BLS Power Rail Glow Plugs: Repair & Replacement

Hi.

I wanted to get the vehicle inspection done quickly today because it's due this month, and I thought I would have some time.
It should be a quick process on a diesel engine that's only 3 years old.

It was also quick, at least getting the new license plates, because I didn't want an "AU" blind plug (a device to bypass the emissions test). All the other technical inspection (HU) tests were done in 5 minutes... only the emissions test (AU) took longer!

The stupid BLS (presumably a piece of equipment) keeps throwing incandescent bulb errors, even though everything seems to be fine.
The error is easily found even with a Google search, so it's likely not an isolated case.
I had forgotten that the candles are subject to emissions regulations.

So, it's not an OBD-AU test, but a "rolling test." Therefore, we need to exit the garage and warm up the engine again.
With the water and oil both at 90 degrees, I then gave it full throttle... The first attempt confused the tester (the Bosch device). The next four attempts were then registered as 0.00.

Haha, I knew that before .

At least I've now proven the effectiveness of the DPF .
m;


The recurring error:

Quote:

Address 01: Engine Label file: RKS\03G-906-021-BLS.lbl Control unit part number: 03G 906 021 QJ. Hardware: 03G 906 021 AB. Part and/or version: R4 1.9L EDC G000SG 1984. Encoding: 0000072 Operating number: WSC 39799 133 20514 "One error found:" 005660 - Spark plug, cylinder 3 (Q12): Interruption. P161C - 000 - - - Intermittent. Environmental conditions: Error status: 00110000 Error priority: 3 Error frequency: 5 Mileage: 126,577 km Time: 0. Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 10:13:32 Environmental conditions: Speed: 819 RPM Speed: 0.0 km/h Last: 0.0% Voltage: 14.52 V Binary value: 00101100 Temperature: 15.3°C Binary value: 10110000 Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0

Hi Martin,

It's possible that the candle itself has a loose connection at the filament.
I would just like to replace spark plug number 3 with a new one.

Quote:

1984

Is there a software update available?

Best regards, Rainer.

I hadn't planned on overthinking things, but I guess I'll have to now.

I suppose I'll have to consider getting an update done, but that's always a hassle because of scheduling, the workshop, etc.

Okay, I'm going to buy a new candle today.
But what is the difference between them again?
N 10591602
N 10591603

m;

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

This morning, the Q3 error was still present. After clearing it, the tractor was, of course, "not ready."
Even after warming it up for 30 km on the highway, it was still "not ready."

Now that I drove from the TÜV (technical inspection agency) to work this morning and am now driving through the city again, it's "completely ready," meaning I could have avoided getting a sick note and being forced to take time off.

Damn, if only I had thought of all this beforehand, I would have "broken it in" first.

Here's a tip for everyone hoping for an EOBD AU .

m;

Hi Martin,

According to autoteile.net, the same product code is listed for both VAG part numbers.

Best regards, Rainer.

MIST.

Bought a candle and clipped off the power strip, and LOOK WHAT HAPPENED:

She has a problem with cylinder number 3.
The pole terminal is slid onto rail Z3 and rattles (which 1, 2, and 4 do not).

How is part number 038 971 782 C installed on the wiring harness?


There is still a warranty on the machine.

Greetings.
m;

In your case, the situation is as follows:

The wiring harness 038 971 782 C has been used by VW since 2002, in a wide variety of models. The connector bridge is supplied as a spare part with a few meters of cable, which is then cut to the required length and connected as needed.

It's better to do it yourself; you can't really trust VW workshops.

Schema:

The four cables from the connector block run to the 14-pin compact connector located near the left headlight.

Candle 1, black/red --> T14/8.
Candle 2, black/white --> T14/7.
Candle 3 sw/gn --> T14/6
Candle 4 black/gray --> T14/5

From there, the cable runs to the heating control unit located under the electrical box --> "Relay" 457.

Do you still have the contact numbers saved in the T14?

Thank you.
m;

Depending on which side it is, the cable itself has a cross-sectional area of 1.5.



For part number 1J0973837 (connector):


Here you can find 1.0 and 2.5 repair cables: (These cables each have 2 pins of this type!)


1.0:

000 979 132 and 000 979 134.


2.5:

000 979 226



For part number 1J0973737 (socket):


Here you can find 1.0 and 2.5 repair cables: (These cables each have 2 pins of this type!)


1.0:

000 979 131 and 000 979 133.


2.5:

000 979 225

That looks good, that's a great thing.


I'm wondering about this now, because I have a break right at the beginning of the GSK (gearbox), which is where I'll be connecting the cable.
I tend to prefer "very close to the track" because then I have to disassemble as little as possible.


Opinions?

m;

Mount the waterproof 4-pin connector externally. You can find them at motorcycle parts stores, and that's usually good enough. I'm also a fan of heat-shrink tubing with adhesive lining, but if the rail fails again, using a connector like this will be the best solution.

Best regards, Roberto.

Normally, the rail doesn't cause any problems, and 15 euros isn't a lot of money for the part. Solder the cables of the new one about 5-6 cm behind the output of the old one, and that should be it.

5 cm from where?
From the T14 or from the end of the polyurethane rail?

I would have soldered it 5 cm behind the rail because the rail is definitely damaged.
"This way, I can save money by troubleshooting the entire line down to the T14."

P.S. The wiring harness costs 25 EUR.

5cm behind the rail, of course . With heat shrink tubing, that's not a problem, the main thing is that you don't use those cheap, quick-connect crimp connectors! That junk that VW uses for repairs.

Yep, that's the way to do it.

I just need some time and light right now...

m;