Probleme nach Zahnriemen Wechsel 1,9TDI BKC _______(GELÖST) | Posts 32+

If photos 1 and 3 were taken at the same time (which is unfortunately not visible),...
Then you need to shift the crankshaft pulley one tooth to the right relative to the timing belt, because you have reached the end of the elongated holes (while keeping the shafts themselves in their original position).

To do this, slightly loosen the three screws on the water pump pulley and only tighten them once the belt is properly tensioned.
It is important that the NW (Northwest) wheel can give way relative to the fixed shims during tensioning, so that the timing chain remains taut on the tension side (towards the water pump).

The elongated holes are actually only used for fine-tuning the valve timing.

BM wrote:

If photo 1 and photo 3 were taken at the same time (which is unfortunately not visible), Then you need to shift the crankshaft pulley one tooth to the right relative to the timing belt, because you have reached the end of the elongated holes (while keeping the shafts themselves in their original position). To do this, slightly loosen the three screws on the water pump pulley and only tighten them once the belt is properly tensioned. It is important that the NW (Northwest) wheel can give way relative to the fixed shims during tensioning, so that the timing chain remains taut on the tension side (towards the water pump). The elongated holes are actually only used for fine-tuning the valve timing.

First of all, thank you, thank you, thank you:


Yes, all the pictures were taken at the same time, and the car is parked exactly like that in the garage.

I did another one and pulled the pen out a little so you can see the long hole better.
Okay, I understand what you're talking about regarding the water pump side, and it makes sense to me.

What I don't understand is the "4Z" marking. Since the camshaft is fixed, I can't adjust the camshaft wheel in any other way that would align with that "4Z" marking.
Okay, I'm not quite sure what the meaning of "4Z" is in this context.
Since the OT (optical transfer function) is already determined by the fixing pin.

Quote:

What I don't understand is the 4Z marking. Since the camshaft is fixed, I can't adjust the camshaft wheel in any other way so that something aligns with the 4Z marking.

The "4Z" marking is only intended to roughly indicate the position of the ignition for cylinder 1, and nothing more.

If the NW (North West) is correctly aligned, the encoder disc is also securely fixed. This is then the correct position, even for the relatively insignificant 4Z marking. The NW gear has nothing to do with any of that.

So, you just need to make sure that when the timing marks are aligned, the NW (northwest) gear can rotate slightly on the NW shaft or on the NW sensor wheel during tensioning, so that the ZR (central roller) can also be properly tensioned. Once the belt is tensioned, tighten the screws again. That's pretty much it. It goes without saying that the long holes must not be allowed to reach the end.

After that, turn the engine by hand in the direction of rotation 2 or 4 times.
Just before reaching the mark on the wheel rim, slide the wheel stop into place and slowly continue turning until you can insert it into the hole.

And it is precisely in this position that the NW (Northwest) must be anchored. Then that works.

If it doesn't fit, loosen three screws on the northwest side, adjust, and repeat the alignment procedure until it fits.

Actually, the whole procedure can be completed in 5 minutes.

Next time, use a permanent marker to label everything that rotates.
Then, major mistakes are less likely to happen.

Also: Starting on page 3, a donation for the coffee fund is required .

Hi, I need to ask something. In the picture with the crankshaft pulley, it looks like the crankshaft pulley stop isn't making even contact with the crankshaft pulley gear. Are you sure you have the correct one? There are round and slightly oval timing pulley gears. Consequently, there are also different types of crankshaft pulley stops. To check this, you could take a look through the inspection hole in the transmission. Unfortunately, I don't know the difference, as I've always adjusted it using the viewfinder.

Oops, that photo looks really funny. Unfortunately, I can't tell whether it's correct or incorrect, or whether the photo is any good, due to my visual contrast deficiency.

In any case, it must slide precisely in the axial direction over the KW wheel.
If not, it's either wrong or cheap junk.

Ah, I just checked, and it turns out that only the correct size stopper will fit. If you use the wrong size, either it won't fit on at all, or there will be too much space between the stopper and the wheel. So, that's fine.
Why don't you look into the gearbox opening? To compare those, I'd be interested to see.

BM wrote:

Quote: What I don't understand is the 4Z marking. Since the camshaft is fixed, I can't adjust the camshaft wheel in any other way so that something aligns with the 4Z marking. The "4Z" marking is only intended to roughly indicate the position of the ignition for cylinder 1, and nothing more.

This is the answer I was waiting for. *yay!*
So, everything assembled, and what happened? Exactly, the battery is dead .
Then, after endless loading: it's running!!!!!
I've already looked at the first sets of measurements, and they look good. The power consumption while idling has been reduced from 1.2 liters per hour to 0.8 liters per hour, and it still managed to charge the battery.
I now have a twist angle of 0.5 degrees again, not 0.0.
And when it's warm, it now injects fuel at idle at approximately 0.3 degrees before top dead center.

Where is the donation account? *g*

Quote:

icon_lol.gif Where is the donation account? *g*

Thank Rainer, because he had the right instinct.

The zero-degree rotation angle misled me a bit. You were likely operating with timing that was very close to causing engine damage, which the electronics apparently didn't recognize (value outside the programmed plausibility range), and therefore registered sensor errors and assumed/simulated a value of zero.
Maybe the programmers were drunk again.

The "4Z" marking confused me the most. And, of course, you can't fix a stuck camshaft and adjust the "4Z" setting at the same time, so I was completely baffled.

Okay, now it's running, I still need to do a few test drives. I still have the impression that the turbo is now delivering its maximum torque only at 2200 RPM (previously around 1800 RPM), but I think it's more likely that the engine lost all the learned parameters due to the low battery voltage, and is therefore temporarily using some default values.
I've only driven 5 km so far. Let's see how it looks after 30 km.
But for now, it's running, and that's a good start.

Okay, then we can now conclude here.

Quote:

I've only driven 5 km so far. Let's see how it looks after 30 km.

Not in any other way