AGR Valve & Intake Manifold: Photos & Details

Hi.

Jan has uploaded a 18 MB ZIP file containing all my pictures in 2MP resolution from the last tinkering event.

http://www.informatik.hu-berlin.de/~richling/tmp/AGR-Saugbruecke.zip

Unfortunately, I forgot to document the upgraded turbocharger .
I was so impressed by the part and shocked by the behavior of the turbo (hence probably all the oil in the intake manifold), that I only cleaned and re-soldered the wastegate actuator and emptied the oil from the wastegate pressure sensor.

Meanwhile, everything is back together and it's still working...

m;

These pictures no longer exist.


Here are the smaller ones again:

http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/AGR_Saugstutzen/
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/AGR_Saugstutzen_sauber/
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/Kruemmer/

http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/viele_Teile.jpg

Something like an old computer saying comes to mind...

Never touch a running system.

Thanks a lot! Beautiful shot of the attic in picture 2418 .
But what's happening in the 2420 with the burner located behind the engine block? Is it used to burn off deposits?

@ Hugo

Sure, and wait until the leak in the impeller burns my brain out?

@ Gerbi

Let's fiddle with the (then still almost) round screw a bit, to see if it might be willing to move .

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

hello martin
Yesterday, I removed my AGV (Automated Guided Vehicle) and wanted to verschandeln it.
'This dirt from Russia is really difficult to deal with; it's so sticky.'
The intake manifold is now clean, but how did you handle the cylinder head?
'Is it difficult to get in, and what happens if something falls inside?'
best regards, chris

Hi Chris,

I left my hair alone.

That seemed too risky to me, as the dirt could clog the valves or cause other problems.

Maybe I'll check on it after a few thousand kilometers to see if it has self-cleaned.

m,

hi martin
Okay, if you say so, I guess I'll just leave the matter alone then.
I read here that you can use a small handheld vacuum cleaner to remove the particles.
I managed to remove most of it from the front of the stem.
The bridge is practically clean, and I've also made a plate to close the AGV (Automated Guided Vehicle).
Thanks to my mechanic.
I'll assemble everything this afternoon after I've had a good sleep (since I worked the night shift), and hopefully it will work. But there's not much you can change or adjust.
What difference did it actually make for you? Did your car run better?
What modifications have you made to your 1Z engine? How many horsepower does it produce now?
You can email me.
Oh yeah, before I forget.
Do you also have that oil film on your LLK (likely referring to a lens)? I want to verschandeln it. What do you think, will it make a difference?

The intercooler is sealed, but has oil on it.

I even had a few milliliters of oil in the wastegate pressure chamber (note the path of the oil: turbocharger - oil cooler - leakage at the intake manifold - boost control valve - wastegate chamber).

The LKK also needs some oil sump.

I will definitely wash it out sometime next time .

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

"There's a plastic housing on the low-pressure coolant (LLK) line, between the turbocharger and the LLK. It was relatively full of oil (looked like it was mixed with something, who knows what). I drained the housing. So far, I haven't found any information about what this part does. It looks basically like an oil separator, but it could be something else. I would appreciate an explanation if anyone knows."

Best regards,

So, I've put all the fun together.
'The AGV is closed, there's a plate in the middle, and that's it.'
The motor is running.
But could it be that something is wrong with the hard drive?
I just took it for a test drive, and it felt like something was slowing it down.
Martin, do you know anything about what happens when you close the AGV (Automated Guided Vehicle)?
I've put everything back together exactly as it should be, so there are no screws left over. Best regards, Chris.

So, I had already unplugged the pressure sensor a few days before starting the work.

That made him better – more spontaneous, that is.

After that, it stood disassembled in the garage for a week - and after that, the driving experience is definitely affected .

But since the defect, I've hardly ridden my bike with gears at all, because the newfound spontaneity is enough for me.

Only if we're really getting down to business will you get the box with it .

Do you have any leaks?

The NEW!!! gasket for the nozzle with the ridge for the nozzle???

Are all the clamps tightened?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Hello,

Thank you for the detailed illustrations – very informative!
"What price range are we talking about for an intake manifold? Can it be cleaned? Because I have a feeling that my engine could also benefit from a good cleaning."

Hey.
Christoph.

Price range: ????

I soaked that part in diesel for two days – everything is new except the seals and screws (but even those cost almost 100 euros – although that includes parts for the exhaust manifold, because a gasket was leaking).

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Good morning, everyone.
'100 euros is really outrageous pricing from VW.'
That just shows how they're taking money from living people again.
The whole thing didn't cost me anything except a little sweat from assembling and disassembling it.
Okay, a beer or coffee for my mechanic in exchange for the sealant and the blanking plug (AGV).
What kind of pressure transducer connector is it?
Best regards, Chris.
'By the way, I think a wider tire is probably a good idea because more diameter logically means more air volume.'

Hi,

If you remove the intake manifold, you should definitely replace the gasket between it and the cylinder head. The same applies to the gasket between the carburetor and the pipe leading to the EGR valve. Both of these (based on their appearance) are designed in a way that they shouldn't be reused without careful consideration.

The screws were perfectly fine on my unit, so I didn't replace them. However, I still have the new parts that I purchased, in case I need them sometime in the future.

It's also a good idea to replace the gasket between the AGR valve and the EGR cooler pipe... after only 47,000 km, the old gasket already felt more brittle than the replacement part.

If it runs worse after the repair than it did before, there's definitely a possibility of a leak... Have someone give it some gas with the engine warm, and carefully observe the seals – you might even be able to detect a leak while the car is stationary.

Best regards,

January.

@chris

Take a look at the valve and its control system.

The valve is a membrane that is controlled by vacuum pressure. A hose connects it to a small "solenoid valve," also known as a pressure transducer. This device mixes vacuum with outside air to create either "a lot" or "a little" vacuum pressure.

If you unplug the electrical connector, there should be an error code (which wasn't the case for me), but the actual valve on the manifold is broken.

Otherwise, let's start with this:
/viewtopic.php?t=3101&highlight=steering+tire*
read.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.