1Z Magnetic valve suddenly stopped working.

Hi

Yesterday afternoon (a few degrees below zero), when I turned on the ignition so I could measure the oil in the garage with the headlights on, it was strangely quiet.

The solenoid for the charging pressure regulation is no longer clicking (otherwise, the solenoid is working fine). (My AF control unit always makes the solenoid click).

Only if one got very, very close could one faintly detect a click.

I initially thought it had given up, but after a (somewhat) difficult engine start, it started working again.

Does it need so much juice (high voltage) to click, that the obviously stressed battery could still turn the engine, but it wasn't enough for continuous clicking? (I can't imagine this happening)

Or is it actually slowly going down, and should I invest the EUR 30 for safety's sake NOW, before I have to go home with a charging pressure of 0.6 bar and have to miss out?

m;

[Translating...]

Never touch a running system.

Do you mean, I shouldn't have checked the oil at all ?

I can just buy a spare valve and always have one on hand, just in case.

Ok, then I'll just leave the Trekker as it is.

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

Never touch a running system. Rainer K. wrote: Do you mean, I shouldn't have checked the oil at all

?

... genau, fahre immer weiter, bis es nicht mehr geht ...


Now, seriously:

I wouldn't put too much importance on the missing sound. In my old 1Z, the valve sometimes didn't open completely either (...it also had the AF STG).

Well, it's not really about the noise itself.

But the thing was so quiet that I'm sure it not only didn't make a sound, but it wasn't even turned on!

I had suspected that there might be some frozen moisture or something similar, but then it shouldn't have made a noise after the engine started.

I need to listen to a 1.4 TDI engine with a wastegate turbocharger, which also has this valve. Is that also mounted on the bumper?

I just don't want it to remain in a permanently off position (0.6 bar charging pressure) or even in the other position (charging pressure until it explodes).

Then, it's better to do it proactively and perhaps even quieter

m;

There is no 'overload until it explodes.' Instead, there is a 'shutdown' mode. I know this from my 1Z (it often goes into shutdown mode). Incidentally: The fact that the valve sometimes clicks and sometimes doesn't (primarily when it's very cold) is normal. My 1Z and the 1Z of a friend have this. However, if I think about it: Lately, especially when it was outside, it often went into shutdown mode. However, it also went into shutdown mode in the summer. However, not this morning.

Best regards, WarLord

As I said, the device not only didn't click, but it also didn't switch on. {QUOTE} As stated in the VW manual, you should be able to determine when the device is switched on by observing the "hand placement" or similar.

The thing was dead, until the engine started.

I am familiar with the summer-to-winter differences in clicking.

I don't know if it was the same for you. I haven't tried laying hands on someone.

Best regards, WarLord

I consider it normal. I know 3 cars with 1Z. The rattling is present in all of them. It's almost inaudible or completely gone in the cold. At higher temperatures, it's quite annoying and loud. Replacing the magnetic valve only provided temporary success. Replacing the STG with a newer generation, also for the 1Z (i.e., the ones without EPROM, the ones with flash), eliminated the noise. It seems like there might have been a software error.

@ m3

I have the part number 028 906 021 AF STG, and it's making a rattling noise as soon as the ignition is turned on.

My valve is LOUDER when it's cold - so the opposite of how you describe it.

The 028 906 021 GG (from colleague's AHU) only rattles when the engine is actually running.

Therefore, I also searched in another thread for a safe {MOTOR_LAEUFT_SIGNAL} to simply switch off the valve with a relay.

Regarding my valve, the noise and functionality are IDENTICAL. If it doesn't work, it does nothing, so the "not working" really shocked me.

m;

So, der Original ist im Passat mit der Teilenummer 028 906 021 B verbaut gewesen. Das neuere hatte die Teilenummer 028 906 021 FB. Ich denke, es stammt von einem Vento oder Golf. This meant that the ticking sound had disappeared when the engine was not running.
Why does it bother you that the ticking is happening? Yes, it's annoying, but as long as there's no reason to, I wouldn't change a thing! As IT professionals often say: Never touch a running system.

As IT professionals say so nicely: Never touch a running system.

Unfortunately, one could clearly see this from the Blasters and SQL Slammers.

Best regards, WarLord

Okay, hier ist die Übersetzung:

So:

I started this thread because I was suddenly disturbed/frightened by the sudden failure of the valve.

The idea of eliminating the ticker using the Relais_patch stems from my "it'll-be-even-better" philosophy.

The Trekker has also become quieter when used with the AFN cover - even though it's actually pointless to put so much effort into it

m;

Never touch a running system.

Unfortunately, one could clearly see this from the Blasters and SQL Slammers.

Best regards, WarLord


Right! But a responsible administrator doesn't have these problems. They patch their systems promptly and regularly. If the threat only becomes a problem when it's already too late, and hasn't been detected and blocked by rules, etc., on the firewall or elsewhere. But enough off-topic talk?

Therefore:

I started this thread because I was suddenly disturbed/frightened by the sudden failure of the valve.

The idea of eliminating the ticker using the Relais_patch stems from my 'it'll-be-even-better' philosophy.

The Trekker has also become quieter when used with the AFN cover - even though it's actually pointless to put so much effort into it

m;

Make it clear to me! I've been annoyed sometimes too. But as long as the load values etc. are correct, I don't care about the ticking. If you're unlucky, you're just making things worse with your 'It can still be done better' philosophy.
How should I have phrased it in a signature like this: 'measure first - then screw - otherwise you might have to pay dearly for it'?

I've measured pretty much everything that's possible.

I haven't yet analyzed the last 150 km drive. (Due to E-meter limits, as the car gets less air when it's running above 3000 RPM)

LDD looks okay, although I would have preferred it earlier - but that's how it is with a Wastegate Lada

m;