Hello everyone,
It's me again.
And now, let's talk about my brother's car: a Volkswagen Golf TDI with a 103kW CFFB engine.
Briefly, here's some background information (if you're not interested, just skip to the next line after the dash):
Four weeks ago, a badger got into the car at night and chewed through a wiring harness located behind the left headlight. I replaced the connectors and repair wiring, cleaned the area including the removed wheel arch liner, and then went for a test drive.
So far, everything was fine. I drove along the country road to the neighboring town and then back via the highway. I was just about to overtake on the left lane when the engine suddenly stopped responding to the accelerator for a short time. For some reason, I pressed the clutch and mentally prepared to pull over to the shoulder when the engine speed, along with a huge cloud of smoke, suddenly shot up to the maximum on the tachometer. I tried briefly to shift into 6th gear and slow the engine down, but it didn't really work, and I was also hesitant to start experimenting with heavy braking at 140 km/h.
The end result... less than 10 seconds later, the internal components of the engine were scattered across the highway and its shoulder, and approximately 5 liters of engine oil covered the entire car.
Police, fire department, tow truck... the whole shebang

.
Cause (at least that's my suspicion): The turbo was the culprit. At least the verschandeln air side was completely full of oil, the shaft had excessive play, and there were significant scratch marks on the exhaust side.
The oil pan was blown off, connecting rod parts were lying on the steering linkage, and there's a fist-sized hole in the engine block between cylinders 2 and 3. On the rear side, you can see the crankshaft, along the entire width of the engine, with connecting rod fragments, pistons, and what remains of the engine block, all the way up to cylinder 4. Anyone who would like can get pictures.
After a long search (a naturally aspirated engine without a turbo, injectors, high-pressure pump, and vacuum pump from VW alone costs 4500€), I finally found an engine rebuilder who was friendly, competent, and not a parts reseller/scrapyard that had a CFFB engine (with supposedly 55,000 km) available at a reasonable price.
Two days later, the engine arrived via freight company. Visually, the 55,000 km mileage seemed consistent with the engine. After installing new filters, seals, a new clutch, and a new dual-mass flywheel (DMF), everything was reassembled, and it was ready to go.
The new engine came with a high-pressure pump and injectors. I then performed the fuel system bleeding process three times using VCDS, entered the correction values for the new injectors, tested the radiator fan, filled and bled the cooling system... and pressed the start button.
The idle was extremely unstable (fluctuating around 200 RPM). As soon as you gave it a little gas, the engine ran perfectly. But if you gave it a bit more, the engine check light would immediately start flashing.
Error: Rail pressure too HIGH.
Since it was late and the boss had already finished preparing the food, I continued the next day. I vented the system two more times using VCDS, and then restarted it again. The idle speed is correct and set at 780 RPM, but the rail pressure error still occurs when the RPM exceeds 1500.
I then simply let the engine run in neutral for 90 minutes, also to check if everything was leak-free. Whatever the reason, the rail pressure error disappeared afterward.
Test drive: Everything's good. Engine runs smoothly, idle speed is correct at traffic lights, clutch engages properly...
I properly detailed the car over the weekend and was happy that this whole ordeal would finally have a good ending.
Please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English.
Okay, from here things get interesting:
This morning, I wanted to do some more extensive testing before my brother gets the car back.
"About 2km after the start, the oil temperature was around 55°C, and I noticed that the engine was smoking quite a bit. It was difficult to stop at that point." And then there's this smell of burnt plastic, like the particulate filter is currently regenerating.
I had my laptop with the VCDS cable plugged in, still in the glove compartment, and I saw: soot mass was well over 20 grams.
Okay, let's get on the highway and first clear the particulate filter. That went quite well. Unfortunately, the smoking didn't stop.
I took a detour past

and interviewed the master there.
He pointed out the discrepancy in the fuel injection amounts.
30 minutes after I got home, I checked there again:
Motor speed: 779 RPM.
Oil temperature: 60°C.
Fuel injection deviation, cylinder 1: 0.18mg/stroke.
Fuel injection deviation, cylinder 2: -0.17 mg/stroke.
Fuel injection deviation, cylinder 3: 0.46mg/stroke.
Fuel injection deviation, cylinder 4: -0.47 mg/stroke.
It looks good at first glance.
Briefly tapped and held the accelerator... again, all values are OK.
During the engine's idle phase, I noticed an unusually uneven engine running.
Motor speed: 825 RPM.
Oil temperature: 69°C
Fuel injection deviation, cylinder 1: -0.21 mg/stroke.
Fuel injection deviation, cylinder 2: -0.35 mg/stroke.
Fuel injection deviation, cylinder 3: 1.09 mg/stroke.
Fuel injection deviation, cylinder 4: -0.69 mg/stroke.
That happened while the engine was returning to its idle speed after the sudden acceleration. The erratic engine running also disappeared after a few seconds, and the values then matched the initially mentioned ones.
The oil ash volume in the DPF is 0.10 liters after 175,000 km. (VW said this doesn't seem right, as it should be higher, but the car is only from 01/2012, so the previous owner likely drove it mostly on the highway).
Does anyone have any ideas about what else I could do here, and where the smoke might be coming from? Is it normal for the fuel injection deviations to be so different when accelerating or decelerating? I'm reluctant to take the car to the workshop because there's a risk of them replacing parts unnecessarily (like injectors or the DPF), which could end up costing us thousands of euros, and the actual problem might have been something very simple.
The car otherwise drives perfectly, has full power, and doesn't register any error codes.
Best regards,
Lars.