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Corroded VTG rod, don't know what to do next.

 
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Arno
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Post18-12-2004, 17:01    Subject: Corroded VTG rod, don't know what to do next. Quote

Hello everyone,

I haven't really found an answer to my question using the search function, so I'm turning to you directly.

I recently wanted to install a larger vacuum cylinder for the VTG on my AFN icon_evil.gif. (Yes, I still have a small cylinder in there icon_mad.gif). However, the adjustment screw on the linkage is so corroded that I couldn't get it loose, even with a lot of penetrating oil. I had to do the whole thing while it was still installed, because the screws on the exhaust manifold and turbo were so rusty that they were 'fused' to the flange icon_question.gif.
Is there a way to loosen the adjustment screw icon_question.gif icon_question.gif icon_evil.gif? Due to the 'mechanic-friendly' space behind the engine, it's difficult to get a good grip on the screw, even with a small pair of pliers, to apply more torque. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Or is there nothing left to do but remove the entire turbo? Thank you in advance for your answers.


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dieselschrauber
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Post18-12-2004, 22:58    Subject: Corroded VTG rod, don't know what to do next. Quote

Hi,

If it's really stuck, just give the oil some time. Spray with MoS2 creeping oil every week for a month, and if it doesn't work after that... well, icon_confused.gif
Perhaps you can detach the entire adjustment rod from the lever; I thought there was only a retaining ring on the adjustment lever.
I'm sure about that, but I'm not sure about this. You'll probably have to approach it cautiously.
If the mechanism is already difficult to operate, which is probably why you want to replace the canister, it might not be a bad idea to remove the entire loader, disassemble it, and verschandeln the VTG mechanism. You only have a 50% chance of assembling it incorrectly.
icon_cool.gif

Best regards, Rainer.


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Bee
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Post19-12-2004, 12:15    Subject: Corroded VTG rod, don't know what to do next. Quote

Hi,

EVERY screw comes loose!
Here's a little-known trick: Take an acetylene or hydrogen welding torch and heat the female and male threads until they are red hot. Then, immediately use a wrench to tighten them. Each screw will then loosen with minimal effort!
Caution: Be careful of surrounding plastic. It may be necessary to shield it with wet felt, a cloth, or a heat shield (from the exhaust or catalytic converter).
Duration of the operation: 1 minute, and each screw is opened without causing damage.
As Rainer says, when dealing with plastic parts: MoS2 anti-friction lubricant and time will solve the problem. With gentle icon_exclaim.gif hammer taps, the rust in the threads easily loosens, allowing the creeping oil to spread more effectively.


Regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Micha'


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Arno
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Post19-12-2004, 16:05    Subject: Corroded VTG rod, don't know what to do next. Quote

Thank you for the prompt replies.

Well, I only gave the penetrating oil half an hour icon_rolleyes.gif.
But I'll let it work its magic for a longer period, as Rainer described, and if that doesn't work, I can always go back to Plan B. But that is very difficult because all the screws on mine are extremely rusted (I have a long-distance vehicle icon_biggrin.gif that apparently was always well-preserved icon_evil.gif).
An old trick among insiders: Take an acetylene or hydrogen welding torch and heat the female and male threads until they glow.
Can this also be done with a propane burner? Unfortunately, I don't have an acetylene torch.

Thank you for the tip, but I still doubt that extremely rusted screws can be opened again and still function properly. Just by tapping the rust away, you might be able to use a smaller size nut than a 13mm one – perhaps an 11mm or even smaller.

If the mechanics are already difficult to operate, which is probably why you want to replace the canister, it would probably be a good idea to remove the entire loader, disassemble it, and verschandeln the VTG mechanism. There is only a 50% chance of assembling it incorrectly .
If Plan B becomes unavoidable, I will definitely do it, but would any new seals be needed on the turbo for this operation (other than the ones on the exhaust ports and the oil line)?


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Bee
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Post19-12-2004, 19:38    Subject: Corroded VTG rod, don't know what to do next. Quote

Hi,

You can also use a propane burner. The most important thing is that it turns a deep, fiery red!

You can be sure: I've already opened screws that didn't even look like screws anymore. It really goes very smoothly. Just make sure it gets really hot!


Regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Micha'


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oldewurtel
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Post20-12-2004, 15:45    Subject: Corroded VTG rod, don't know what to do next. Quote

Hello ampac!

Where did you find another large VTG container? I have been looking for a replacement for my AFN ('no longer available' icon_evil.gif) for quite some time.
Do you have any more for me?? icon_wink.gif, Price??

Best regards,
Kassen Oldewurtel.


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Arno
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Post20-12-2004, 21:31    Subject: Corroded VTG rod, don't know what to do next. Quote

Hello,

Okay, the adjustment screw now receives its dose of lubricating oil every day (or every other day). I assume that, under such conditions, two weeks of exposure time should be sufficient.

Where did you find another large VTG can?? I have been looking for a replacement for my AFN (which is no longer available) for quite some time.
Do you have any more for me?? Price??

Yes, unfortunately, you can't buy the cans individually anymore. I also faced this problem not so long ago icon_mad.gif.

/viewtopic.php?t=7460&highlight=where+dose

I found a GT1749V from an ALH on icon_confused.gif ****. In my opinion, this cartridge with the 'large' one should be identical to the VNT15. The entire turbocharger cost me 200 euros (supposedly defective), and even for a wastegate, you can't really go wrong at that price. The cartridge works wonderfully, but unfortunately, the adjustment screw on my turbocharger is stuck . I would ideally like to replace the entire loader right away, but since I don't know what's wrong with it (the shaft is smooth, but that doesn't necessarily indicate the problem), I'm hesitant to do so.


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