Injection Pump VW Golf 1 GTD

Hello community.

My name is Manuel, and I'm new to this forum. I wanted to introduce myself.

I am a trained industrial mechanic and have accumulated nearly 10 years of hands-on experience through various projects.

I have now started studying automotive engineering.

Ich habe vor ca einem Jahr angefangen für die Dieseltechnik zu interessieren und mir letztes Jahr im Dezember ein Golf 1 Diesel zugelegt, der vom Vorbesitzer einen CY Motor bekommen hat, also einen 1.6 l mit Turbo. Der Gute stand 11 Jahre lang trocken in einer Scheune, ist auch prima angesprungen und gelaufen aber weil er nicht angemeldet war und ich jetzt das H möchte, wollte ich die ganze Technik überholen, unter Anderem auch den Zahnriemen und die Einspritzpumpe. Ich habe ein paar Beiträge zur Demontage, Montage, Abdichtung und Förderbeginneinstellung usw. durchgelesen und verinnerlicht. Die Pumpe ist neu abgedichtet, eingebaut, Förderbeginn auf 0,95 eingestellt. Das Problem was ich habe ist folgendes: Ich war so dumm und habe mir die Position des Gashebels zur Gaswelle nicht bzw Falsch markiert und nun anhand eines Bildes, welches ich vor der Demontage gemacht habe, so ungefähr eingestellt. Ich kann Ihn zwar starten aber entweder stirbt der Motor sofort ab oder er dreht gleich extrem hoch. Ich hab auch die Standgasschraube schon komplett zurück genommen und trotzdem dreht er dann sehr hoch. Mcertain questions are:

- Is there a recommended setting for the gas wave relative to the throttle lever? I've already tried two other positions, but it didn't work in any of them.

- kann es an einer anderen Sache liegen, dass er so hoch dreht? (z.b. Set screw.

I also adjusted the amount setting screw in quarter-turn increments, turning it one full turn in each direction, but without any real success.

I hope you can help me a little, even though I know that remote diagnoses are always difficult. If you need any further information, please let me know and I will gladly provide it.

Today, I'm going to build an ESP without using LDA and see if it works initially. At least that way, it can get the "H" functionality working.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Hi there,
Be careful not to make adjustments in too many places.
If you are sure that the fuel metering screw is in a reasonably correct position (?), then leave it there. Do the same with the idle stop. Only move the throttle lever one tooth at a time, as it probably only needs to be adjusted by about 3 teeth.
Please share your photos of the ESP; it might help us understand better.
hg
Herbert.

Hello.

Okay, the idle setting is correct, and so is the fuel quantity. I haven't touched the adjustment screw. I've managed to get it running for now. Initially, when disassembling, I had the pump connected at a 180-degree angle. When I realized that was wrong, I rotated the camshaft and crankshaft (the timing belt was already removed), but I forgot to rotate the ESP... Totally stupid. But that's how it is when your wife is breathing down your neck and wants to get going as quickly as possible .

Okay, so I adjusted the idle speed screw tooth by tooth as you suggested, and eventually it started working. It runs smoothly now, with a good idle speed and no misfires. Unfortunately, it only idles; I can't get it to rev up at all, even when trying to adjust it with the throttle lever or the idle speed screw.

I suspect the throttle linkage may have come unhooked. I would rule out everything else because all the internal components are brand new. Or is there another possible reason why it's not responding to the accelerator?

Best regards,

Since adjusting the throttle linkage on the shaft has had little effect on the LL (likely referring to a low-speed or idle setting), the issue probably lies with its adjustment or the regulator settings. I would further adjust the throttle linkage incrementally along the shaft, moving it towards the idle stop.
If there is currently no gas uptake, it will likely occur with the next slight shift of the tooth.
hg
Herbert.

PS: Besides the classic and valuable Golf 1, do you also have a regular car for everyday use?

Is the feather hanging under the lid?

If not, the ESP would not react to the movement of the lever .
hg
Herbert.

Hi, so I'm pretty sure it reacted to the twisting of the drive shaft, haha. It was twisted by 180 degrees. I've put everything back together for now and tried it out. Today, I'll check again to see if the linkage was disconnected. If it wasn't, I'll try adjusting it tooth by tooth.

By the way, my daily driver is an E30 316i. The Golf is for my wife to use for everyday driving. Since it's not an original GTD, I don't see it as a big deal to drive it daily. I was looking for a car that is robust, has simple technology, and will last forever. I hope I made the right choice. I am aware that the Mk1 bodywork requires maintenance, but it's nice and lightweight, without any unnecessary features, and visually appealing. I just hope the engine is reliable. Feel free to write something about it if you want. I plan to get it through the TÜV (German technical inspection) and then see what needs to be done to make the engine more thermally stable. It's always said that this is the only weak point of these swirl chamber diesels.

Greetings and happy Sunday.

The 1.6 TDI engines in the Golf don't have thermal issues if the cooling system is in good condition and you avoid driving at full throttle. It's important to allow the engine to warm up properly, and even more important to let it cool down completely when cold.

I'm also considering adding an oil cooler from a Golf I GTI, but I'm not sure if it will fit next to the existing TD radiator.

The turbocharged diesel already comes with a water-oil cooler from the factory. If you drive at a maximum speed of 140 km/h, there are few thermal problems. However, when driving at full throttle or faster than 140 km/h, or when towing heavy loads, it is recommended to replace the water-oil cooler with an 11-row or 16-row oil cooler with a thermostat. Never immediately turn off the engine after a long period of spirited driving; instead, let it idle for at least 3 minutes with the heater on full blast before turning it off – especially the turbocharger and head gasket will benefit from this.
Good quality 10W-40 oil, and changing it every 10,000 km is also a good practice.

My former GII turbo-diesel engine, with its original water-oil cooler, reached 512,000 km before being sold to Africa, despite suffering damage due to a "stupid zone" in Frankfurt.

The oil change interval is every 7500 km, including the filter replacement. The oil specification is VW 50500. I drove the CY engine in my Passat for almost 400,000 km.
hg
Herbert.

The problem with oil/water coolers under prolonged full throttle/load conditions is that the oil temperature also increases the water temperature, which then leads to thermal problems.

Rüdi wrote:

The problem with oil/water coolers under prolonged full throttle/load is that the oil temperature also causes the water temperature to rise...

I have never observed this behavior during long-distance trips with nearly full load (for months, every weekend driving 800 km each way).
I'd start by getting the engine running properly first. It doesn't need any of that usual tuning nonsense, especially not now that it's old.

Herbert.

With my Passat equipped with a direct-injection engine, I could observe this phenomenon clearly on the multi-function display. Ultimately, turning on the heater was the only thing that helped.

Greetings to you all,

First of all, thank you to all of you for responding so quickly and thoroughly. The car has been running again for just a few hours now. As Herbert mentioned, the accelerator cable wasn't disconnected. Now, I want to explain the problem to you and also provide the solution.

The problem was that the gas wave and the adjustment of the quantity screw were misaligned in such a way that when the throttle lever was mounted on the pump, the engine would run while stationary, but the throttle linkage would be at full throttle.

Here's how I solved the problem: I disassembled the throttle lever from the throttle shaft, taking it apart into its two components (making sure to mark the position of the two parts relative to each other beforehand). The lever is divided into two parts: a lower, larger part (which I'll call Part 1), where the throttle cable is attached, and another part that has the teeth and presses against the idle adjustment screw (let's call this Part 2).
After disassembly, attach part 2 to the pump so that you can move the lever sufficiently both towards full throttle and towards no load. Then, loosen the lock nut of the adjustment screw. Now, you need an assistant to start the car. During the starting process, gently move the lever towards full throttle to ensure it starts properly. If you notice that the engine speed is too high, simply adjust it downwards towards idle and find the position where the idle speed falls within the specified range.

"On my unit, the adjustment screw was set incorrectly, and I had to turn it further out because it was making a lot of noise at full throttle when idling. That's why I loosened the lock nut."

If the idle speed is properly adjusted, make sure to note the position of the notch on the throttle shaft. Then, turn off the engine and reassemble the throttle lever (i.e., connect part 1 and 2 as they were before, and then attach them to the pump along with the spring). Be careful not to misalign the throttle shaft when assembling the throttle lever. After that, start the engine and adjust the idle speed if necessary.

Now we need to see what the soot behavior looks like and adjust the amount accordingly. But there are plenty of posts online about that .

Thank you again to everyone who helped, and I hope my contribution is okay; otherwise, please correct me.

Best regards...

That looks good.
You can also check if the charging speed is correct.
Apply full throttle while stationary until the engine reaches its maximum RPM, which should be 5100 +/- 50 RPM. If the full-throttle limit hasn't been adjusted, this also indicates that the gas pedal linkage is properly set.
Here's a tip regarding the timing adjustment. The 0.95mm lift at top dead center (TDC) seems too high for me (causing premature ignition), and I find that my engine runs best with a lift of 0.88mm to 0.90mm.
You can identify a "too early" setting when the engine only responds with a dull and reluctant sound at the end of the pedal travel, reaching its maximum speed, and doesn't really want to accelerate to its top speed.
hg
Herbert.