The famous KW screw 1Z, a detailed question

Aloha everyone!
While browsing, I've come across quite a lot of information. It's a shame I can't use it all myself, but I'll pass it on to my mechanic. Recently, I discovered that the timing belt tensioner bolt can remain in place even when replacing the timing belt, as long as it's already the new one.
And it's secure. The question is, what does "secure" mean? Is it acceptable for the counterweight wheel to wobble slightly when visible? Or does it need to be completely fixed and stable? Can a slightly loose belt tensioner cause enough disturbance to distort the readings?

Best regards,
Torsten.

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Is it permissible for the rear wheel to slightly spin or slip in that lower position? Or does it have to be absolutely foolproof?
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It absolutely has to be rock solid. Then nothing will happen.

Aloha Hati!
Thanks for the information! Right now, it's wobbling very slightly. But I don't think it's caused by a failing bearing or the tensioner, which is also a bit loose. This wheel should be firmly fixed and unaffected by anything else. Does that mean that if it's moving, it's loose itself, and not something else somewhere else?
I'm not even sure if I'm seeing this correctly, but it's visible from above in the engine compartment, and in my case, it seems to be doubled because the belt for the alternator and the belt for the air conditioning compressor are running over it. How about that screw, is it always the same one???
The timing probably isn't too far off, as it starts without any problems. However, when listening near the timing belt cover, there's a sound, like something metallic is being repeatedly struck. I mean, it could be coming from the wobbly wheel, if for example it hits the block when there's very little clearance???

Best regards,
Torsten.

You know, this is about the part of the wheel where the timing belt actually runs.

It is firmly connected to the crankshaft and must not be loose in any way!!! Nothing should wobble. The vibration damper is bolted to the wheel, and V-belts and ribbed V-belts run on it. It should be securely attached, but for now, it doesn't really have anything to do with the timing belt... (if the pulley breaks off, that's definitely not good either...)

So, please take a closer look to see exactly what's going on and fix it...

Aloha cksIT!
Okay, I had some problems with that . Nowadays, I see it the way you describe: the water pump pulley itself is under the cover, invisible, just like the timing chain tensioner.
Looking from above, you can see the two belts running over a double wheel.
Is that probably the vibration damper? It moves easily, and in my opinion, it might currently be due to the loose belt tensioner, right?
In 3 weeks, I hope to have this resolved. Until then, I'll be driving less, as I'll have to drive 250 km to the workshop (thanks, family!).

Best regards,
Torsten.

No.

If the tensioner is adjusting the vibration damper, then either the damper is broken or loose, or the timing belt pulley is loose.

You correctly identified the parts.

If you want to do something good for the belt, the tensioner, and yourself, replace the freewheel on the alternator.
Search for off-leash areas.

m;

Aloha Dieselmartin!
Thank you very much! That sounds very interesting. That will make my wish list even longer... Christmas is going to be very expensive.
It's slowly starting to dawn on me: 1. How did they manage to make the car significantly quieter in the service? It was probably maintenance work on the suspension components, as described in your link. 2. Why are there so many damages to the crankshaft, flywheel, etc.?
Of course, because it's a rather flawed design, but also because it's a chain of problems, and one issue can trigger the others. This is especially true with inadequate maintenance of even a single component (e.g., timing belt, crankshaft pulley, crankshaft pulley bolt, vibration damper, belt tensioner, possibly a pulley, alternator!). Really damned
It absolutely has to be done before we head south.
Thank you everyone!

Best regards,
Torsten.

Aloha everyone!
Okay, new year, new parts... Among other things, a new belt tensioner and a freewheel hub for the alternator have been installed. The vibration damper at the bottom is still swaying slightly.
I will check that soon.
Best regards,
Torsten.

HI

Can you express "very slightly" in millimeters, referring to how much the part warps or deforms?
Mine probably had a lateral movement of 1-2 mm at most.

I let it go.

m;

Aloha Martin!
Yes, that's what I would also think. You can only hear it under good visibility conditions (light/dark). There's this very high-pitched ringing sound, irregular, coming from down there. I have a slight suspicion that something might be wrong with the 4 screws on the vibration damper after the last timing belt change, or that the previously very loose tensioner might have triggered something (first timing belt change, then the tensioner was replaced, with a few thousand kilometers in between). Also, on my last vacation trip, I got the impression that when accelerating from 100-110 km/h (comfortably on the highway, fully loaded), there was quite a lot of smoke. The fuel injection system was recently working properly, but I'd like to check it further.

Best regards,
Torsten.

Hello,
I once had to replace a cylinder head because a central bolt broke, and that was still the cheap repair option... so:
If the flat belt (of the alternator) or the flat pulley on the crankshaft are wobbling in rhythm with the engine's rotation, there are three possible causes:
1. The rubber insert in the flat pulley, which acts as a vibration damper, is loose.
2. The flat pulley is loosely attached to the toothed pulley (which is not visible from the outside without removing the cover).
3. The timing pulley is loose.
The third scenario is the most likely, and by far the most consequential and expensive.
If you also hear a slight, rhythmic rattling sound, it's likely that the timing pulley is starting to come loose from the crankshaft stub. This will wear down the fit, widen the groove for the timing belt, and eventually, at the worst possible time, the timing pulley will slip off the crankshaft stub. This will cause the crankshaft to rotate, the camshaft and valves to stop, the valves to come into closer contact with the pistons, and so on. In extreme cases, this means a new engine block, costing around €1,700 excluding parts and labor, or it could be considered a total loss, or at the very least, a replacement cylinder head is required – I'm speaking from experience.
To put it simply: Nothing fixes itself, and some things need to be done before they start causing problems on their own. In this case: the V-belt is loose, the flat belt is loose, the cover needs to be removed, and the timing pulley needs to be checked for wobble. The effort required is small compared to the consequences!
Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.