Clutch Throw-Out Bearing: Causes and Solutions

Hello everyone,

"For the past few weeks, I've been experiencing a problem with my clutch: the engagement point is shifting. In the morning, when I start the car, it engages very late. After I've used the clutch a few times, it engages as normal. If I drive on the highway for a longer distance without using the clutch, it starts engaging late again. However, it's not slipping yet."

Recently, the brake fluid and the hydraulic fluid in the clutch system were changed. And this problem has been occurring since around that time. Could it be related to air being trapped in the system? If that were the case, wouldn't the clutch be disengaging poorly?

"Well, I'd start by looking into that, Roger... how exactly did it get changed?"
If I were to bleed the system again, it would actually happen quite quickly with our cars. Normally, you can access everything without having to remove half a ton of parts.

It would be helpful to push the bottom filter housing (BFK) upwards through the vent nipple.

as it should be done...

Quote:

Recently, the brake fluid was changed, including the hydraulic fluid for the clutch. And this issue has been occurring around that time. Could it be related to the fact that there might still be air in the system?

There should be no air trapped inside, as the system will self-bleed as long as there is some pressure remaining.

I'm more inclined to think that one of the cylinders has developed a leak. Sometimes, the sludge that accumulates over time can keep the system sealed. If that sludge is flushed out, it can (but doesn't necessarily) cause a leak in something that previously seemed fine.

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Well, that's where I'd start looking, Roger... how exactly did it get changed? If I were to bleed the system again, it's quite quick with our cars; you can actually access everything without having to remove half a ton of equipment.

With a bleeding device that also refills from the top. However, it didn't work very well; afterwards, I still had air in the brake lines, even though the brake pedal was constantly depressed.

But according to BM, that shouldn't be a problem.
The theory of BM with resolved deposits also fits with the observation that the pedal was temporarily stiff after a long AB run, just before the BF change, as others have reported. This is no longer the case after the change; in fact, it seems to be consistently a bit easier now.

On the other hand, a leaking master or slave cylinder, in my opinion, would lead to a gradual loss of the disengagement force applied via the pedal, which would mean the clutch would disengage less effectively, right?

Well, it depends on how leaky it is. Why don't you try removing the clutch and see what you find there first?

I experienced the same "phenomenon" with my Golf twice within 15,000 km, and it gradually got worse.

In both cases, it was a faulty sensor cylinder.

@matthias:

Unfortunately, screws are out of the question for the time being. I also no longer have access to the venting device. Is there a simpler way to vent the system temporarily?

Okay, I also suspect a leak. You can actually check the master cylinder quite easily; you'll need to remove some trim to access it. Can you see the brake fluid reservoir clearly? Is it clean? Then check if the fluid level is dropping. But I would quickly check for leaks; it takes about 20 minutes, and you'll have peace of mind before anything happens.

So, my "BF" (presumably referring to a stock or investment) has been exactly the same for weeks.

Did you mean the donor?
So, the one on the pedal?

I'll check that out, but the installation involves "some" effort.
"Lüftung, ABS/ESP unit, pedal assembly, etc. I'll start by doing a visual inspection. According to the repair manuals, everything needs to be removed for the ESP system."

And do I only have access to the clutch when the gearbox is disassembled?
I think I'm getting closer to buying the Scirocco faster than I'd like .

Regarding the hydraulic system, I also need a set of summer tires (225/45/17) and a complete set of front brake pads and rotors. After 120,000 km, the original equipment is worn out. I didn't want to invest that much more. Right now, I don't have the opportunity to repair the clutch myself. The repair shop is going to be quite expensive...

No, I mean the sender, which is located on top of the transmission and can be removed. ESP and related things have nothing to do with it. You can simply access it there. If necessary, remove the battery. Brakes for the front axle? I still have the original ones on. However, the replacement isn't that expensive. Hmm, so I think you'll achieve a better price when reselling, thanks to the completed restoration work. And then it's supposed to become a sports car golf?? Currently, I think the market for achieving our desired selling price is quite dead. My Golf concept, therefore: Drive it until the economic stimulus package 20 .

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

No, I mean the fuel pump, which is located on top of the transmission and can be removed. The ESP and other things have nothing to do with it. You can simply get to it there. If necessary, remove the battery. Brakes for the front axle? I still have the original ones on. But the replacement isn't that expensive. Hmm, so I think you'll get a better price when you resell it, considering the work that's already been done. And then it's supposed to become a sporty Golf?? Currently, I think the market for achieving our desired selling price is quite dead. My Golf concept is therefore: drive it until the economic stimulus package 20

.

Well,

A more practical option would be an A3 Sportback. The competition will likely be between these two. However, the A3 has the advantage of being a more mature model, while the Scirocco hasn't even undergone its first model year update.

My Golf has some additional signs of wear and tear.

- Water leaks into both door assembly housings when it rains.
- The driver's side door is misaligned, causing slight white paint abrasion on the top of the B-pillar. It seems to be making contact while driving (!). It definitely doesn't touch when closing, but the abrasion keeps reappearing.
- The dampers are getting soft, and the stabilizer rubbers are worn out.
- The eFH switch on the driver's door is not responding to the initial touch.
- Both electric floor heaters no longer have end-of-travel stops at the bottom, causing them to bang at the bottom (requiring manual braking, which is annoying due to the faulty tip switch).
- The third gear still grinds when shifting quickly.
- The entire body creaks and groans on rough roads.
- The oil pan is starting to leak.

I'll observe it for now. It seems to be getting a little better as the outside temperature increases.

Okay, well, in my case, everything is still nice and tight and working well. Now, it does make some creaking noises, and there's not much you can do about that... except buy a new one .