ESP Calibration: With or Without Calibration Pin?

Golf IV, manufactured in 1998, ALH engine, 182,000 km, all original.

Hello everyone,

Because the warm start is quite bad,
I would like to adjust the static settings of the ESP (Electrostatic Precipitator) and then monitor the results.
Currently, according to the VAGCOM-TDI graph, the injection timing is in the lower third, and occurring late in the cycle.
(VW workshop, now closed)

Does the pump need to be secured with a dowel, or is it sufficient to simply loosen the three screws and slightly rotate the pump?

I'm doing this for the first time, and I'm really hesitant to mess up the settings completely.

Thank you.

To fix a self-priming pump that isn't working, simply loosen and rotate the pump.

However, I doubt that a late start actually worsens the warm-up process.
Normally, a cold start is problematic when the timing is "too late."

Have you ever checked the central screw of the KW (shock absorber)?

m;

Is there also a problem with the crankshaft bolt on the ALH engine? I thought that only affected the 1Z engine.

The warm start problem has been present since the beginning. He has already had the timing belts replaced twice.
The cold start performance isn't really that bad, but there's definitely room for improvement.

And because I don't want to install a new starter motor, but I can rule out all other possible causes, it seems the ESP is the only remaining culprit. According to the VAGCOM graph, the pump is within the acceptable range, but it's located in the lower third, between the center line and the lower limit.

I would really like to try and see if there's any improvement if I adjust the timing of the pump to be more advanced.

P.S. If I'm driving on the highway and briefly stop the engine, then restart it shortly after (less than 1 minute), it starts immediately when I turn the key, like a cold start. However, if I wait longer, it takes much longer to start, around 2 seconds.

HI.

In theory, it's possible to remove the KW bolt from any R4 TDI engine, because (as far as I know) it's always fastened using surface pressure, and I've also read about cases where 12.9-grade bolts have been sheared off.

If the engine starts perfectly well 2 seconds after a drive, but doesn't start 2 minutes after that same drive, I really can't see the fuel injection as the "culprit."

It's already a completely nonsensical engine control unit (ECU) that starts doing some kind of show and changes its behavior after more than 1 minute of idling.

How about air in the diesel fuel?
Is it possible to rule that out completely?

Or how about new nozzles?
"2x ZR" means that the engine has more than 180,000 km (or 182,000 km, oops) on it, so new tires are never a bad idea. And going with 205 size tires will also make driving more fun.
You can still adjust the start of the spray with the new nozzles .

m;

Hi Dieselmartin, there's no air in the diesel itself, only when the return valve directs the fuel directly into the tank do you see tiny bubbles forming at the crimped connection to the clear hose. These are just a few very fine bubbles.
Luckily, I've finally managed to solve that problem after a long search and a lot of trial and error.

However, the warm start problems with the ALH are apparently typical and have been a topic of discussion for years.

I'd like to replace the nozzles, but the prices are a problem...
The car consumes between 4.8 and 5.3 liters, so new injectors would never pay for themselves. Wouldn't that also affect the pump? It would then have to deliver a higher pressure. I once drove 40,000 km exclusively on biodiesel. I'm afraid the high-pressure part will then leak.

However, it now lacks a bit in terms of top speed and low-end torque.

Would using 205 injectors increase fuel consumption? What other effects can be expected (noise level, pump performance, power output, black smoke)? I've considered buying injectors from a tuning shop before.

Unfortunately, the car has some other issues (shock absorbers, clutch, rubber bushings in the suspension, etc.), which is normal given the mileage, as everything is still original equipment.
'...so that if major repairs are needed, I would be more inclined to sell the car.'

I'm a fairly frugal person, and since I don't live with my parents anymore, I need to make sure that any investment of 400 euros is worthwhile.

Okay, so...

Leaks in the high-pressure (HD) section are not related to the injection pressure. The leak occurs in the seal between the low-pressure (LD) and high-pressure (HD) sections, where only "normal" pump internal pressure exists.
This gasket can also be replaced relatively easily.

With 205 injectors, you'll easily pass the emissions test, and the fuel consumption depends on your driving style, not the injectors themselves. If you want, you can consume more fuel, but in return, you'll get more power. If you continue to drive conservatively, nothing will change.

Duesen costs Rainer 240 euros.

I had mine replaced at 160,000 km or so, and I was very satisfied with them (until last Friday, when it failed at 232,000 km). Now, my colleague is very satisfied with them .

m;

Hi,

Okay, that sounds pretty good. So, no modifications are needed on the pump.

How much fuel did your diesel engine consume?

Regarding the pump settings...

'I was at VAG today about the screws on the impeller... according to the repair manual, they should be replaced (stretch bolts). The parts specialist told me that there are two different types of screws, one with a tapered head and one with a flat head, depending on the impeller.'
Great, I have no idea what kind of tire is on it.

Does the adjustment sometimes work without new screws??? Or do those things break off when you tighten them again???
Then it will really start to get heated.

HI.

I've already passed the car on to a colleague, but take a look for yourself:
http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailansicht/104293.html

Don't be alarmed by the absolute values; the G3 Variant TDI has a relatively short gear ratio, which means it might not be as fuel-efficient as a standard G3 TDI.

But 4.73 was an absolute record.

m;

flightmaster wrote:

Does the adjustment ever work without new screws??? Or do those things break off when you tighten them again??? Then it will really start to burn.

Hello flightmaster!

I have loosened the screws on the ice injection pump adapter about five times. So far, nothing has broken off. After replacing the timing belt, I initially adjusted the injection start statically. It slowly shifted backward, perhaps new expansion screws are used to prevent this. Now I have VAG-COM, and the injection start remains constant, exactly on the middle line. Even without new screws.

To adjust it, I disconnected the pump wheel and jacked up the front right side of the vehicle. I put it in 5th gear and turned the engine by the wheel. This is quite delicate and much easier than removing the covers to access the crankshaft pulley. I used the TDC (Top Dead Center) mark on the flywheel as a reference. One degree is approximately 2mm.

I'm just wondering how you plan to tighten the screws without a centering device.


Regards, mcgregg.