Audi Allroad: No Power? Check Turbo Pressure.

Hello,

I just had a 2.5 TDI Allroad (AKE) in my shop. The problem was extremely poor performance. It could only go uphill in first gear.
"The error memory indicated: Intermittent issue with the intake manifold pressure control differential!"
I then discovered that the VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) adjustment was no longer working at all when the engine started. After checking the vacuum hoses, I found the defect in the turbocharger control valve (N75) for boost pressure. I replaced it, and then the VTG moved correctly into its position. I then tried to start the vehicle, but I couldn't accelerate because the vehicle was smoking excessively and I couldn't get it to rev above 1500 RPM .
Then I ran VCDS again and discovered a faulty AGR valve. I checked the pressure sensor - it was okay.
Then also the corresponding solenoid valve (which is located next to the boost pressure control valve). And I came to the conclusion again that it was defective. } So, I also replaced this valve, and the car runs perfectly!

"Since the whole situation seemed very strange to me (HOW COULD BOTH VALVES BE DEFECTIVE AT THE SAME TIME), I examined and opened the valves more closely. And now here's the thing: Inside the valves, there were salt deposits. These deposits had entered the valves through the ventilation hose (which is connected to the air filter housing for atmospheric pressure) from the air filter box. When I opened the air filter, the sight was horrifying: Everything was full of saltwater and dirt that had been sucked in through the snow and mud."

Is anyone familiar with this? How does all this stuff get in there? Is there a solution to this problem?

Best regards, Luigi.

The problem is basically known, but rare. For the Nordland models, there is an air filter housing with a snow filter. This information might be found somewhere under "troubleshooting" or "instructions" for the AFB.

"As a preventative measure and to avoid recurring issues (water intake), the following parts (Nordland version) can be installed:"
Air filter lower section with snow deflector, part number 4B0 133 837 F.
Air intake snorkel with coarse mesh, part number 4B0 129 617 F.

Below the air filter, there is a circular opening in the bodywork that leads to the wheel well. The fuel lines pass through this opening. To prevent water from splashing into the air filter through this opening, it should be sealed with suitable material (e.g., bodywork foam).

Hi,

An interesting article regarding a Northern Europe configuration. I'll take a closer look at it. The problem is that the car is often driven on hilly roads with high salt content and a lot of snow and slush during the winter. Therefore, the idea of a conversion is not a bad one. Best regards.

Quote:

How does all that stuff get in there? Is there a solution to this problem

?
It would be advisable to maintain a greater following distance. I also had something in mine, not much. It was very icy slush, quite salty. My air filter housing has a water drain hole, but only in one place. Perhaps a small hole could be drilled where the dirt tends to accumulate. Original air filters should actually be able to effectively prevent water from getting through, so the area behind the filter should be okay.