Terminal 15, engine compartment / central electronics box

I've now installed a weasel-repellent electric shock system in the engine compartment, after dealing with a multitude of smaller damages (and a lot of debris and dirt) over several years. Well, I'm almost finished. Now I know where the weasel runs, hides, and sleeps.
Be very precise with time. This allowed me to install the contact plates accurately.

The difficulty is locating terminal 15 in the engine compartment.
Inside the main electrical panel, there is only one pin that provides a 15-ampere current – and that is the pin connected to the relay located inside the main electrical panel.
I got a central electrical panel from a scrapyard and took it apart because I wasn't entirely sure about the wiring diagram.
But it's probably really like this - only one pin on the relay is labeled "15", and that "15" connects to the wire that comes from the connector at the bottom.

But - I'm getting power to it, regardless of whether the ignition is on or off.

Why? Am I making a mistake in my thinking?
I've also waited for 15 minutes before - unfortunately, the situation is the same - it's still getting power.

"Regarding image 4: I've always connected things through the relay to reach the pin on my vehicles, for as long as 30 years - however, until now, none of my vehicles have had a CAN-bus system ."
The badger system is designed to be compatible with vehicles that use a CAN-Bus.


VW Golf V Variant, year of manufacture 11/2007, model 2008.
2.0 TDI Diesel 140HP DPF (BMM) - DSG (KCU)
Marten repeller system version 2.0 SENSOR 717 (CAN-Bus tested).

Constant power on terminal 15 I only know about on terminal 30. 15 is the ignition power . If you don't trust the wiring diagram, why don't you check it instead of taking parts from scrap just to test them ? There are multimeters, LED test lamps, etc. for that .
Isn't the red-painted hood switch, which serves as the kill switch for the anti-marten device, enough for you?

T3Surfer wrote:

Constant power on terminal 15 I only know about that on terminal 30. 15 is the ignition power If you don't trust the wiring diagram, why don't you check it instead of taking a part from scrap just to test it There are multimeters, LED test lamps, etc. for that . Doesn't the hood switch, which is painted a nice red color, suffice as a stop for the anti-marten device?

I am looking for and need a "ignition plus" connection!
And here, at the relay, terminal 15 should be the ignition positive terminal.
Instead, it's always drawing power – even hours later.
the ignition key has been removed.

"I trust the circuit diagram, but first of all, the mysterious box..."
primarily interested in the internal components (especially the bottom/connector) and secondly...
I thought maybe I could find another 15 undocumented ones somewhere; apparently, that's a possibility.
Okay, go ahead.

Yes, actually, just opening the hood (that nicely red-painted part) is usually enough. But the manufacturer still sees the number 15.
that the component is without power during the journey. If that's the plan, then.
Perhaps there are reasons for it that aren't immediately obvious to me - I have no idea - I just wanted to connect it according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Unfortunately, I have to admit that I find your text to be lacking in detail, and I can't tell which relay (according to the SLP functional designation) or which pin of the relay you are referring to. Furthermore, it would be interesting to know who or what, according to the SLP (System Logic Program), is supposed to trigger the relay.

You might have simply connected the wrong pin of the relay, or something similar. But for that, we need more details in order to be able to help you effectively.

Greetings.
Guste.

The relay has the part number 4H0951253 and, as mentioned, it's the only one located there.
Relays in the central electrical box, engine compartment.
In the spare parts catalog, the relay does not have a functional description; it only lists the relay number and the text "Relay".

Pin 15, which is inserted into the central electrical box from below, has the number "15" printed on the central electrical box housing (see image).
"And I found it using the continuity tester at the connector at the top where you plug in the relay (picture)."

And so far, I've observed that there's always voltage present on pin 15.
I also once locked the car and left it for 2 hours with the hood open.
"It was left untouched and then measured (without unlocking or opening the door beforehand), and there was still electricity flowing through it."

Should I take measurements with the hood closed (running the measurement cable outside)?

Hi HuBärtus!

First of all, a picture of the installation instructions, as well as the manufacturer, type, model number, etc., of the vole repellent device you are using would be interesting. Then we can also think through things here from beginning to end, and we don't have to deal with disjointed thoughts that are confusing to outsiders.

Unfortunately, you did not answer Guste's question or misunderstood it.
He (or we) didn't want to buy your relay using the "order number," but rather wanted to know WHERE it is located in the wiring diagram (schematic).
Relays are typically... R. is designated as "Jxxx". (...and no, I'm not referring to the marking on the relay, but the designation in the circuit diagram! )

There is a significant difference between terminal 15 and pin 15!
Terminal 15: Standard connection point for +12V when the ignition is ON. Therefore, it doesn't matter whether the car is on or off, because this connection only carries voltage when the ignition is on or the engine is running.
Pin 15: Unlabeled connection/cable/connector/...
Therefore, where "15" is written, it does not necessarily mean that there is a ":wink:terminal:wink: 15" inside.

Incidentally, it's already important whether the hood switch indicates "open" or not, because the engine control unit (ECU) won't go into sleep mode in that case - but this also has nothing to do with this terminal 15 (see above).

Just measure the voltage at a few fuses (while they are plugged in, of course!) with the ignition ON/OFF; you'll definitely find terminal 15 at least 20 times.

Best regards from Munich!

Sure, here's the translation:

"PS: What does "...approved for vehicles with CAN bus..." actually mean?" Does the "FrettchenScheuche" (Ferret Scarecrow) require a CAN connection, or what can be inferred from this statement?

Hello DieselBear, I wish I hadn't started the thread, if...
It would be great if an admin could close/delete this thread. Please delete it!
I'm sorry that I'm not a professional and still posted here.
I mean that sincerely - I'm sorry - and there's no irony in my tone!
Please stop picking on me, I get it.

I followed the installation instructions from the manufacturer of the voleEnergizer.
glanced at it and discarded it - too simple and too obvious, and there was nothing else to it.
to make a mistake. Mass through the hood switch activates the relay of the...
"WühlmausEnergizer" detects whether the hood is open and then receives...
The "moleEnergizer" is no longer receiving power. The ignition plus provides power to the...
Mole Energizer, also the signal indicating that the car is now (presumably) moving.
and no more electricity is needed to power the system.
A simple, standard relay from WühlmausEnergizers: No ground connection means no power; power present means no power.
So, I thought I could just throw away the circuit diagram/wiring diagram...

I don't have a wiring diagram for my car.
"So far, in case of a problem, I've been able to quickly access a computer at the dealer's."
Sure, can I purchase Erwin (siehe Fehlerdatenbank) OnlineService for 1 hour?
Then I could explain what the relay does in the central electrical panel.
But why nobody here seems to know about it – I wouldn't have expected that.
It wasn't important to me, as I only use the PIN.

Your comment that the pins simply have numbers and are placed randomly.
which include "30" and "15", as well as other "electrolytic numbers".
It was good that nothing had to do with those electrical terms.
I wouldn't have thought so - although I can't see that the...
The numbers on the connector would be complete, meaning not from 1-99.
Okay, well, it could be just a numbering system.

So far, I always thought that the control units went into a "sleep" mode when...
Consumers are only willing to pay for a product or service for as long as they perceive the value to be worth the price. For example... Makeup mirror, interior lighting, etc. - all of that turns off after 1 minute or so.
CAN bus vehicles then shut everything down and go to sleep, even if you only adjust one setting.
accidentally read something that was intended for other consumers.
(Please don't criticize my non-technical terminology "CAN Bus vehicles" - I think you know what I mean - thank you).

The manufacturer of the "WühlmausEnergizer" writes "CAN-Bus capable" for this reason.
the packaging, because he means that the CAN bus affects the power consumption.
"not detected" and therefore controls everything as if it were not connected.
The event would be called "Mole Energizers."

As I said, I apologize for the thread - it can be closed.
I'm sorry.

My dear HuBärtus, just don't always make things so complicated!
...and take your skirt off again .

Okay, let's start again: You have a badger battery charger that has a constant positive connection (terminal 30), ignition positive connection (terminal 15), ground connection (terminal 31), and also includes a hood contact, correct?

Long-lasting power: battery, generator, and definitely also in the ZE (electric vehicle) control unit.
Ignition positive: Wiper motor, ...and definitely also in the control unit (ZE) box.
You can determine both types of terminals by measuring the voltage there (see above!).
Mix everything together in a more or less beautiful/elegant way - done.

I inquired about CAN because the vehicle (at least since the WIV model) already has a factory-installed hood contact, AND if the "FrettchenSchleuder" (presumably a device) can read this contact, as well as ignition ON/OFF (and/or door(s) OPEN/CLOSED, parking brake engaged, etc.), via CAN, then you would only need a positive and ground connection for it.

Best regards from Munich!

PS: I never, ever, ever throw away technical documentation or manuals, no matter how flimsy they are, because eventually you might need something from them, like for example... Address, type., blabla.

Please don't be offended. Your first post gave the impression that you had all the documents at hand and hadn't revealed all the information.

Okay, you've clearly stated that you don't know the function of the relay. That's fine, it's a clear statement. I've taken a look. It refers to relay J317, "voltage supply to terminal 30".

The relay has the following pins: 30, 85, 86, and 87. Pin 15 is not available.
Pin 30 and 85 are connected to the battery.
Pin 87 is the output of the relay, to which all the "motor-driven components" are connected, which only receive voltage when the ignition is on (and during the engine's after-run). You can use this relay here.
Pin 86 is the relay's input. This is configured to provide the necessary current to energize the relay, causing it to engage. (You could also use the inverse configuration for your relay.)

Background of the relay: In a broad sense, terminal "30" of the motor is essentially the same as terminal "15". The motor can only power itself with voltage now, even though terminal 15 has already been disconnected (e.g., for the radiator fan after-run).

Note: The relay output (pin 87) connects to fuses 13, 14, 15, 21, 22, 23, and 24. These are the fuses located directly next to the relay. You would also need to measure that there is no voltage on either side of the fuse when the ignition is off.

Are we friends again now?

Greetings.
Guste.