Brake Pads Replacement Rear Axle

Hello!

Okay, so it was at 150,000 km, but it was urgently necessary to replace something on the rear axle.
To replace brake discs, pads, and shock absorbers.
Everything went perfectly, but unfortunately, I'm having trouble with the brake cylinder.
not about the now wider new surfaces and disc.

I couldn't even push the brake cylinder back with a pipe wrench.
Releasing the parking brake didn't make any difference at all.

Could it be that the cylinder can't be pushed in any further at this point because it's so dirty? It's definitely true that new pads and rotors used to fit in there.

Thank you & best regards.
peter

Quote:

Could it be that the cylinder can no longer be pushed further in at this point because it is so dirty?

How about pressing and simultaneously turning clockwise to retract the rear brake pistons?

I'm going to assume that this is a car. Probably a VW.

Thank you for providing the information about the vehicle.

I'm just going to assume it's a VAG vehicle:

neubaupe wrote:

I couldn't even push the brake cylinder back with a pipe wrench. Releasing the parking brake didn't make any difference at all.

"Of course, you need a reset mechanism, or as BM already mentioned, you can't just push it, you have to turn it. The handbrake is integrated and therefore has an adjustment mechanism. Simply pushing it (with the correct amount of force) would damage your brake cylinder! Sorry, but if you're going to mess with the brakes, you should know what you're doing..."

Once, I was sold the wrong pad thickness for a G3 (new pads and discs from Bosch), and despite trying to return them, nothing could be done. I had to get different pads.

If you were fiddling with it like a moose with pliers... you probably already broke something. I, too, can agree with our "speedy Dutchman" (if the V6 ever works... }). Stay away from it if you don't know what you're doing. A search would have helped you, just like it has helped many others. There are also methods for resetting it there.

What good would it do to disconnect the train?

Try using a rethreading tool first. It's best to borrow a proper thread restorer. If you're trying to restore the threads without special tools, you need a bit of experience and know-how.

Then install everything and test it. You'll soon be able to tell if it's still working or not...

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

crazy Dutch guy (if the V6 ever works... )

After driving over 6,000 kilometers without needing to use a screwdriver, I'm still not completely satisfied...

Thank you to all those who answered - despite my amateurish questions.
(It's unbelievable how quickly one can start such silly threads .

Sure, please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. I will provide only the translation, without any explanations.

... what kind of vehicle it is...
It's a Seat Ibiza GT, 1.9 TDI 110 hp AFN, manufactured in 1998.

... the rear brake pistons??
Yes, the affected parts are the _rear_ brake pistons.

... but if you're going to use the brakes, you should already know what you're doing...
Basically, I usually have a good understanding of what I'm doing because I do extensive research online and talk to people I know before I start a project. In this case, unfortunately, that wasn't the situation, because I was watching a friend change brake pads, and he didn't retract the brake pistons, or I may have simply missed it while observing.

Uncoupling the train...what could that possibly achieve?
Really no idea - probably just a short-circuit reaction?!?

The search would have helped you, just like it has helped many others.
Sorry, I'm sorry, the thread was really unnecessary, and I want to apologize to everyone involved and who may have been offended.
Thank you again to everyone!

The topic is closed - I found enough information in other threads.
This thread can be deleted if necessary.

Best regards.
peter

Okay, no problem. Hopefully, everything went well this time. Please make sure to thoroughly clean the brake pad guides in the caliper mounting brackets (I have a brake file for that) and then lubricate them. The rear brake often causes problems because the pads tend to stick. I regularly (almost every year) remove the pads and clean them again. Otherwise, there's a risk of grooves, scraping pads, or unevenly worn discs (rust on part of the pad surface).

neubaupe wrote:

Because I watched a friend change his brake pads, and he didn't retract his brake pistons, or perhaps I missed that when I was watching.

If the handbrake is not integrated into the brake caliper (or perhaps other manufacturers...), then the piston functions like the one in the front. For example, MB uses a small drum brake in addition to the handbrake at the rear.

Given that it's the same vehicle as yours (or mine), I find it impossible that he didn't reverse. You probably just missed it...

Good luck!

In order for this thread not to have been opened for nothing, here is my experience report.
After successful installation: (Seat Ibiza, year 1998, engine code AFN, 1.9 TDI).

Rotating the brake piston to align with the position of the worn brake pads and disc (2cm thick).
'This did not result in any change in the position of the piston. Subsequently, a threaded rod was used...'
two nuts and a piece of iron (to provide support opposite the piston).
VW special (scam) tool reproduced.
This allowed me to apply pressure to the brake piston, which was achieved through the elasticity.
the iron piece expanded by about 2mm, and then had to be rebuilt.
I used a pipe wrench to rotate the piston 2mm to the right, and it moved.
pushed it backwards.

The strange thing was that after 2-3 millimeters, simply rotating the piston was enough to...
Move the piston backward. Then, no more pressure is needed.
This peculiar behavior is likely self-explanatory when one considers the internal...
Someone who is familiar with the construction of a cheap, low-quality brake caliper used by Volkswagen.

Thanks & best regards to everyone.
peter


Edit.
Please pay close attention to the alignment of the brake pads within the brake caliper bracket.
clean it (I have something like a brake file there) and then grease it.
Thank you for the tip!
In my opinion, the new flooring was quite difficult to install.
After removing it again, cleaning the saddle, and reinstalling it...
It was no longer a problem to move them in their holders.
Okay, hier ist die Übersetzung:

I haven't bolded anything, I hope that's not a problem.

Given that it's the same vehicle as yours (or mine), I find it impossible that he...
He didn't postpone it. That must have escaped your attention...
It was a Nissan or something Japanese. I have no idea what the rear brake calipers are like.
These models are based on the following principles.

The planting areas and grooves in the surfaces are not oiled, but instead coated with ceramic paste or, if necessary, with copper paste.

If it was installed dry, squealing noises and potentially seized brake pads won't take long to appear.

Rüdi wrote:

The areas where the lines are painted and the guide lines on the surfaces are not oiled, but instead are coated with ceramic paste, or if necessary, with copper paste.

Assuming you know that heat-resistant grease should be used, doesn't "Kupferfett" (copper grease) imply that it should be applied as lubrication?

You know, since the introduction of ABS, anything should ideally be copper-free. The sensors sometimes look quite good on some people who haven't used copper paste, and then a failure doesn't take long to occur.

"Yes, I also don't really like using copper grease. It's usually some kind of gray paste, some heat-resistant brake grease or something. I think it's probably this ceramic stuff. Otherwise, you just have to be careful and not use too much. So far, I haven't had any problems."