AAT Default Settings: Guide & Optimization

Hi everyone!

This question is especially dedicated to AAT drivers.

I would like to know which channels are worth adopting and what values should be set for them.

I read out measurement block 000 and got the following results:

AAT Version 3.

Code:

Leerlauf Werte:        SOLL               Bei mir         Grundeinstell.mod.        1. Motordrehzahl       33-36              35-36                    55-56 ? 2. Einspritzbeginn     45-60             110-114                   93-96?     3. Gasbedalst.           0                   0                       0 4. Einspritzmenge       5-25               13-15                   11-14 10. anges. Luft         41-75             117-120                    120

Yesterday, I adjusted the fuel injection start time to the target values, but this morning, after experiencing starting problems, I measured it again. Now these values! What's going on?!

I noticed the value of the air being drawn in.

Here's the question: How does your vehicle react when you switch to the default settings mode?

Symptoms I'm experiencing: increased idle speed (values) and flickering of the glow plug indicator.




cu: Marko

Hi,

Here's just an older thread with my (resolved) problem:

/viewtopic.php?t=1880&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=einspritzbeginn

Hi Markus!

Okay, so I've tried that, but when I try to slowly adjust the values to the target range, the starting behavior gets worse.

Now, with values between 92 and 95, there are absolutely no problems.
Values between 55 and 59 already make it more difficult (requiring a slightly longer playing time).
If I try to go any further, it won't work anymore.


cu: Marko

Hello,

Two things...

Quote:

I would like to know which channel adoption makes sense and what values should be set for each one?

• Considering the problems you've had in the past, it might be a good idea to stay away from your cars.
• Never change a running system.

I don't understand what you're trying to achieve with your adoption, nor where your problem lies.
The only problem I see is that you don't know what you're doing.

What bothers me the most is that you only provide superficial answers to follow-up questions, regardless of who is asking.

• Either you don't care about your problem
• or you have no one else to turn to
• or you drink a whole pot of coffee before each post and smoke some good stuff

In all 3 cases, you should perhaps look for the solution within yourself, and not waste other people's time (reading your post), money (server costs, loading your post), and nerves, or what?

Best regards, Rainer.

Quote:

From: Marko To: Rainer K. Written on: 2003-05-30 14:04 Title: Hi! Hi Rainer! Where do you have the problem, if I were to ask people? I have already described the problems sufficiently. I was just asking if anyone had ever done it before! Man Rainer, I have a feeling that you're targeting certain people and not giving them any chance at all.

• I still don't understand your problem. Maybe I'm just too stupid to understand it. You haven't given me a reason why you want to adjust the injection timing, nor have you explained how you changed it.
• I don't understand what you're trying to achieve with your adoption and what you mean by it!
• If someone asks a reasonable question, they will get a reasonable answer. If someone asks 'I did something, now something else isn't working, WHAT COULD IT BE?' and they react so superficially to follow-up questions, then any further discussion is a waste of time.

Okay, I'm asking you for the very last time:
What problem do you have with the vehicle (please don't say 'because the values don't match', or I'll kick you out immediately)? So, what's wrong with your car? Does it not start, does it smoke black when you accelerate, or what?

Quote:

There are hundreds of other people who ask much more... problematic questions, and you give them better answers than you give me.

To be honest, I can only think of one right now.

Quote:

I think it's unfair!

Hm... I honestly don't.
Tell me a reason why I should guess what you're doing to your car and drill 100 holes, and why you're doing it.

You now have your chance, so make the most of it!

The problem is the injection timing.
When the engine is cold, it starts very poorly, but when it's warm, it starts perfectly.
I've already tried following Markus's advice, but it's not working.
The attempt to adjust the injection timing to the "target values" resulted in even worse starting behavior.
What else can be done to address the problem?

Regarding the adaptation channels (sorry, there was a mistake earlier): I would like to know to what extent someone has modified the settings (using VAG-COM) in order to achieve a more optimal performance.
Because it allows adjustment of 5 parameters: fuel injection quantity, idle speed, air mass, injection timing, and starting quantity.

"Because mine has become sluggish at higher speeds (above 180 km/h) compared to before, and as I mentioned, it has cold start problems."


Can one easily change one's fundamental mindset?


greetings: Marko

Marko wrote:

The problem is the injection timing.

How did you arrive at this diagnosis, and what other potential causes of a poor cold start have you ruled out?
"What are the reasons for excluding each of the other possible errors?"
Did you adhere to the specified conditions in your initial post when providing the actual values?
Tell me!
Regarding the values you provided in the default settings mode, the values 7 and 9 would still be helpful. What were those values?

Marko wrote:

When the engine is cold, it starts very poorly, but when it's warm, it starts perfectly. I've already tried following Markus's advice, but it's not working. The injection timing is being adjusted to match the "target values," but the starting behavior has become even worse.

What specific steps did you take to adjust the injection timing to achieve the target value? How and in what operating mode of the engine control unit (ECU) did you measure the actual value?

Marko wrote:

What else can be done to address the problem?

Sure, I will answer the questions above first.

Marko wrote:

Regarding the adaptation channels (sorry, there was a mistake earlier): I would like to know to what extent someone has modified the settings (using VAG-COM) in order to achieve a more optimal performance. Because it allows adjustment of 5 parameters: fuel injection quantity, idle speed, air mass, injection timing, and starting quantity. Since mine has become sluggish at higher speeds, compared to before (above 180 km/h), and, as mentioned, has cold start problems.

Since when has it become more stable in the higher speed range?

Marko wrote:

Can you really change the basic settings without any problems?

The default setting mode is an operating state of the control unit in which actuators are brought to a defined state, for example, the fuel injector.
The purpose is to check and correct the mechanical basic positions of system components.
What do you want to change, and how?

Hi!

Poor cold start characteristics often suggest an inaccurate fuel injection start.
And because the value, as read by VAG-COM when the engine was cold, was outside the tolerance range of 45-60 (measuring block 000).


What did I exclude?
- Preheating system and glow plugs are functioning correctly.
- No air bubbles and no kinks in the fuel line.
- The electromagnetic retainer receives voltage and "clicks".
- The fuel injectors are new.
- The fuel injection pump is in good condition.

Regarding the framework conditions:
- Turn off all electrical appliances (air conditioning, lights, etc.).


Values 7 & 9 in the default settings mode:
Value 7: 114
Value 9: 187

What did I do?
- Started VAG-COM, accessed measuring block 000, started the engine, read the actual value, compared it to the target value, and then turned off the engine.
- Marked the position, loosened the camshaft gear, rotated the impeller clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the value, tightened the wheel, restarted, and measured.

Operating mode: not in default mode.
Normally, this is done by reading the measurement data blocks 000.

Since the ESP was reinstalled and I had the opportunity (time) to test it on the highway, he has become a fan.


Thank you for the previous answer, that's all I needed to know.
Then the question of performance optimization has been resolved.

cu: Marko

Marko wrote:

Hi! Poor cold start characteristics often suggest an inaccurate fuel injection start. And because the value, according to VAG-COM, was outside the tolerance range of 45-60 when the engine was cold. (Measurement block 000)

Yes and no. The injection timing in the basic setting mode is essentially what's relevant for a good engine start.

Quote:

What did I exclude? - Preheating system and glow plugs are functioning correctly. - No air bubbles and no kinks in the fuel line. - The electromagnetic retainer receives voltage and "clicks". - The fuel injectors are new. - The fuel injection pump is in good condition.

Okay.

Quote:

Regarding the framework conditions: - Turn off all electrical appliances (air conditioning, lights, etc.). Values 7 & 9 in the default settings mode: Value 7: 114 Value 9: 187

http://www.dieselschrauber.de/Solldaten_Main.html
Framework conditions (value 7) not met, remaining values are irrelevant.
Value 9 not met, no adjustment is meaningful.

Quote:

What have I done: - Started VAG-COM, accessed measuring block 000, started the engine, read the actual value, compared it to the target value, and then turned off the engine. -

Marked the position, loosened the camshaft gear, rotated the impeller clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the value, tightened the wheel, restarted, and measured.

Quote:

Where and what did you mark? Did you rub your foot on the ground? Or did you pee on a tree? I'm about to lose it... So, you loosened the camshaft sprocket, locked the camshaft, and then turned the injection pump sprocket. This moved the timing belt a few millimeters in the direction of rotation and twisted the crankshaft. Afterwards, you tightened the camshaft sprocket again. Please clarify whether your previous description accurately reflects the facts. Either you made a typo, or you're incredibly stupid.

Operating mode: not in the default setting mode.
Normally, this is done by reading the measurement data blocks 000

Quote:

. Man... what are you trying to say?

He has become a regular user since the ESP was reinstalled, and I had the opportunity (time) to test it on the highway.
Common sense suggests that it must have something to do with the installation or disassembly of the ESP, right?

Along with the background information about the starting problems when the engine is warm, this tells me that you still don't understand what the position of the RWG cover has to do with it.

I wrote to you about when I think the SETTING FOR SUCCESSFUL will be achieved.

I even specifically asked what you did to fix the rough idling. Your response was completely useless; you just copied and pasted the shortened version of the advice I had given you earlier.

So... If your setting can now be described as successful}, what value did you measure to assess that?

Hi!

For the love of God, no.
(Sorry, it's the little details again.)

Sure, please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.

- I have the "drive wheel for the ESP" that is located on the camshaft.
solved, nothing else.
This is the easiest and fastest way to hire.
- Previously, I had brought the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC).
- I marked the ESP wheel for escape purposes.
Marking of the ESP bracket.
- I measured the actual values at idle.

I cannot read measurement block 19.

Under block 1, when the ignition is turned on, the voltage displayed is 0.68 V, and when the engine is started in neutral, it is 1.46 V (expected range: 1.25 - 1.75 V in neutral). These are the readings for all 5 cylinders.

I'm still open to the possibility that it might be related to the ESP.

Marko wrote:

Hi! For the love of God, no. (Sorry, it's the little details again.) Sure, please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. - I have the "drive wheel for the ESP" that is located on the camshaft. solved, nothing else. This is the easiest and fastest way to hire. - Previously, I had brought the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC). - I marked the ESP wheel for escape purposes. Marking of the ESP bracket. - I measured the actual values

while the engine was idling.
Okay, that explains a lot.

Marko wrote:

I'm still open to the possibility that it might have something to do with the ESP.

Okay, then answer my question.

Rainer, a question:

To what extent does the engine's performance change when you revert to the default settings?
Is it normal for the preheating indicator to blink and for the engine to rev slightly higher?
If that's not the case, I will address this issue and then proceed.

Marko wrote:

To what extent does the engine's performance change when you revert to the default settings? Is it normal for the preheating indicator to blink and for the engine to rev slightly higher?

I have no idea if that's normal for your engine.

Marko wrote:

If it is not as it should be, I will fix this problem and then proceed.

Nonsense. I asked about field 2 in measurement block 1, and that was with the engine running at idle and without any additional loads like the air conditioning! Field 3 depends on the fuel temperature, and you can't tell me that value at the time of the measurement -> the value is useless.
While value 2 is within the tolerance range, it could still be a reason for your engine's sluggish performance.

Rainer K. wrote:

If you can read an idle injection amount of 4-5mg/stroke with a warm engine, the air conditioning (or similar loads) turned off, and an unadjusted injection amount, I would consider the adjustment to be successful.

Why don't you just do what you're told?

I don't feel like it anymore.

Hi Rainer!

The value is between 4.4 - 4.7 mg/hub when the engine is at operating temperature, which is within the acceptable range.
Just one more thing: Do you experience the same issue when you go into the default settings?


Danke trotzdem für die Schrittweise etw. Solution.


cu: Marko

Marko wrote:

The value is between 4.4 - 4.7 mg/hub when the engine is at operating temperature, which is fine.

Okay, regarding the last 2-3 horsepower and a bit more responsiveness, you can reduce the dosage to below 3mg per injection, but this increases the risk of jolting.
I would leave it as is.

Marko wrote:

Only: Is it the same for you when you go into the default settings?

No, but I haven't connected a 5-cylinder engine to a VAG-COM diagnostic tool yet.

Marko wrote:

Danke trotzdem für die Schrittweise etw. Solution.

Here's a translation:

"Regarding the adjustment of the fuel injection start, there's also a technical article on the subject written by Ulf and me. You might make progress by first setting up a good cold start without any initial adjustment values, and then checking whether the full adjustment range in measurement block 4, fields 2 & 3, can be utilized."