience. It is quite possible that "silverseraph" will also be scammed by the lawyer because he won't receive a proper explanation of the situation.
@silverseraph
This shouldn't be taken as a personal attack, but I strongly advise you to take this matter more seriously, especially if you don't want to lose money (which is what I currently assume). In particular, authorized workshops rely on the good faith of their customers and shamelessly exploit that trust.
It would also be interesting to know which oil was used for the older oil changes. You mentioned that you always take the car to the same place, and it sounds like they're not very reliable.
I believe that the entire situation regarding Volkswagen can be resolved quickly and relatively smoothly. Continuing to discuss the matter extensively with the workshop at this point would likely not be productive.

See you then.

Olaf.

chris11 wrote:

You get the typical connecting rod bearing damage due to insufficient oil film in the connecting rod bearings. This can happen either because of too little oil pressure during driving, whether it's because the oil level is at zero or the oil pump is defective, or because the oil channel in the crankshaft is clogged. ... The best insurance against a crankshaft bearing failure is: Always ensure sufficient oil level and use high-quality oil of the correct specification. Apply load to the bearings (increase speed) only after sufficient oil pressure has been established.

Okay, that makes sense so far, but there was also a possibility mentioned of damage in the area of the piston pin.
Here's the translation:

"Question: How does the piston pin actually receive the oil it needs?"

"Regarding our engines, I would say that the oil turbulence, caused by the piston skirt cooling and oil mist within the crankcase, is the reason."