Camshaft Timing: Are You Dumb Enough to Fail?

I've looked at the instructions now, and frankly, I don't understand a thing.

Ich muss die Kurbelwelle auf den OT für den 1. Zylinder bringen. Soweit ist alles klar, aber wie stelle ich denn nun fest, um wieviel ° die Einstellung abweicht? Gibt es an der Nockenwelle auch eine Markierung für den OT des 1. ZyLinder or not?

Best regards, WarLord.

WarLord wrote:

I've now looked at the instructions, and frankly, I don't understand anything at all. I need to align the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder number 1. So far, everything is clear, but how do I determine by how many degrees the setting deviates? Is there also a marking on the camshaft for the TDC of cylinder number 1, or not?

Do you mean the PD manual?

Then the NW (Northwest) side must be in the position shown in the photos (and not, for example, rotated 180 degrees).

The precise "marking" of the NW (presumably a specific point or location) is the stake position. This can only be determined by feeling it with the staking tool.
The alignment mark for visual inspection (the Hall sensor mark relative to the embossed mark on the timing chain cover) is too inaccurate for precise adjustment.

Yes, PD instructions.

Okay, so, if I position the crankshaft at Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder 1 and I can get my drill (as far as I can see) to go in about 6 cm, does that mean my engine is properly timed? Should all of this be within the long hole (where the drill is inserted), or how should I interpret that?

Best regards, WarLord.

hi!

Quote:

That means, if I position the crankshaft at TDC (Top Dead Center) for cylinder 1 and I can insert my drill (as far as I can see) by a full 6 cm, does that mean my engine is properly timed?

Yes! It's especially important that you really insert the drill bit completely (i.e., the 6cm) into the hole! Otherwise, it can be misleading, and you might not have properly secured the nozzle.

Quote:

Should all of this be located within the drill chuck (that's where the drill bit is inserted), or how should I interpret this?

Okay, so... the main bearing is in two pieces. By loosening the three screws, you only rotate the outer part, which has the elongated hole you mentioned! Behind this elongated hole is the second (inner) part of the main bearing. This part does NOT have an elongated hole, but rather a very precise guide for the drill bit, which then engages in a very precisely sized blind hole in the cylinder head.
The goal now is to lock the crankshaft, as Ulf also mentioned. IF everything is 100% correct, the drill should pass through the outer timing wheel (through the elongated hole), then fit into the guide of the inner wheel, and finally slide into the hole in the cylinder head. If necessary, you can also use a flashlight to look through the aforementioned elongated hole; then you'll see what I mean.
I hope I've managed to explain that in a way that makes sense...

Dirk.

brezelmann01 wrote:

The goal is now to lock the trucks.

No: "Arretiert" means "secured," and in this context, it refers to the northwest (NW) being secured or blocked off.
With the fixed timing belt, the crankshaft can no longer be rotated (except slightly in reverse, but in that case, only the tensioner for the accessory drive belt is moved).
If the KW is in the top dead center (TDC) position, then the adjustment is correct.

I'll see if I can make the text of the article a bit more precise.

Okay, okay I was assuming the use of the Hazet tool set *thinking error*. Of course, that's not correct in relation to your article... thanks!

Dirk.