Clutch Slipping: Effects on Engine Power and Performance

hello


I'm theoretically interested in what the consequences might be if you continue driving with a slipping clutch that's engaged in fifth or fourth gear.
It's possible that the momentum could also be lost.

If that's the case, what will break?

Here's the translation:

"Background of the issue: I've driven several thousand kilometers with a slipping clutch before. Of course, I didn't intentionally make the clutch slip, and I drove very carefully. Now, after replacing the clutch, it's starting to slip again, but in a rather strange way, specifically in the lower gears."

I thought that if the suspension was actually broken, the mechanic would notice it and tell me.

Or, alternatively, the mechanic might have made a mistake – because after it slips in the second or third gear, it seems like the clutch isn't fully engaging. Perhaps something was overlooked during the installation?

There's nothing to adjust there. With a new clutch, there shouldn't normally be anything to adjust either - I'm assuming that the clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing were all replaced.

I would be very grateful for any helpful information. I'm currently driving with a restricted engine output, and I would have to disassemble and replace everything myself without any further assistance.

"Thank you."
best regards, uwe

or, another thought:

The only thing that can be adjusted or changed is the hydraulic line, which, according to my theory, functions like the brake, using the same fluid.
And if the venting wasn't 100%, then it would have to be the case that I would need to pump, like with air in the brake system, in order to disengage the clutch, right?

THANK YOU.

Has the engagement point on the pedal shifted after the clutch replacement?
When does the clutch engage/disengage now?
A worn clutch disc will naturally cause the opposite side, the flywheel/dual-mass flywheel, to turn blue, which can lead to further wear or jerking even after replacing the clutch. The flywheel should have been replaced along with the clutch.
I don't believe that the new clutch is slipping or dragging. There would have to be significant wear for that to happen, and if there was, the flywheel would have been replaced at the same time.
No, I think it's more likely a manufacturing defect.
I would try bleeding the system and see if there's excessive pressure in the line when the clutch slips.

Thank you for the response.

The pressure point has always been very, very late. Often, just having one foot on the pedal with minimal pressure is enough. Of course, that's also annoying if you're often lazy.

Even after the exchange, the pressure point did not change.

I'm going to bleed the system.

I think I'll have to take it apart and investigate to find the cause, as the problem might be somewhere else. It's possible the oil seal is defective, and the fluid might be slightly oily - I've had to replace the timing chain oil seal before.

THANK YOU
best regards, uwe

It could be oil, but it's unlikely, because if it had been noticed during the initial exchange, there would have been a need for action back then.
And it won't get worse that quickly if everything was clean beforehand.
One possibility is the slave cylinder; has it been replaced, and is it too long? Or does the car have a central release mechanism?
That's why I wrote: Try opening the bleed screw to see if there's any residual pressure that's slightly disengaging the clutch, even though the pedal isn't pressed!
The late engagement point also suggests that the clutch spring is not fully unloaded.
Yes, it's probably time to remove it.
Did you have it done? Then take it back!

"By 'very late,' do you mean completely out? So, even a small amount is already too much?"

Okay, the first step, and also the easiest one, would definitely be to bleed the system.

"I had that done, but it was quite a while ago. I have three of those cars, and one "good" engine control unit (ECU) - and the problem only becomes noticeable with THAT specific ECU. That's why it didn't become apparent to me until now, after 2 years or ~50,000 km. Before that, THAT good ECU had been in the car for about ~250,000 km..."



Anyway, I'm venting...

THANK YOU
best regards, uwe

Yes, if you have 3, you can directly compare the pressure points!
If the clutch slips in the lower gears, it will definitely slip even more in the higher gears!
Does that mean an increase in performance through a different engine control unit (ECU)?

Yes, I will replace the control unit.

The second TDI is an automatic. The third one is "still" disassembled .

"However, the engagement point was definitely always 'too late' - but I had gotten used to it, and I was happy for 5 years. Then, at 250,000 kilometers, the clutch started to slip slightly in fifth gear, and then also in fourth gear. This happened at the right RPMs, where the engine has power. In my opinion, this is perfectly normal at 250,000 kilometers and almost 400 Nm of torque."

"But now, the clutch is slipping in fifth gear, and not really in fourth. It mostly slips in third gear at around 2000 RPM for a short time... which is strange!!"

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hello"

Hello, I assume you've replaced the entire clutch kit, meaning the clutch disc, release bearing, and pressure plate? If that's the case, then the problem is likely with the master or slave cylinder. They might not be releasing properly, which could be causing the clutch to be constantly engaged to some extent. This is a common issue with four-cylinder engines.
The flywheel should have been inspected during the clutch replacement. If it's discolored (blue), it has become too hard and no longer provides the necessary friction to transmit the torque.