Delle im Längsträger -> nix mehr TÜV? | Posts 16+

Hutfahrer wrote:

The repair method used by the dent therapist will certainly involve the use of a spot welder.

He said to mark small points and then pull the metal back out using those points. Is that what a spot welder is?

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After that, apply zinc dust (spray) and a paintable underbody sealant to the exposed and burnt metal spots from the outside. Let it dry thoroughly, then use matching spray paint (have it mixed!) to make them visually disappear. Carefully mask adjacent painted surfaces. Through the water drainage openings, you can apply cavity protection wax from the container into the cavities using a detachable probe. The spot welds that the technician left on the outside are also present on the inside. Any factory preservation in those areas will have burned off. Apply wax and it's good!

Thank you for the tips.
"After photos will be shared at the appropriate time. However, it might take a few weeks."

Hi Ulf, after seeing the pictures, I also think that prying up the nails and removing them is better than gluing. And if the textured coating is already damaged, you can have the nails removed and repaint it yourself.
The Dellena stripping set I mentioned is from Berner. I don't remember the exact price anymore, but I think it was around €250?? I borrowed it from my employer whenever I needed it.

teileklaus wrote:

Hi Ulf, after seeing the pictures, I also think that prying up the nails and removing them is better than gluing them down. And if the textured paint is already damaged anyway, you can have it removed and repaint it yourself. The Dellenausziehset

that I mentioned is from Berner. I don't remember the price anymore, but I estimate it to be around €250?? I borrowed it from my employer when I needed it. }Ah yes, thank you... hmm, I actually don't want to have so many dents in my Poldi }that the set would be worth it for me. }

Take the €50 offer.

teileklaus wrote:

I'll take the €50 offer.

I will do it.

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The spots created by the spotter, which are bare and burnt metal areas, are treated with zinc dust (spray) and a paintable underbody sealant.

One more quick question: Is there anything to consider when choosing the zinc spray to ensure the corrosion protection is as good as possible?
A few specific product recommendations would be welcome here .

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Kleine Frage noch: gibts bei der Auswahl des Zinksprays etwas zu beachten, damit der Korrosionsschutz wieder so gut wie möglich wird?

Yes, because most zinc sprays are unsuitable for this application, as they can only be partially overcoated, and the high zinc content can lead to poor adhesion. You need a weather-resistant primer that can also be filled if necessary. Good painters use "EP" for this purpose, which is an epoxy-based primer. There might also be products like that available in spray form.

I didn't mention "zinc dust (spray)" for nothing. While the standard zinc oxide gel is good if you want something to use "just like that" and don't require it to be paintable, it's not suitable in all cases. For example, when preserving welds. If the manufacturer writes "paintable" on the can, then it usually does allow for painting.

Here, the local paint supplier has a can of "Zinc Dust Primer" in stock, which is described as being suitable for topcoating with all acrylic-based paints and coatings, and so far it has been easy to apply and overcoat. I don't recall the manufacturer at the moment.

Ich empfehle fuer gute Lackierergebnisse die Spraydose z. B. im heißen Wasserbad (Waschbecken, maximal 40 °C) vorzuwaermen. Vorteile: Bessere "Fliessfaehigkeit", d. h. duennerer Schichtaufbau und damit weniger Gefahr so genannter "Nasenbildung". Man koennte (ohne Anschleifen) mit 2K Spachtel drauf gehen, sobald das Zeug durchgetrocknet war. Bei 20 °C und geringer Luftfeuchtigkeit ist das nach rund 2 h moeglich. The only important thing is that the zinc dust spray must not be air-dried; otherwise, it will crack.

However, in the case mentioned above, there's no need to go through such a complicated process. Instead, you apply the topcoat-compatible underbody sealant directly over the zinc primer, followed by the top coat. The desired orange peel effect is achieved with the underbody sealant, and you don't have to pay much attention to perfect surface preparation. I wouldn't waste a single gram of filler on that.

BM wrote:

Most zinc sprays are unsuitable for this application because they can only be partially overcoated, and due to the high zinc content, adhesion may be inadequate. You need a weather-resistant primer that can also be filled if necessary. Good painters use "EP" for this purpose. This is an epoxy-based primer. Possibly, you can also find this product as a spray.

Hutfahrer wrote:

I didn't mention "zinc dust (spray)" for nothing. While the normal zinc oxide stuff is good if you want to use it "just like that" and don't require top coating, for example when preserving welds, the product on the can will usually say "paintable" if the manufacturer indicates that it is. Hier hat der oertliche Lackiererbedarf eine Dose "Zinkstaub-Grundierung, ueberlackierbar mit allen Farben und Lacken auf Acrylbasis" im Sortiment, die sich bislang ganz gut verarbeiten und überlackieren ließ.

Hmm, that sounds like something you can't just pick up at the local hardware store...
Then I will ask specific questions in those areas. First of all, thank you, but further tips are certainly welcome .

OT: Hm, irgendwie verschluckt mein FF doch immer wieder die "Beiträge seit dem letzten Besuch anzeigen" . Irgendwas fehlt da immer. OT\

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First, apply the zinc primer, then the over-paintable underbody sealant, and finally the topcoat. The desired orange peel effect is achieved with the underbody sealant, and you don't need to pay much attention to perfect surface preparation. I wouldn't waste a single gram of filler on that.

Well, I find it doubtful that this can be done without any filler at all when repairing a spot . You could also paint or wallpaper your car with a roller

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. My opinion is: If you're already putting in the effort, you should aim for a satisfactory result, or you can save yourself the trouble and just glue everything together accordingly. I think we should wait to see what the threshold looks like after it's been straightened and then react accordingly. @Ulf

Dann werde ich mal gezielt in diese Richtungen fragen.}

Go to a reputable paint shop and have them mix you the right color. If necessary, you can also apply it with a brush.

Okay, I was at the guy's place who specializes in fixing dents for €50.

Fortunately, he first tried using the adhesive tool, even though he was skeptical about whether it would be able to generate enough pulling force on the metal sheet due to its thickness.
It is estimated that the "adhesive apples" have detached from the metal sheet about 10 times (also because the layer of stone chip protection that I applied as rust protection kept peeling off in layers).

But because I was there and always cleaned the containers while he attached a new one or waited for the hot glue to set, they sometimes held well enough that he could pull the metal sheet back into its normal shape with it again - so without spot welding and burnt cavity wax .

I'm currently filling the remaining depressions layer by layer with spray-on stone chip protection, and in a few days (when all the solvents have evaporated), I'll apply some spray paint on top: that should be enough.

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I am currently filling the remaining small depressions layer by layer with spray-on stone chip protection, and in a few days (when all the solvents have evaporated), I will apply some spray paint on top: that should be enough.

Great that it worked out so well. Some types of stone chip coating can be sanded after they have dried completely, if you want to remove any imperfections. Then, apply another coat with the spray gun. It is also sometimes possible to apply a thin layer of filler in between coats.