PSI Box 1Z: What to Consider?

Hi!

I finally decided to install a tuning box in my 1.0-liter Golf. The PB2000 from PSI seemed like a good deal (ATU price: 314,-).

Has anyone used this product before and perhaps modified it in any way?

Could the injection timing be advanced using VAG-COM to reduce the risk of pistons seizing?

Would it actually provide any additional benefit if I deactivated the EGR system?

What else could I do to get the most out of the car? I like to drive as fast as possible whenever I have the chance.

Thank you very much.
MisterX.

For information:

Golf III TDI 90 hp (1Z) - from 108,000 km with chip tuning - 195 tires - otherwise original.

Well, in that case, a 10-cent adjustment would have been cheaper than the €314.

Best regards, WarLord.

but the registration would probably have cost more.


You could contribute something constructive to the thread instead of just complaining.

misterx wrote:

instead of complaining, you could contribute something constructive to the thread

.

Yep, and you could use the search function. All the information about speakers (from any manufacturer) has already been discussed countless times here.
The topic of agricultural subsidies is already quite boring.
Ulf's threads about his attempts to style an Authal box are a bit outdated, but they are still relevant and can generally be applied to your box as well.

You could, instead of complaining, contribute something constructive to the thread.

Yep, and you could use the search function. All the information about speakers (regardless of the manufacturer) has already been discussed countless times here.
The topic of agricultural subsidies is already quite boring.
Ulf's threads about his attempts to style an Authal Box are quite outdated, but they are still valid and, in principle, can be applied to your box.

The threads are already gathering dust because no one is reading them! Guys, please help prevent the forum from declining and make an effort to read and search before posting!

hi!

Could someone please post the link where Ulf is messing around with his Authalbox?

I seem to be too stupid to find the post about searching.

Hmm, since apparently no one wants to answer, I'll keep digging.


Subject: Nozzles.
I was considering installing larger nozzles. What size should I go up to, and what would they cost? I think the question of whether registration is required for that probably doesn't apply...


Topic: Agricultural subsidies.
'I was trying to disconnect the AGR valve the other day, but unfortunately, I couldn't find it (please forgive my ignorance, I'm a software developer and not a car mechanic). Can someone tell me exactly where it is located and what simple test I can do? I would then like to disable it before driving home from work (distance about 90 km), if it doesn't require any special procedures.'

Topic: LMM.
Interestingly, after the box tuning, I replaced the MAF sensor with a diode (as described in article 1N4148). As a result, the car pulled very poorly in the lower RPM range, and then suddenly would just suddenly accelerate. Is this normal?


I would be very grateful if someone could answer my questions or post a link here in the forum, as my searches haven't been very helpful.


Thank you in advance.
MisterX.

Hello,

Please read the relevant articles on your topics!

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi Rainer!

I've read it through many times already.

Unfortunately, it doesn't say where the AGR valve is located. I would probably just disconnect the connector from the AGR control valve for a test drive first.

Furthermore, a big question for me is whether all of this might be too much for the engine.

PSI-Box + Nozzle tuning + MAF sensor diode + EGR removal = Engine failure?

This is my 13th car, and I've owned this one for the longest time (since 02/03), and I actually don't want to get rid of it anytime soon. The question is, will it last, and what can I do to make sure it does?


PS: Could someone give me a rough idea of how much larger nozzles typically cost?

Hello misterx.

I have a G3 Variant 1Z with a PSI-box, registered with 108 horsepower, manufactured in June 1996.
Installed at 121,000 km.
Today, 166 TKM.
So far, no problems.
Consumption is significantly lower than originally planned.
I drive a Unterturig vehicle, mostly using 5.5 liters of biodiesel. In the winter, I mix it with regular diesel.
Traveling 70,000 kilometers on biodiesel.
I've often driven from Munich to Berlin at full speed, and I haven't had any problems.
The PSI-Box cannot be adjusted; it is a sealed unit.
The performance increase is noticeable, but not overwhelming.
Soot is hardly noticeable.

I got the tuning box because I had problems with EDS before.
It was once replaced by VAG, and after 2 months, it was replaced again under warranty. That's why I haven't dared to do any chip tuning.

Hi Jarek,

Hi Jarek!

I can't really complain about the box.

Overall, I am quite satisfied with the performance. My questions are simply about exploring the possibility of achieving even more, without putting excessive strain on the engine.

'How much did the nozzles cost? Should I use a larger nozzle size with a box, or is that too much? Or would a larger nozzle even be better (due to the increased flow rate)?'

Have you modified anything for biodiesel? According to VAG, the car is not approved for biodiesel, and I haven't used it yet because I'm not sure.

Besides, I can't find that blasted connector for the AGR valve that I wanted to disconnect.
According to my repair manual (So wird's gemacht by H.R. Etzold), the AGR valve is located behind the engine block, and there are two thick (air?) hoses above it. According to a technical article, I can also use the thinner hose that leads to the air filter housing. Would it be okay to simply seal (completely seal) that hose? Or what would be the best thing to use there?

Best regards,
MisterX.

hi
Regarding biodiesel, I can only advise you to stay away from it if you care about your fuel injection pump. Is 'ESP' the abbreviation for fuel injection pump? I drove with biodiesel for almost 3 years. Then, when I was abroad (on vacation), I had to find out that it only started after about 2 minutes of constant cranking. Diesel was leaking from all the openings of the ESP. I took it to a Bosch service center, and they showed me ESPs that had been damaged by biodiesel. It doesn't just affect the seals, but also the surfaces of the internal pump components, which prevents the pump from building up pressure, etc. Bosch knows why they don't approve the use of biodiesel. Biodiesel is simply too aggressive. Just look at the fuel pumps; you'll often see that the paint is peeling off.
look, chris.