If you're using larger nozzles, then use the ones from the 1T model; they should have a hole diameter of 0.260mm (AFN 0.205mm). However, they require a 11mm pump to avoid losses due to poor atomization; but for racing and short-term operation, it wouldn't matter - and neither would the smoke. A 10mm pump, on the other hand, draws less power.
LLK (which is larger than the water cooler in the Golf).
There's a small one, with correspondingly low aerodynamic drag, and possibly higher thermal capacity (made of solid aluminum, welded) - you often see them at auction houses...
Since we are just hobbyists, we will either try tuning with 10 cents and a centrifugal fan, or completely without an ECU, like the first diesel engines.
It might be possible to find a mechanical 11mm pump – you would need to research which vehicles used such a pump. Fiat commercial vehicles might be a good place to start looking. Ducato 2.8TD?! (By the way, it's an Iveco engine).
To get the turbo to spin, there is probably only one RPM and no acceleration at low speeds.
Yes, while such modifications may produce spectacular results on a test bench, they are not practical for everyday use. (Okay, who actually drives a dragster to the grocery store?)
Regarding the RPM, we think it will probably start somewhere between 2500 and 3000.
and hopefully correctly.
With the appropriate amount of fuel injection, it will produce soot, but the turbocharger will engage earlier. It might also be possible to grind the cam lobes of the camshaft, which would increase the lift, resulting in greater airflow and thus more power at low RPM, as well as enabling the turbocharger to engage earlier.
Surely, you could achieve that with a tuning setup costing only 10 cents: diodes and then a very small resistor.
I wouldn't rely on that - if I set my 10-cent tuning too aggressively, the EDC (Electronic Damping Control) goes into emergency mode under full load and higher RPM - and in extreme cases, the engine will shut off (I've already experienced that

).
Then you'll also need head studs instead of the cylinder head bolts, because mine start to fail around 125 kW.
Potentially interesting: AFN TDI with 246 hp / 524 Nm. www.prof-turbo.de