Relay Clickers Cold Start

Hello,

Since the beginning of winter, I've been having an electrical problem with the electronics in my Golf 4 TDI (ALH). After a cold start, a relay clicking sound comes from the area of the left footwell during the first few kilometers (glow plug relay?). Interestingly, this only happens at an engine speed of around 1,500 rpm, but then it occurs irregularly, about once per second.
'I'm also experiencing intermittent flickering of the low beam headlights and the interior lights. I tried replacing the battery, but it didn't improve the situation. It seems like the problem is likely with the voltage regulator. Is there a connection between these two issues, or are they two separate problems?'

Thank you for the advice, Thomas.

Normally, the afterglow should stop. At approximately 2500 RPM, you should hear a click, and the afterglow will cease. If the RPM drops below that, the afterglow will resume.

Didn't Jan6K already clarify that the afterglow would be completely disabled once the 2500 mark was exceeded?

I'm thinking more about the glow plug heating system; as far as I know, its switching threshold is 1400. If the temperature drops below that, it shuts off to avoid putting too much strain on the engine.

I also hear this clicking sound at 1400 RPM (95 1Z) - although, during the actuator diagnosis, the relay for the heating sounds completely different (which can really cause the entire spray nozzle to click ).

m

The relay for the glow plug heating is located in the engine compartment, and you probably won't hear it click.

@ Julian

HA!!! That's the loudest sound I hear when I run a diagnostic test on an actuator!

Exactly because it's located at the top of the injection molding machine and thoroughly agitates the mold.

I can also hear the pressure relief valve, which is mounted in rubber, right at the front, next to the air filter... INSIDE the car, with the doors closed!!!

m

Hello,

I would also consider a single on/off cycle to be normal. However, in my case, after exceeding the activation speed, a wild clicking sound starts with dozens of switching operations occurring in fractions of a second, which only stops after a few minutes of driving or when idling.
I can't imagine that this is particularly beneficial for the lifespan of the relay or the glow plugs.

Thomas.

That sounds like a defect.

Try attaching LED lights to the candles (both the wax part and the wick area).

Then you'll be able to see which ones are being targeted.

m;

Try attaching some LED lights to the candles (both the water section and the combustion chamber).

Then you'll be able to see which ones are being targeted.


He could also make it simpler.
To identify the cause, check which relay is triggering (while the engine is idling at >=1500 RPM) and note the relay number and its position in the fuse box.

Regards,
Private.

Hi,

Quote:

Didn't Jan6K already clarify that the afterglow would be completely disabled once the 2500 mark was exceeded?

Yep, I tested it and wrote about it before, but it was like this:

When exceeding approximately 2000, the afterglow turns off, but then restarts with a small hysteresis below 2000.

I don't know if this is also the case towards the end of the afterglow cycle, because I normally don't operate in that range when the system is cold (this has only happened to me twice so far - once accidentally, and once intentionally to test it).

Best regards,

Jan.

So, in my ALH engine, the afterglow always kicked in exactly at 2500 RPM and turned back on just below 2500 RPM.
I honestly didn't hear the clicking sound coming from the engine compartment when the engine was cold, but it was also a Golf 4, which is probably much better insulated than a Golf 3.

The glow plug heater is NOT speed-dependent (what logic would that follow?), it turns on when the outside temperature is below +5°C (measured by the mass airflow sensor), and turns off again when the coolant temperature is above 50°C.

@ Julian

A 1Z never knows how cold it is outside!

HE DOES NOT HAVE A TEMPERATURE SENSOR ON THE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. (Only engine coolant and intake air are present between the intercooler and the intake manifold).

I don't know if the ALH has one.

I'm going to simply test the water flow rate's dependence on speed using LEDs.

"The logic would be: It's better to drain the fuel system than to stall the engine (I think I read something like that in the repair manual)."
If you want, I can find the passage for you.

m;

Insulating a G3 is a real joke!

So, once again, only the old method of sensor signal manipulation remained - in this case, at the charge air temperature sensor, which also determines the outside temperature for the glow plug heating system.

Regards,
Private.

@ Private.

It is clear that the glow plugs (both groups) depend on certain temperatures.

The (at least the 1Z-) TDI does NOT have a real external temperature sensor.

And the 0-30 degrees Celsius reading, which the intake air temperature sensor measures, is NOT a measurement of the outside air temperature, but rather the temperature of the intake air.

For a cold start, this sensor naturally provides "approximately suitable" values.

It would be news to me if the LMM (likely referring to a language model) revealed any temperature values.

m;

I don't know if the ALH has one.


Okay, I'm starting to feel really annoyed by you. In the anxiety thread, it's clearly stated that he drives a Golf 4 TDI ALH...

Hi,

Quote:

Okay, so my ALH always idles exactly at 2500 RPM...

Hmm... now you're making me think... was it 2500?

It's been a while, so...

SEARCH FUNCTION

/viewtopic.php?t=4590&highlight=2500

You are right, and I take everything back... it's 2500, not 2000. Scroll down to my third post in the thread.

Best regards,

Jan.

@ Julian

I don't want to be fooled .

Therefore, I always added that I know the 1Z engine quite well, but I don't want to assume that it's exactly the same as an ALH engine.

If you're being that specific, you'd also have to address Jan, because he's talking about his ASV.

The ALH is, after all, the grandson of the 1Z (the "father" is the AGR). And why would the ALH suddenly need another temperature sensor?

Besides that, a mass airflow sensor still doesn't measure temperature, which is definitely a bug... Or am I wrong?

Actually, Ulf's article isn't entirely correct (I'm deliberately avoiding the word "wrong"), because the charge air temperature sensor only shows the outside temperature when the engine is completely cooled down.

m;