ESP Installation/Removal for AEL Vehicles

Hello professionals.

A very kind fellow countryman referred me to you.
I'm now going to ask my first question, and I hope you won't kick me out right away.
'In my V70, the ESP (on the engine block) has become loose for an unknown reason (used engine from a car involved in an accident). The Bosch service says that the upper left screw has come loose (I don't yet know if it's just the threads or the entire bracket).'
1. What should I pay attention to when disassembling the pump (first the pump, then the pump base?) (e.g., markings, etc.)?
What can I do (besides using a new block) if a thread repair kit doesn't work?
Thank you for any response.

Hi,
1. You won't get far with markings alone. Refer to the technical article on VP37 configuration. It's best to perform the tests before removing the component.
Otherwise, any advice I can offer will largely depend on your existing knowledge.

Hello.
I'm already familiar with the story of the Mengenstellwerk.
My prior knowledge (I'm an electrician) regarding TDIs only extends to completely disassembling my old engine. However, I did remove the fuel pump along with the pump housing – which is a bit more difficult with the engine still installed. (I've also replaced engine components like the air conditioning compressor, water pump, and exhaust system, among other things.)
I already have the OBD software at home, but I don't have a cable yet. As usual, the pin configuration for a V70 is different from that of an Audi.
Besides that, I don't want to start my mill again - I'm glad I managed to get it from the Bosch service center back home. That's why I'm asking such silly questions here (I can't access any target values). I also don't want to disassemble my spare pump to find out the following:
My question, more precisely stated, is: How well or poorly is the ESP (including the flow meter) centered on the pump manifold? How can I get it back into the correct position? And what could be the consequences if it's not (I have about 30 km to the nearest Bosch service center, so I'd have to travel quite a distance).
And still unresolved: What should I do if it's not the thread itself, but the entire cast part on the engine block that is torn (according to Bosch's diagnosis)?
Please forgive me if I seem a bit clueless here, but I want to be sure before I start working on it (changing two engines in a year seems like a bit much).
As always, thank you for any advice.
Marius.

You certainly won't come across as stupid.

Because in your case, caution and planning are required, otherwise it will definitely not be cheap. You are not the only one here who wants to protect themselves by looking at suggestions and experiences from other DIY enthusiasts.
Since this forum is the right place for you, I assume it will certainly help you. It might just take a little while (in this case) for the 'right' expert to recognize your problem and offer a suggestion.

So, it's better to be a little patient, as that usually saves a lot of money!

Best regards, Georg.

Hi,
Not stupid, but a bit brief in the first post. You'll need patience, as 5-cylinder engines aren't very common here, and it might take some time if the 2 or 3 people who could answer your question are currently on vacation.
In my opinion, there isn't much to mark because the injection timing is adjusted at the crankshaft pulley.
If the timing is roughly correct at the crankshaft and camshaft, it will at least start, and the rest can be diagnosed from there.
If the thread cannot be repaired in this way, it might be possible to try welding it. However, this requires not only special welding rods but also someone who is experienced in this technique.

Evening!

Regarding thread repair, I recommend Helicoil.
http://www.bollhoff.com/web/web.nsf/HTML/184D48AF7F9062D2C1256E1C002E066C
Threads repaired in this way often hold just as well, or even better, than the original.

hi,
Have you done anything yet?
Hi Bastianna,