My vibration damper assessment (with picture)

hello

The Neverending Story - The Timing Belt Story - Short question, please provide a short answer:

Immediate action is needed, or should this be kept in mind for later and we should proceed as is? I definitely had to reassemble it like this for now...

"Should I buy the 'better' version right away when I get a new one? Can I exchange it one-to-one? Will my tools still fit?"

Sure, here's the translation:

"Thank you."

Sure, here's the translation:

"Hello."

Hi roorback.
'The SD card is definitely broken; could you take a picture of the key switch stub? It looks damaged.'
possibly also leaving it behind.

Best regards, Kurt.

Thanks for the information. The question was also a bit rude, of course, it's probably broken. However, the background is the current value of the car – a shock absorber costs half the value. I'm usually frugal, but saving in the wrong places doesn't help either. Considering the car could potentially last another 10 years, and it doesn't necessarily have to break down with 500,000 km if certain things are taken care of, the overall benefit of the car could be much higher.
Most importantly, the oil pump is now leak-proof, so there's no more risk to the rubber components.

By the way, it seems that Volvo often retrofitted the freewheel mechanism on the alternator (LIMA) to reduce the load on the damper, supposedly to make it last longer. Is that true?

Anyway - I'm wondering how you can tell if a "stub" is defective? The SD is now re-mounted and basically runs really well and smoothly. I have another motor, and there are extreme vibrations - I'm surprised that the V-belt even stays on - but it does run...

I will order an SD card and replace it. I don't want to mess with the crankshaft (since I don't have the tools to machine it, and I probably won't be able to get them). However, I would appreciate an explanation of how to visually inspect it. Thank you.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Hello."

Hi.
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The wave stub must be perfectly flat, just like the vibration damper.
The 0.3mm diamond disc (shown at the bottom of the image) must be worn down 100%, then a new screw should be tightened to 200 Nm plus an additional 270 degrees.
You really need sturdy tools for that; a 1/2' ratchet won't do the job.

My parts dealer rents out the milling cutter to his customers for 50 euros.
Best regards, Kurt.http://katyonline.matthies.de/webdata/ImageData/mattdb/artbild/140/80001157.JPG{MARKER}

"Thank you."

Here's the translation:

"In all the documents I have, it states the following:"

The 4 screws are located on the timing belt pulley side.
Level 1: 20 Nm.
Level 2: 90-degree rotation angle.

Center bolt:
Level 1: 160 Nm.
Level 2: 180° rotation angle (can occur in steps).



and the diamond disc that I now bought for retrofitting is thinner (34x19x0.1).
Are there different types?

I'm definitely assuming that the crankshaft journal is okay. I mean, as long as it doesn't have any extreme visual defects, like the one I saw on a friend's engine or on my replacement engine – which I'll definitely need to repair – then it's fine for the car.
While I'm also very detail-oriented, striving for perfection isn't really appropriate for a 16-year-old car with 500,000 kilometers on it. Besides, as mentioned, it still works for my acquaintance, even with a completely worn-out shock absorber.

and many people don't take any precautions and just drive, hoping nothing happens...

I think I'm doing pretty well with the new shock absorber, it should work out. If I hadn't done the ZR (presumably a modification or upgrade), I wouldn't have seen this improvement.

Thank you for the tips!

Sure, here's the translation:

"Hello."

Okay, so the vibration damper has been replaced - thanks again for the tips. I chose Hutchinson - my parts supplier told me it's the OEM part. And it's relatively inexpensive, considering that VW here in Carinthia wants 230€, while VW in Germany charges around 180€ - the Hutchinson costs 125€.

It's also very interesting that Volvo has different torque specifications than VW. However, I was able to achieve 160 Nm plus a half-turn using a counter-torque. This works quite well with two 3/4" T-pieces and about 2 meters of extension.

I have one more question - I overtightened my timing belt slightly last week. The instructions say to fix the tensioner 2mm above the marking, but from the bottom, those 2mm looked like 4mm from the top. Also, the belt was making a noise when it got warm. Because I'm quite precise and like to keep everything clean, I took the opportunity yesterday to correct it. I released the tension on the tensioner and re-tensioned the belt, just slightly above the marking. Now the belt is properly tensioned and isn't making any noise - everything is good.

Okay, this minimal adjustment naturally affects the cam and the pump; the setting is now from -1° (which is my setting, and what works best for the concrete mixer) to -1.77° - which is a bit too much, I'll adjust it back to 1° - that's not a problem.

"So, what does the valve control say about this? I know it works, but if you don't have a straight edge, people often just mark things roughly. That would likely mean the valve control is even more misadjusted. Is there enough clearance that the car still runs well?"
or should one be extremely precise and even when making the slightest adjustment to the wrench, double-check with a ruler? I've seen many people use feeler gauges along with the ruler to ensure the ruler is perfectly aligned.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Thank you."
Sure, here's the translation:

"Hello."

"It's funny how things go: everything's running smoothly, you're heading home, and then *bam*... you end up working on it again until midnight (thankfully, it's just a flat belt and a belt tensioner) – just to remove the middle metal cover to straighten it out because the new vibration damper is grinding against it."

roorback wrote:

Center bolt: Level 1: 160 Nm. Level 2: 180° rotation angle (can occur in steps).

Hello.

I have one more question about this: Can I use an impact wrench for step 2, which requires a 180-degree rotation? Should I mark the position at 9 o'clock and then keep tightening until I reach 3 o'clock? Normally, you wouldn't do that, but I have to be honest, I was present twice when the timing belt was changed – and the workshops often use an impact wrench to do it, at least that's what they did in my case.
The issue I'm facing is that the engine is hanging loosely from the chain, which makes it difficult to work on it while providing support and using extensions.
Of course, I could do that later, when the motor is secured in the subframe and the car is on the lift.

Best regards,

If you have a 1-inch impact wrench and the appropriate air supply (like in a truck repair shop), then why not. The 1/2-inch impact wrenches don't generate enough torque. If you maintain the same rotational angle after the initial tightening torque, it doesn't really matter how you achieve that.

Best regards.
Christian

"Thank you."

So, it's happening after all? I have a 3/4" model with a capacity of 110kg, or 100kg. I think it can handle quite a bit. The screw definitely came loose very easily.
Okay, he'll run out of air pretty quickly with my toy air compressor – then he'll just have to wait... Okay, then I can definitely try it that way.

THX.

The expansion bolt should be tightened as evenly as possible, with local support, i.e., at the vibration damper.
Hitting the threads with an impact wrench, along with the crankshaft and its bearings, the clutch, and the transmission, is certainly not the most intelligent approach.
hg
Herbert.

Hi!

Yes, I agree.
but without a counterweight, for example, borrowed from VW.
"It's not going to work; I won't be able to tighten that screw."

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Thanks, Steffen. I recognize that photo, and I have my own counterarguments.

I was just thinking that maybe I could do it if the engine is still in the garage. I do everything I can in advance, so I don't forget anything at the end.

Okay, I'll handle it with the necessary support and a 2-meter extension.
Thank you.
Best regards, Uwe.

Thank you, Steffen, for the inspiration.

That's exactly what happened to me. While not as elegant, I had to use/waste a 1/2" coupling on the opposite end (the 3/4" wouldn't fit past the frame with the pipe - even though it obviously bent the pipe). I was easily able to achieve the required torque and 180° rotation with it.

THX again.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Hello."

Even a good, strong winter cocktail like vodka with tea and lemon can be warming .

T3Surfer wrote:

Even a good, hardened winter drinker Vodka with tea and lemon is already warming

No, at least it doesn't stay warm for long.
Working in the cold and drinking alcohol only works as long as there's a constant supply.
Either you get drunk at some point and can't find your tools anymore, or you're freezing like crazy.