Leakage current of 2.8 amps

Hi.
Polo 6n /2
I installed a fully charged battery in the evening, and it was completely drained by the morning.
Debugging:
All fuses removed.
All relays engaged.
Unnecessary work...
The cable running from the battery/fuse box to the starter/alternator leads to the source of the problem.
Disconnected and only drawing milliamps, so it's within the expected range.
It's not the Lima, as cables have been unscrewed or disconnected.
On Monday, I'm going to disconnect the cable from the starter motor; then I'll know more.
So, it's definitely the starter motor.
If the cable were to momentarily connect to ground, the location would become noticeably bright.
My question is, what exactly could be broken on the starter motor?
That thick cable that's permanently attached is always under power, but how are 2.8 amps being continuously dissipated there?
Best regards.

If the starter motor is draining the battery, then the solenoid is likely faulty.

There are only two possibilities left:
- Obtain a new AT starter motor, or a used one.
- Replace magnetic switch.

Best regards,

Hello everyone!

The starter solenoid is powered via terminal 50 by the ZAS (ZündAnlageSteuerung - ignition control unit) and not by the thick "30" cable.

The starter motor works perfectly otherwise, and I highly doubt it's running constantly.
Then I'm more inclined to believe it's a leaky diode in the Lima alternator, but is that really completely ruled out?

Best regards from Munich!

PS: I deleted a duplicate post.

Yes.
When the Lima is completely disconnected, the suction power of 2.8 amps remains.
If I disconnect the cable from the fuse strip located above the battery, the current loss decreases.
If the cable were making contact with the ground, you would see it glowing brightly and sparking.
On Monday, I'm going to disconnect the thick cable from the starter motor.
If the power loss is due to the starter, then it needs to be replaced.
I'm just wondering what kind of fault could be causing the starter to only draw 2.8 amps.
I'll know more tomorrow afternoon...
Sure, here's the translation:

'MFG' is an abbreviation for 'Mit freundlichen Grüßen,' which translates to 'Sincerely' or 'Best regards' in English.

DieselBär30x wrote:

Hello everyone! The starter solenoid is powered via terminal 50 by the ZAS (ZündAnlageSteuerung - ignition control unit) and not by the thick "30" cable.

The magnetic switch has terminals 30 and 50, with terminal 30 connected to the battery (in my opinion, but without a fuse!), and terminal 50 also connected.

For the Polo 6n/2, there's a fuse located before it, and you're right.
The thick cable goes to the magnetic switch, but in my opinion, it's just switched through and then goes directly to the starter motor.
I'll know more on Monday.
Sure, here's the translation:

'MFG' is an abbreviation for 'Mit freundlichen Grüßen,' which translates to 'Sincerely' or 'Best regards' in English.

Hello everyone!

@MfG: I have also read your explanations regarding the problem - even twice, or now for the third time.
Despite this, my inquiry regarding the proper (mechanical) function of the starter motor remained unanswered.

Which cable did you disconnect from the battery, and from WHERE exactly? Does it connect securely to the starter?
Maybe a picture would be helpful here, because, as Gremlin already said: A strip fuse for the main line to the starter motor?! ...I don't really think so either.

Speaking of Gremlins:

DieselBär30x wrote:

... The magnetic switch of the starter motor is powered via terminal 50 from the ZAS (Zündanlasssystem) and not from the thick "30" cable. ... I apologize for my poor German, and I have already corrected my statement in the quote above . No, basic understanding of how a starter motor works: The magnetic switch is powered exclusively by the ignition switch, or alternatively by the onboard power control unit or similar device. The (holding) current here is, according to my estimate, approximately 15-20A. This magnetic switch is first mechanically coupled to the starter pinion, which it engages ("slots") into the flywheel ring gear, AND THEN (!!!) it closes the contacts between "30" and the "starter motor." Translation: The starter motor is only activated when the pinion gear is engaged with the ring gear. Conclusion: Without voltage applied to terminal 50, the starter motor will not operate (unless the contacts are welded together or something similar). Therefore, I can't really explain right now how a starter motor could draw exactly 2.8A in a resting state without doing anything – at least not continuously. Here's another tip: This "leakage current" generates approximately 40W of (loss) power, which should be relatively easy to detect even with a rough estimate. Alternatively, there are also infrared thermometers, which are now almost a standard item in the inventory of anyone with an interest in technology. But I'm really curious to see what it will be. Best regards from Munich!

Therefore, I can't really explain right now how a starter motor could draw exactly 2.8A in a resting state without doing anything - at least not continuously.

That's exactly what I'm wondering too.
It's definitely the cable that runs directly from the fuse to the starter motor and then to the alternator.
A friend who works at ADAC verified this exact point.
It's bound to happen occasionally.
If we have time tomorrow, I'll disconnect the cable from the starter motor.
Once the faulty starter is replaced, a new one will be installed.
The old man will stay here for analysis, and I will report back later.
That will take another week.
Best regards.

Starters are typically available as replacement parts with a core charge.
That means that the spare parts supplier will, in most cases, provide the replacement part. R. wants to have it.

I checked everything thoroughly today.
It's the cable on the battery with the fuse strip.
And: It's not the starter motor, but the alternator.
Diode through or something.
Tomorrow morning, a new fuel pump will be ordered/purchased, and then it will be installed painlessly.
'Just ask me how I could have been so arrogant...'

Best regards.

I still don't understand the concept of strip fencing.
Two cables run from the positive terminal of the battery: a 4mm² cable to the central electrical system, and a 25mm² "heavy-duty" cable from the positive terminal to the starter motor. A 10mm² cable runs from the 25mm² connection at the starter motor to the generator. The 25mm² cable is therefore used once for the starting current, and once for the supply and charging current of the alternator.
Do you mean that the 25mm² cable is protected by a fuse? Take a picture.
hg
Herbert.

Hi,

So, the alternator, specifically in the area of the regulator, will get quite warm when operating at its maximum power output? You could almost smell it after a few hours...

Herbert wrote:

I still don't understand the thing about the strip security. Two cables run from the positive terminal of the battery: a 4mm² cable to the central electrical system, and a 25mm² "heavy-duty" cable from the positive terminal to the starter motor. A 10mm² cable runs from the 25mm² connection at the starter motor to the generator. The 25mm² cable is therefore used once for the starting current, and once for the supply and charging current of the alternator. Do you mean that the 25mm² cable is protected by a fuse? Take a picture. hg Herbert

Regarding the Polo 6N2, is the wiring already the same as in the Golf 4 and other models?
- Separate wire to the starter motor (crimped terminal).
- Separate wiring to the starter motor, with a fuse protecting up to 200A?

So, no more like Golf 2/3 with a charging cable at the starter...

Hello everyone!

After the alternator, which was supposedly disconnected, was found to still be connected to the battery, and after it refused to cooperate for picture-taking...

I suggest we wait for further feedback from the person who asked the question.
Perhaps he will eventually provide self-explanatory photos or an explanation of why an electrically isolated alternator could still cause a "leakage current."

It's not meant to be malicious, even though it might sound that way now!
Possibly, this might be helpful to some people when troubleshooting similar problems in the future .

Best regards from Munich!

I'll bring the camera with me to the garage next time.

A few days ago, I had a light bulb connected between the negative terminal of the battery and the disconnected ground cable, and the light bulb was happily lit.
I have no idea how my mistake, or rather, my 'perfect' lime, could have happened.
On Monday, I took measurements with the ammeter and conclusively identified the alternator as the culprit.
The new one has arrived, it's just a matter of when I can install it.
Photos and feedback will be provided soon.
Best regards.

Hello, best regards!

The LiMa (likely referring to a piece of equipment) could probably have been repaired with some soldering skills, but oh well.

As Gremlin mentioned, that particular type of fuse wouldn't be entirely uninteresting.
Please take a picture!

Nevertheless, thank you very much for your update .

Best regards from Munich!